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1950 pinion seal Question

Started by curly, April 12, 2013, 04:05:09 PM

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curly

I need to replace the pinion seal in my 1950 Series 62 4 door. I have removed the yoke and checked out the pinion seal.  I have never seen one like this before and I cannot seem to find any replacements shaped the same.

1) Does this entire piece get replaced or is the seal with carrier I have read about ( on this board)
2) Does anyone have a part number or source for the seal.


Thanks
T Lewis

Jay Friedman

Olcar Bearing Co., Southern Pines NC has the seal.  910-693-3324.  Two kinds of seal were used, unrelated to year or model.  (The same differential was used on Cadillacs from 1941 to 1956.)   I couldn't figure out which one my '49 needed, so I bought one of each and returned the one I didn't use.  Let me know your email address and I'll send you an article on how to pre-load the bearing and other info.

Jay
1949 Cadillac 6107 Club Coupe
1932 Ford V8 Phaeton (restored, not a rod).  Sold
Decatur, Georgia
CLC # 3210, since 1984
"If it won't work, get a bigger hammer."

Caddy Wizard

The seal in your picture looks non-original.  But don't fret, get the original style and be done.  Measure the O.D. of the old seal (the metal housing that fits tight into the opening in the diff) and tell the seal supplier that size.  That way, you only need to order one seal...
Art Gardner


1955 S60 Fleetwood sedan (now under resto -- has been in paint shop since June 2022!)
1955 S62 Coupe (future show car? 2/3 done)
1958 Eldo Seville (2/3 done)

Dave T

 Curly, I noticed your post about your 1950 Cadillac rear pinion seal and I was very glad to have gotten a good photo of this seal  actually from what I have been told is that the seal that we are looking at is removable from the metal ring suroundig it. If you were to clean your seal up I think you will see where the seal fits into the metal ring. I searched hi and low for a cone shaped seal like what yours looks like with a 3 3/4 OD and 1 9/16 ID and was told about the metal ring and a smaller OD seal. Please let me know if the information the I am telling you is correct because I never had a seal to look at, Also I have been told that you have to be very carefull when removing your pinion seal that you don't damage that outer ring I had to manufacture a rear seal for my 1946 Cadillac. Please let me know what you find out about your seal, If need be I can send you photo of the seal that I had to make.
                                                Dave T CLC 22554
Dave Treuhaft
CLC # 22554

Bob Hoffmann CLC#96

Curly,
That is an ORIGINAL seal. I have one in the Cadillac box Group # 2.0684, P/N 3630051. It is all one piece. They had another seal used in some rear ends. There has been much discussion on this in the past. Do a search. No, mine is not for sale. Good luck.
Bob
1968 Eldorado slick top ,white/red interior
2015 Holden Ute HSV Maloo red/black interior.
             
Too much fun is more than you can have.

harry s

The outer cone can be removed by cleaning the mating surface with the cast housing thoroughly and using penetrating oil. Then you can use a punch and hammer and drive the inner seal out of the cone out of the way down the pinion shaft. Once you have done this use a small puller with the fingers (3 finger is best) outward and fit it into the opening of the cone and gently pull it out. If it doesn't want to come out use more penetrating oil of maybe a heat gun. Usually they will come out without any damage. You can then slide the smaller inner seal out and get the number or measurements for a new one. Install the inner seal into the cone and then that into the housing. Be sure to use a sealer arount the outer edges both pieces. Good Luck,   Harry
Harry Scott 4195
1941 6733
1948 6267X
2011 DTS Platinum

Bob Hoffmann CLC#96

Harry,
I took another look at my seal. You are correct, there are 2 pieces. The MPB is confusing. Are there some rear ends that don't have what you call a cone? Just a conventional  seal?
Bob
1968 Eldorado slick top ,white/red interior
2015 Holden Ute HSV Maloo red/black interior.
             
Too much fun is more than you can have.

curly

Thanks for the info, but it came a little late for me. :) I've already pulled the seal and carrier. I had done a search here and while I didn't find a thread on a 1950, I found several for late 40s. I followed the advice I read here and drilled a 3/16 hole in the carrier at 12 o'clock and used a slide hammer with a screw in the end of it to pull the seal. Came out on the first try. I cleaned it up and looked it over and figured that the seal came out the back, so I placed the carrier on wooden work bench and drove the seal out using a 3/4 drive socket and a plastic mallet.
A neighbor will Tig weld the hole shut and I was able to order a seal from USA parts--$20 plus shipping.
FYI- there were no part  numbers on either the seal or the carrier.
I also pulled the forward pinion bearing (came out easily) and looked it over, it looks to be in good shape so its going back in. The gear oil in there is some nasty stuff. 
So now I am playing the waiting game, cannot go forward with out the new seal.

I'll post a few pics of the parts soon.

Thanks
T Lewis

Bob Hoffmann CLC#96

Curly,
Glad to hear you're making progress. Let us know how it turns out.
Harry,
I answered my own question. It's group # 2.0864, P/N 1458709. One big seal. They should be interchangeable.
Bob
1968 Eldorado slick top ,white/red interior
2015 Holden Ute HSV Maloo red/black interior.
             
Too much fun is more than you can have.

curly

Updating this post.

I received the new seal from USA parts, they use their own number, the actual seal is a CR 18671.  I used a cross reference to see what it fits, and it comes back as pretty common transmission input seal.  The new seal is a single lip design, the original has 2 seals, but I don't think it was originally a lip type seal.
The new seal fits just fine.

Attached are some pics of the seal carrier, old and new seal, drive yolk.


T Lewis

MB49Caddy

Mine is leaking too on my '49. I just got under the car to take a look and can't tell exactly where the leak or leaks are coming from, but our local expert at the Classic Car Center says often the piece that is after the U-joints often wears unevenly through the years so even though Joe Cutler had it replaced (and he did) it may still leak. He said there is a seal that will ensure it doesn't leak, although he hasn't had his hands on my car yet. I will let you guys know when I deliver it to him next weekend what the result is, although it may be a few weeks because a few other people have pulled thier cars out of the garage to start driving them.... ;D

MB
"Sir, my concern is not whether God is on our side; my greatest concern is to be on God's side, for God is always right." - Abraham Lincoln