1987 Eldo Engine keeps dying,,HELP!!!!!!

[60eldo]

     Guys,,,I have a 1987 Eldo 4.1 was running great no problems but lately I turn the key it turns over well but wont start, then 30 min later it starts so I start driving and all of a sudden it stalls and wont start, then I go back an hour later and it starts,,I need this car to go to work, what can this be,,,,maybe fuel pump, maybe computer chip,,,any ideas please

[76eldo]

Ignition module and pickup in distributor is a great place to start looking.

Brian

[Dave Shepherd]

I would suggest checking spark at the plugs, if none, ignition problems as mentioned, if ok see if the injectors are spraying.

[TJ Hopland]

Ya fuel pump or ignition module.    Easy enough to check for fuel, just take the inlet snorkel thing off the top of the throttle body and look for fuel spraying from the injectors.   If you got fuel then its got to be a spark problem.  The intermittent nature sort of then points to the module.

[60eldo]

thanks,,,is igintion modual expensive and can I install it?  Its under cap?

[TJ Hopland]

My brain has not fully turned on yet this morning. We may have miss lead you slightly and need more testing.  I'm dont think this engine has a crank position sensor so the fuel trigger also comes from the distributor.  No fuel and no spark could mean the module.  No fuel but spark is likely fuel pump.  It is possible to have part of the module fail so you have the signal for the fuel but no spark but you could also have a bad coil or connection issues.  I remember on one of my 4100 cars had a upper radiator hose go and got the distributor all wet.  Was not a problem till about 6 months later when the corrosion had a chance to set in. 

When testing for spark on electronic oriented engines you should always use a spark tester or a spark plug, you never want to use a screwdriver and just let the spark jump.  Can cause spikes to wander into expensive electronic do dads.  Timing light is a good tool to use for this type of testing since we are not looking for a weak spark, we just want to know if its there.   Also connecting a tachometer to the tach terminal on the distributor cap will tell us if a signal is at least getting to the coil. 

Module is $8-$55 at Rockauto.   I would not trust the cheap ones.  Delphi is the $55.  Standard and Ac Delco $43.  Any of those 3 should be fine.

Yes you can replace it yourself.  Its under the rotor in the distributor.  Nothing too tricky about getting to it.  No marking things or messing with timing should be needed.   Just 4 screws holding the cap on and swing it out of the way with all the wires attached.  2 screws on the rotor, its keyed so it only fits on one way.   2 screws in the module and 3 connectors I believe.  There should be white goop under the module.  Clean the old stuff off the mounting surface.  Brake clean works good if I remember correctly.  New goop should come with the module and is required.  Its heat transfer grease.  Put it all back together and hopefully that does the trick.