Want to convert 1959 single master cylinder to dual.

[Bill Caddyshack]

I had total brake failure in a 1962 Chrysler. It had a single master cylinder and one flexible brake line failed. I was fortunate, BUT

I would like to convert my 1959 Series 62 convertible to a dual system. I don't care about going to front disk brakes, just the master cylinder and I want it to look as authentic as possible.

This looks best to me
http://www.photopaige.com/edscars/60caddy/CaddyWebSitev2_files/NewBrakes.htm
The writer suggested using a 1968 all drums MC/Booster. At Autozone, it was about $100. But AutoZone, Advance Auto, O'Reily do not carry these anymore, saying they have been phased out by the vendor, which appears to be A1 Cardone.

Here is another option, but this unit looks very long and out of place. It is also over 5 times as expensive. I have also read that I will need to reposition my cruise control.
http://www.caddydaddy.com/1959-1960-Cadillac-Power-Brake-Conversion-Booster-Master-Cylinder-p5278.html

Cost $556.97

Would the Cardone 50-1117 be the best choice? Are there others that would fit?

[Dave Shepherd]

If you have a Moraine booster this will not work replacing just the master as they are more of a unit type setup and cannot be adapted this way, I worked on one in my shop 2 years ago when I rebuilt the booster.  The method posted on your first link looks like the best way to go.  I do not think you can just bolt that m/c to your booster. With the Moraine the m/c piston is part of the booster, with the Bendix it is a normal seperate m/c.  Check the listings on Rockauto you will see in the pics the difference. Anyway maybe you can find a used 68 booster and it is easy to get a new master for a 68. Of course if you have a Bendix you may be able to adapt a 68 master to it.

[Jeff Wilk]

Just did it on my 59. SIMPLE!!!  New dual master bolts directly to original booster. You plug one port on the original junction on the framerail which was used for the rear line. Run a new rear line or add an extension to the existing rear line so it attaches directly to the new dual master. Attach the front line feom the junction block to the dual master. Bleed it. DONE.

Call Midwest Power Booster directly and cut out the middleman. Guys are great. 

Hope this helps

Jeff & Noah

[Dave Shepherd]

Just did it on my 59. SIMPLE!!!  New dual master bolts directly to original booster. You plug one port on the original junction on the framerail which was used for the rear line. Run a new rear line or add an extension to the existing rear line so it attaches directly to the new dual master. Attach the front line feom the junction block to the dual master. Bleed it. DONE.

Call Midwest Power Booster directly and cut out the middleman. Guys are great. 

Hope this helps

Jeff & Noah 

Jeff which booster did you have Bendix or Moraine?

[Jeff Wilk]

Dave, here is a picture.....

[Bill Caddyshack]

Was not quite clear on this. My booster is failing and I thought to replace booster and MC at the same time. Is there someone who sells both as a unit?

[Jeff Wilk]

Bill

Same guys at Midwest booster. Send them your core to rebuild the booster and they will do the dual cylinder as well.

[Bill Caddyshack]

Bill

Same guys at Midwest booster. Send them your core to rebuild the booster and they will do the dual cylinder as well.

I have talked with Rich. Very knowledgeable. He says that a booster usually fails because the rear seal on the MC leaks, allowing brake fluid to enter the booster and eats it up. Suggested that if I am not losing fluid, that the problem may be in the vacuum lines. The hose between the "T" and the booster looks original, kinda like an alligator. Gonna crank the car up on my lift and have a look at the line going to the vac tank. Maybe this is my main problem and I can just change the hoses.

I would like to have a dual MC, but I do have a clearance problem with the cruise control. Not sure how to move it forward and still have it work! Right now it is about 1 1/2" from the master cylinder.

The line in the picture that looks like it is coming from the cruise control is really from the master cylinder.

Can anyone tell me if I have a Bendix or Moraine? Rich says that the Moraine can't be upgraded to dual MC and if he rebuilds or trades me one of his, he will only trade a Moraine (rebuilt) for a Moraine core -- and a Bendix for a Bendix.

[Jeff Wilk]

Bill, yours is same bendix as mine. I also have Cruise. Look at my picture closely and you will see that although clearance is VERY tight it does fit by ever so slightly rounding one edge of the dual cover.

Jeff

[Dave Shepherd]

Correct the Moraine cannot be done as I pointed out above because of it's intergral design with the master, Jeff yor master is a Bendix, nice job BTW. Bill relocating the cruise is an issue as the cables cannot be " stretched" of course.  Careful with moving forward with this. On the car I worked on the Moraine was goldish anodized. Bendix is black.

[Bill Caddyshack]

Bill, yours is same bendix as mine. I also have Cruise. Look at my picture closely and you will see that although clearance is VERY tight it does fit by ever so slightly rounding one edge of the dual cover.

Jeff

Thanks for pointing that out, whew! Glad I don't have to try to remount the cruise control.

Did you have to send your booster to Midwest to have it rebuilt? Or will they send you one and you send yours back. The reason I ask is because that could take a while and I am enjoying the car though the brakes require more foot pressure, they are stopping.

If I could just swap in a rebuilt one, I would not be down for a long time.

If I could find the A1 Cardone 50-1117, that would be perfect. Street price on these is around $100, but, though many of the local auto parts places show them in their catalogs, they are out and having trouble getting more.

Midwest wants $180 for the booster and $95 for the master cylinder. 

[Jeff Wilk]

They will do either if they have the bendix in stock but there will be a hefty core charge until they get yours back. On mine the MC seal blew and the PB got filled with fluid and stopped working.

[Bill Caddyshack]

Got lucky! As I was about to order a booster from Midwest Power or Dewey Booster, Summit called and told me the Cardone remanufactured booster/dual MC just became available. Got it in my hands right now!

$111. Part number 50-1117, for a 1968 Cadillac DeVille drum brakes. With a few small mods it will fit fine on my 1959 Cadillac DeVille Convertible.


Here is the setup I am following,
http://www.photopaige.com/edscars/60caddy/CaddyWebSitev2_files/NewBrakes.htm

I will keep you all advised about my progress in the hope that it will help others who want to got dual mc on a 59-60 Cadillac.

Here are my pictures of the Booster/dual mc I just got.




 

[curly]

I'll be watching, I want to convert my 59 as well.

T Lewis

[Blade]

With a few small mods it will fit fine on my 1959 Cadillac DeVille Convertible.

'59 DeVille convertible? Something new in my book!   

Bill: I also went with the '68 booster and master cylinder. I haven't done the conversion yet but I already got the booster and the master cylinder, the booster was a bit hard to find but a couple of weeks of search did turn one up finally. Just make sure it's for drum/drum breaks as the '68s also came with front disk breaks.

I paid about $150 for both the master cylinder and the booster together, they are both refurbished by A-1 Cardone.

[Bill Caddyshack]

'59 DeVille convertible? Something new in my book!   

Perhaps it is! Have a gander at these, 
http://www.dupontregistry.com/autos/search/DRauSearchDetails.aspx?itemid=1188666 

http://clients.automanager.com/013639/vehicle-details/0a3d51afd1684c929553a8e87eb263ea/1959+cadillac+deville+convertible+2-door+convertible.html 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-ozSkQ1xIM 

Here is one that is both a series 62 AND a DeVille Convertible!
http://www.tedvernon.com/Cadillac/1959-Cadillac-Series-6-2-coupe-Deville-Convertible-229TV.asp     

And SOME people are still calling it a "Series 62"!!       When we all know that it was really a "Series 6200!!"           
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadillac_de_Ville_series

I think that someone snuck in a couple of those low end Buy-ritzies and a couple of hardtop Coupe DeVilles, and a Series 62 or so, but most of them are . . . . drum roll . . . . 1959 Cadillac DeVille Convertibles!
https://www.google.com/search?q=1959+cadillac+coupe+deville+convertible&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS532US532&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=4qTrUd_XFZHA9QS614DgAw&ved=0CC0QsAQ&biw=1152&bih=650

So, Blade, what the hell, let's call it whatever we like! If you want to be absolutely sure, call it a "Series 62, 6200, DeVille convertible" and ya can have all ya bases covered.

I'm calling mine a DeVille Convertible! Whoopee and Wheeee. Who really cares?        

All in fun, man, all in fun.

[INTMD8]

Thanks for the info. Now if I could only find #50-1117 anywhere.

[Bill Caddyshack]

Thanks for the info. Now if I could only find #50-1117 anywhere.

I just got mine from Summit Racing. At first they said they didn't have it, but it came in the mail.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-50-1117


The picture in their ad is different from the unit I got. There is an additional core charge of $10, which I paid. I want to keep the original unit in case one day I decide to sell the car and the buyer might want it.

Hope this works out for you.

[For Sale]

Dave, here is a picture.....

Do you happen to know what year this master cylinder is from or possibly  a part number?