Stored 10 Years - What Should I Plan for?

[salguod]

Hello.  You may remember my posting a while back about my Dad's '57 Biarritz.  Well, we're planning on getting it out of storage the weekend of 4/19-21.  The car has been in climate controlled storage for probably 10 years or more.  It was restored and in running condition not long prior to that.  It has been started a few times, but it's been years.

What should I plan on it needing?  Ideally, we'll get it running and we'll get it to his house where it can get some attention.  I'm a bit concerned about the brakes after sitting so long.  Should I plan on replacing the rubber lines just from age?  In my mind I'm thinking we'll head over there, tinker a bit and be off and running, but I know that's wishful thinking.  Besides, heading straight into traffic after sitting so long doesn't seem wide.  Since I've got a couple of weeks, I'm wondering if I ought to have some things on hand.

I seem to remember that Dad mentioned when it went into storage that there was an issue with the brake pedal not returning, but I'm not certain about that.  Is there a return spring that would be bad or would that indicate a leak in a brake line somewhere?

I'd love any tips you have.

Thanks,

[D.Yaros]

Depending on the distance from the storage site to wherever you plan on taking it, it might be wise to have it hauled on a flat bed?

What you may want/need to get her up and running would include a good battery, fresh gas, new spark plugs, oil, water and tranny fluid.  A large tank of compressed air to inflate the tires may also be necessary?

[Chris Conklin]

I'm with Dave on this one. You should haul it to where you can get it properly roadworthy. Especially knowing it had some brake issues when parked.

That non-returning pedal could be something simple like vacuum and the booster or could be master cylinder issues or a leak (as you mentioned). If not an obvious leak onto the floor, could be a leak or problem at the wheel cylinders. Aside from the external rubber bits, like the brake lines, there are some internal rubber bits that may surprise you with failure while your en route. The car really needs a few days work to put it on the road. Fluids, hoses, belts, plugs, condensor, etc. And once you get fresh fluid in it, get the engine turning and fluids circulating using the distributor shaft before firing it up. Has it been holding any gas in the tank for ten years? It likely became turpentine a few years ago.

I looked at your post on the modified forum too. You're a fortunate man to have these vehicles. Well... the Cadillac anyway... not sure about the others  . No matter how well the car was prepped for storage, ten years is a bit of time. The car will need some time and money. It's much like remodeling your house; It'll cost twice as much as planned and take twice as long.

[salguod]

The car is stored at the warehouse / garage of a family friend who has a small collection and a mechanic on site.  Dad isn't well equipped for doing anything major at his home, but I'll bring my tools.  It's only a few miles from the storage place to his house.

I'm not sure how fresh the gas is, my guess is not fresh at all and may be the same gas from 10 years ago.

When I got my T'bird it had sat a long time as well, but it had been started somewhat regularly.  We were able to start it and drive it on the trailer for the ride from to Columbus from Toledo.  I drove it a few times, foolishly, before finding myself at a light with the brake pedal on the floor.  Thankfully, the brakes weren't completely gone and I was only a mile from home.  That car likely still had all its original brake rubber, though, the Cadillac has been gone through maybe 15 years ago and driven sparingly and stored in climate controlled buildings since.

I'll see Dad this weekend, I'll talk to him about the things suggested. 

[76eldo]

I would drain the gas tank, and pull the wheels and drums after checking to see if there is pedal.

I'm reviving a 64 Coupe that was sitting for about 25 years.  The seller got it running but the car had no brakes at all.

Actual inspection shows good shoes, and only one rear brake cylinder is frozen.  We are replacing both rears.  Hoses and other cylinders are working well and all old brake fluid was bled out of the system.  Master cylinder was shot, and was replaced with a brand new Bendix brand from Rock auto.

Check your brakes and make needed repairs before driving the car.

I would drain the oil and gas, and check the trans fluid.

good luck,

Brian

[salguod]

I realized that I linked to the into post on the modified forum rather than the one here.  I corrected that.  The info is identical in each.  I'm still learning my way around the two. 

[Philippe M. Ruel]

- if the car sat for 10 years without moving at all, all 4 tires need to be replaced, whatever new they may look : the bottom part has "flattened", which will cause vibrations from 40-50 mph on.
- for brakes : you may keep rubber hoses if they were new when car was stored. Drain brake fluid, replace with alcohol. Bleed all 4 cylinders until alcohol that comes out is totally clear. Drain alcohol, replace with new fluid and re-bleed. When bleeding, apply as much pressure as you can on brake pedal : if it suddenly comes down, at least one cylinder (or MC) bore has been rusted by old fluid that has absorbed air moisture for all these years. You'll be sad you have to spend $$$ to haul the car, disassemble and replace many parts. But you'll be happy this didn't happen on the road - as it happens when you do need to brake.

If brakes are OK
- drain and change engine coolant.
- drain and change gas, including what may remain in lines and pump. Check whether it contains rust scales from tank.
- drain and change engine oil, start engine, let it heat, re-drain and change engine oil.
- check transmission fluid level and color. Drain and change if it is not bright red.

[salguod]

As I stated, the car had a mechanical and cosmetic restoration not long prior to being in storage.  The only thing not gone through was the interior, I believe.  I'm certain that brake lines and the like were fairly fresh when stored.  I'm sure the gas talk was either new or cleaned out well at that time too, so I don't expect rust in the tank.

Now that I think of it, it has been started at some point over the years.  Dad had the on site mechanic do some carb work on the car, I believe.

[Walter Youshock]

The brakes were never the greatest on '57's.  You should completely go over the system--new or rebuilt master and wheel cylinders and have the booster rebuilt.  Also the carb and fuel pump should be rebuilt and the rubber fuel lines/hoses replaced.  Gas was still gas ten years ago.  Ethanol will eventually ruin whatever old rubber is left in the fuel system.

[salguod]

Well, turns out I was mistaken.  It has been in this facility for about 10 years and it has not been driven in that time.  But, it has been started, as recently as 3 years ago.  It's also gotten a carb rebuild and a fuel pump in that time.

The restoration was in the mid 90's.  It was mostly body work and a bit mechanical & interior (new carpet & top).  Dad and I went through the records and did see receipts for new brakes including shoes, rebuilt or new wheel cylinders, front hoses and a new M/C, but not a rear hose.  Hard to imagine they'd do that much and not put a new hose (is there only one?) on the rear.  At any rate, that was 20 years ago, worth looking at closely before venturing out.

I'm feeling more confident in the state of the car now, hopefully we'll get it going and be able to drive it home. I'd like to see the hoses replaced anyway, just to be safe, we'll see what Dad wants to do.  If we order the parts now, we'd have them here for that weekend and ready to put in.  Shouldn't take too long.

[RyanBurman]

I would be a little less worried about hoses than the cylinders. If this car hasn't been driven in 10 years and the parts are 20 years old I really wouldn't trust them as that means that they were in use for a while before being stored. Go over the system carefully and drain the brake fluid. I know you really want to drive it but a little patience now will pay off big with a safe trip home later.

Rubber that has been inactive that long that was used before will harden and become likely to leak and crack if put back Into use. It will hold together enough to give you confidence to drive it then go out when you don't want it to. Lines are the same way. If it had a dual reservoir master in it you could possibly be ok but remember once you loose lose fluid with a single your done!

Be safe! Not sorry!   

[salguod]

Frankly I wouldn't be surprised if there hasn't been 500 miles put on the car since it was completed in the mid 90s.  It's not been driven regularly at all as long as I can remember.  We both want to get it back into some kind of regular, seasonal use to help preserve it.

So, is a rebuilt brake system that sees little to no use in 20 years more or less likely to me fine at this point?  I'm wondering if I should push to get a rebuild kit on order and just plan on redoing the brakes that first weekend.

[76eldo]

Does the pedal seem normal?  Pump it up and stand on it like you are doing a panic stop.  Do this a few times.

If you do a visual inspection of the brakes with the drums pulled and see no leaks, and the brake hoses do not look brittle or cracked, and you have a normal feeling pedal, you should be fine.  Bleeding the brakes and flushing out the old fluid is a good idea and if it looks cruddy or rusty you may have problems.  If it looks clean just bleed and give it a try.

I am working on a 64 Coupe that has been stored for over 20 years in a nice dry attached garage.  Brakes did not work at all.  We replaced the Master Cylinder and went on to bleed the system and push out any old fluid.  The right rear wheel cylinder will not bleed and is frozen, so we are replacing both rears.  These should always be done in pairs.

Shoes and drums look great, they will be left alone.  Hoses too.

Once you get the car started and running, drive it prudently for a while until you shake off the cobwebs.  Sounds like a GREAT car to be playing with.

Brian

[Walter Youshock]

I would not attempt to rebuild the booster.  Send it out and have it done.  The Hydrovac is a "wet" booster in that it, too, has fluid in it that stores moisture.  Get the Shop Manual.  There is a specific bleeding procedure just for the booster. 

The pedal doesn't really get that "normal" feeling as modern cars after pumping it with the car off.  There is also no vacuum tank on a '57 so once the vacuum is used up, the pedal won't feel like what you're used to.

[salguod]

Well, we tried to get the car this morning, no luck.  I guess the on site mechanic did get it to run, briefly, before we got there but it didn't run long or well.  He is going check the plugs, cap & rotor and the points and get back to us later today.

He also said that as he tried to move it when it did run a bit, and evidently did get it to move as it was forward 15 feet or so (from the spot it sat in for the last 14 years!), but there were no brakes.  I think a full brake rebuild is in our future, but one thing at a time, let's see if it'll run first.  Any tips on where to get parts?  When I did my T'bird, I got the brake rebuild kit from Kanter.

So, not nearly as smooth as we had hoped, but probably not to be unexpected for as little use as it has seen.  I took some pictures, maybe I'll post them later.

[RyanBurman]

I would use rockauto.com for the brake components. They get shipped to your door and you can get lots of quality brands. Sometimes they are more expensive than a parts store but some of that Kanter stuff is really cheap quality. If not you could at least use it to find the part #s of what you want.

[salguod]

So far, we've checked a bunch of online Caddy places plus Kanter and Kanter seems significantly cheaper.  We'll check Rock auto in the morning.

[52Cadillac]

Search for Otto' post a list of Cadillac vendors, and save it. Very extensive, and most likely you can find whatever you may need.
Mike

[David King (kz78hy)]

In your brake post, I provided the part numbers for NAPA where most of the stuff is available.    Those parts inexpensive.  The Delco shoes I bought from Rock Auto.  The booster kit source was the only one I could find if you want to just get the kit and not have someone else do it.

FYI to make things simple.

David

[dplotkin]

but some of that Kanter stuff is really cheap quality.

Do not buy their wheel bearings. I learned the hard way.

Dan