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Couple of electrical and power window Questions on a 1967 Calais(more problems)

Started by RyanBurman, June 02, 2013, 11:56:44 PM

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RyanBurman

So I've got a few electrical gremlins and a few power window questions on my 1967 Calais. Ill start with the power windows. They all work but they all seem to stall out about halfway up either momentarily and they're fine or you have to help them sometimes? This wouldn't be a big deal but I'm an all 4 windows down kind of guy. It just makes the 2 door hardtop body look that much better. Do they need replaced or is there a way to service them? There is no grinding noise of any sort, but like I said it's like they just run out of juice about halfway up.

My next one has to do with my dash lights and my drivers side interior lights. None of them work. Passenger side and glove box work as does the radio and my idiot lights but no illumination lights for the speedometer or any of the courtesy lights on the drivers side? No blown fuses and the wiring seems ok?

Any help would be appreciated. I don't have a 67 shop manual yet but I do have one for 68.

Glen

On the windows I would pull the motors and re-grease the worm gears that will help a lot.  Also make sure all the other linkage is lubricated and the channels are clean. 

On the dash lights you may already know this; the first thing to check is the dimmer on the headlight switch.  Rotate the headlight knob full right to left and back again.  The rheostat can get dirty and the lights wont work. 


Glen Houlton CLC #727 
CLCMRC benefactor #104

RyanBurman

That was one of the first things I tried and there was no difference. Then it was onto the fuse which was also fine and they still didn't work even after I replaced it for good measure. That's when I noticed that the driver side courtesy lights don't work either. Radio works too. Basically the only things that don't work electrically are these, the turn signals flash but to keep them flashing you have to keep moving the lever, and my high beams don't come on. Gonna work on those and see if it's just in the terminals and wiring or if the bulbs themselves are bad.

Scot Minesinger

Buy the 1967 shop manual, I just got one on e-bay for $15.  It is well worth it.
Fairfax Station, VA  22039 (Washington DC Sub)
1970 Cadillac DeVille Convertible
1970 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1970 four door Convertible w/Cadillac Warranty

RyanBurman

Could the circuit board for the dash lights cause this if it were bad?

RyanBurman

Alright now the radio and dash lights work but now my headlights don't? Gonna check for corrosion in the connectors. Is this type of thing typical with a vehicle that has sat for 20+years. It's almost like the electrical system takes time to work again then other things just fail when they worked before?

RyanBurman

So I went for a couple mile drive today and after a couple miles The car started to run really rough then up and died at a stop sign. Tried to start it again and almost got it but the I was losing power and it started to crank hard. Then I tried again and got nothing. Looked around and realized there was nothing working at all. Got it back home and started checking around. I don't have a manual yet so I'm not completely sure if it's a ground strap or just some type of engine restraint strap but on the back of the drivers side head there is a braided strap that should have a connector going to the fire wall. Well it's broken off at the connector the fire wall and heavily corroded could this be a the root of my problem or something else? Starter solenoid? Regulator? I really need to teach myself how to use a volt meter for this one.

Dave Shepherd

Any ground or connection is important, start by checking the battery with a load tester then all the cables and connections. Fix that strap of course.  Post back results.

TJ Hopland

Im not positive how they were doing it in 67 but a few years later and into at lest the 80's the typical GM basic wiring layout was that the fat + battery wire went from the battery to the starter.  On the same lug was a single lug that then branched into 3 wires.  The first 18" inches or so of those wires were fusible link wires that then spliced to regular wires where they then joined the rest of the wring in the harnesses.  One of the wires went to the headlight switch.   One went to half of the fuse box for things that were always on.  The 3rd wire went to the ignition switch and then to the rest of the fuse box for the stuff that came on with the key.  Knowing that may help you figure out if its one of those three that may be having the issue.  There are also 2 more wires in that harness one from the key to spin the starter and another that goes to the ignition coil to give a little boost during starting.  On most engines including the 472 that harness is very close to and wraps around the exhaust pipe and or manifold not to mention being close to the ground so between the crud and heat and adding some age its a great place for issues especially if the starter has ever been replaced and someone did not get all the shields and routing back correctly.  The splice from the link wire to the regular wire can also be a problem spot with some age.
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason