help removing dash 1946 62 series

[RussK]

I want to remove the dash on my 1946 62 series cadi, someone has painted it black and I want to go back original, and upgrade the wiring while I'm at it
thanks RussK

[Bill Ingler #7799]

Hi Russ: Removing the dash is not all that difficult, just takes time. The top of the dash is held to the bottom of the windshield frame by large sheet metal screws which are visible once you remove the garnish moldings from around the inside of the windshield. The picture below was taken as I was putting in the dash. On either end of the dash in the lower bottom front of the dash there will be bolt that holds the bottom end of the dash to each side pillar post.  The middle of the dash gets support from the brace from the steering column to the dash. Before you remove any of the above you need to remove or disconnect a few things from the dash. If you have a radio in your car it needs to come out.

Remove the radio knobs by unscrewing the small set screws on the side of the knobs and pull the knobs from the 2 radio stems. Now you will see a small stainless steel covers that are snapped in around the radio stems. Just gently pull those covers off and you will then see a thin nut holding the stems of the radio to the radio grill. Leave those nuts in place for the time being. Near the bottom right side of the radio you will see a stud from the side of the radio going through a brace with a 1/4 x20 nut on the end of that stud. Remove that nut. Now reach up near the middle of the right side of the radio near the top and you will find 3 vacuum hoses. The middle hose is the vacuum source for the antenna. The other two hoses control the vacuum for the up and down of the antenna. Pull off all 3 hoses. Reach up on the left back side of the radio near the top and pull out the antenna cable from the radio case. You then need to find and disconnect the two electrical connectors to the radio, one is the main wire from the ignition switch and the other supplies the light in the dial.

Before you remove the two thin nuts which are the only thing now holding the radio from coming out, understand how the radio comes out of the dash. The radio will go back until the radio stems clear the radio grill then you guide the back of the radio back and down. So before you start the radio out make sure you have clearance from cables which can either be the ones going to the defroster or the right air vent. The radio is HEAVY so be PREPARED. You might ask someone to hold the back of the radio up while you remove the stem nuts.

With the radio out you can remove all the rest of the electrical connections from gages and the dash. Removing the headlight switch is a must and makes it easier to remove the wiring from the switch. There are 3 pictures below which will help you in removing the switch. You first have to with one finger push down on the spring fastener in the switch which holds the end of the knob shaft, then with the other hand, pull the knob shaft out and unscrew the chrome switch retainer. Then you can push the switch back and pull down.

After you are satisfied that there is nothing holding that dash except what I have described above, now take out the bottom bolts and the top sheet metal screws. You might also find it easier when you get ready to install your newly finished dash to remove the steering wheel.  Have fun     Bill

[Raymond919]

Hello Bill,
Please excuse my intrusion, but will the instructions basically also work on a '49 dash?
Ray Schuman
# 26141

[Bill Ingler #7799]

Hi Ray: I wish I could say yes but I have had no experience with the 49. Maybe Jeff Maltby or J Friedman will see this posting and will answer your question.    Bill

[LeRoy DeVol]

Bill is correct on his instructions for removing the dash, but he left out a few things. You need to remove the wiring to the clock, remove the glove box door & the glove box, disconnect the 2 fresh air cables that go to the dampers in the engine compartment, & disconnect, the 2 cables to the heater & defroster. Instead of laying on your back to disconnect the wiring i would remove the speedometer, & 2 gauges from the dash by removing the 3 nuts that hold the bezels in place & that will make the dash easier & lighter to remove. There is 2 wires to the heater & defroster that will need to be removed as well as wires for lights. Also you will need to disconnect the ignition switch by removing the ring that holds it to the dash. Once the dash is removed it is much easier to deal with the wiring. You can also remove the center grill & control panel if you want to.

Lee DeVol     

[Bill Ingler #7799]

Lee: Thanks for completing the rest of the details in removing the dash. Never too many cooks in the kitchen when it comes to old cars.

Russ: You said you wanted to upgrade the wiring. If you decide to replace the engine/dash harness then you will find the socket connection between the dash harness and body harness located under the very top left part of dash, close to the left pillar post. Picture of this 2 piece socket below. As you can see this is a male/female socket. Very carefully pull the socket apart as it is easy to break away the old insulation around the wires. If you do not intend to replace the body harness then I would suggest that you cut off the part of the socket that is attached to the dash harness so that who every makes the new harness can work in the correct 1/2 socket. I also make it a point to cut off all the old light sockets and send those to the harness makers. I did not like the fit of some of the new re-pro sockets.   Bill

[RussK]

thanks to every one for there help, I got the dash removed and the only casualty where the defroster flex tubes.
now I can get it ready for paint and repair the wiring.
I'm going to change it from 6 volt to 12 volt and try to make it a daily driver
I was thinking about going back with a wood look, but after seeing that two tone dash I'm rethinking my plans

[LeRoy DeVol]

Russel; I am glad you where able to remove your dash without any problems . The ducts for your defroster are 2 ins. in diameter & you can buy them at any parts store. If your car is going to be judged in car shows, the wood grain dash is the way to go, but if this car is going to be a every day driver!! I would do a regular paint and chrome your window frames. I did this on my 47 cad. & it looks nicer then the wood grain design. The only problem is the wind wing riser is wood grain from the factory & you should have them chromed to match. To have the dash done in wood grain, the window frames, the panels under the widows, & the back of the seat  you will need to send them to someone that does this kind of work, pay $2,000.00 & pay for shipping. The down side of this type of job is finding someone that will do a good job and if you get any damage when shipping, or installing it will be a nightmare.   

Lee Devol

[RussK]

Thanks Lee , I have decided that since this car will be a driver, I'm forgoing the wood look. I was looking into transfer printing and doing it myself, I know the purist wouldn't  like it, but this car will never be a show car. the motor had already been changed before I got it , it was modified back in the fifty's with a 49 OHV 331. 
I'm going with a off white almond color for the dash, doors and seat back. I might even jazz it up a little but I do want it to look some what OE-ish if that makes cense 
I do want to thank you and every body else for their help
Russell

[RussK]

I decided the black from the pervious owner had to go, I thought about going with a oe wood grain but decided on this
I know its not original, but I like it