Author Topic: 75 Eldo Radiator removal  (Read 624 times)

Offline Jeff Wilk

  • J. Wilk CLC # 25630
  • Posts: 1324
  • The Past + The Future = My Heaven on Earth
  • Name: Jeff Wilk
75 Eldo Radiator removal
« on: May 25, 2013, 07:39:36 AM »
Any tips here to make this easier?  How hard is this to do?
"Impossible Only Describes The Degree Of Difficulty" 

Southern New Jersey

1959 Cadillac Fleetwood Sixty Special
1975 Eldorado Convertible (#12 made)
1976 Cadillac Mirage (factory authorized Pick-Up)
1933 Phaeton Chevrolet - "Baby Cadillac"
1933 Master Sedan Chevrolet - "Baby Cadillac"

SOLD
1958 Cadillac Sixty-Special
1958 Cadillac Sixty-Special
1958 Cadillac Sedan
1958 Cadillac Coupe Deville

Offline The Tassie Devil(le)

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  • Posts: 12388
  • CLC Number: 18992
  • Name: Bruce Reynolds
Re: 75 Eldo Radiator removal
« Reply #1 on: May 25, 2013, 09:00:52 AM »
Shouldn't be difficult at all.

Just undo the Fan Shroud and move it back as far as you can towards the engine, remove the Transmission Cooler Lines, and Radiator hoses, and Radiator Support Bolts, and lift it out.

Might have to juggle the shroud a bit to clear the bottom radiator hose fitting as it comes out.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

Offline 76eldo

  • Posts: 6648
  • CLC Number: 22443
  • Name: Brian Rachlin
Re: 75 Eldo Radiator removal
« Reply #2 on: May 25, 2013, 09:02:53 AM »
Jeff,

It's not really that hard at all.  You need to drain the rad unless you don't care about making a mess and just take off the lower hose.

Remove all of the bolts on the upper shroud, remove hoses, loosen and remove trans cooler connection using a proper wrench for flared fittings, and the radiator lifts right out.

Here's a link to show the wrenches:
http://www.powersportsplace.com/parts/shc-942012?seid=pspse1&gclid=CIOh2bunsbcCFUqZ4AodJFMAUQ

You need these to break the connection loose in order to avoid rounding off the corners of the hex fitting.  Also use to get the fitting really tight on re-installation.  Once you break it loose, you can use regular wrenches to spin the fittings out.

If there's another nut on the fitting, between the line fitting and the rad for some reason, you need to hold back the other nut so that you don't spin the whole line and kink it.

It's a big car and a big opening so access is plentiful.  I usually put the lower clamp on with the screw facing up and tighten with an extra long screw driver.  It's also a good time to flush everything out and replace the hoses if they are soft and mushy.  Summer heat is coming.

Good Luck,

Brian
Brian Rachlin
Huntingdon Valley, Pa
CLC # 22443
I prefer email's not PM's rachlin@comcast.net

1960 62 Series Conv with Factory Tri Power
1970 DeVille Conv
1970 Eldo
1970 Caribu (?) "The Cadmino"
1973 Eldorado Conv Pace Car
1976 Eldorado Conv
1980 Eldorado H & E Conv
1993 Allante with Hardtop (X2)
2008 DTS
2012 CTS Coupe
2017 XT
1956 Thunderbird
1966 Olds Toronado

 

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