Not starting after running perfectly?

[Cooke]

I took the 38, 60S out for a 60mile drive this morning and it ran perfectly as usual. I then went out to the driveway to move the car into the garage it started but ran a little ruff, stumbled but I got it into the garage. I could get it to run at a high rpm and then it would idle but very lumpy, if you tried to rev it it would stumble then rev and break up. I shut the car off and tried to restart, nothing, the engine turns over but will not run. I can see gas in the fuel bowl and when I push the accelerator I can see gas being squirted into the carb. I tried starting fluid, it made no difference. I changed the coil to an older one but known to work fine, nothing, points look good rotor was a bit black at the end cleaned that up, nothing. The plugs do not look wet which seems strange.

This is a car that ALWAYS starts, hot, cold, always starts and runs great. Any ideas?

[dplotkin]

Confirm spark at coil tower, and again at one or more plugs. If OK sounds like the needle & seat may be hanging up or the idle circuit is plugged.

Dan

[Cooke]

Just checked, not spark at the plugs.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Check for spark at the coil post, that is by putting a spark Plug in the end of the coil lead, and ground the plug.

If nothing there, then time for a really new coil.

But, check for voltage at the ignition side of the coil.   If no voltage there, then the coil is not the problem.

Sometimes, electrical problems are the worst to trace, and fix.   That is why Auto Electricians get paid so much more.

Bruce.

[joeceretti]

Sounds electrical to me too.

[Richardonly]

Sounds like the primary ignition system.  That would be points, condensor, cap & rotor, plus your coil.

If the problem persists, the timing chain/gear may have jumped.

[harvey b]

Did you check the choke,my 37 does the same thing sometimes,seems the choke is sticking open?,has the original electric choke and seems to lock open,then is hard to start when hot.I have to manually flip it closed and then it will fire up,strange I know but that is what ails mine.Might be worth a look. Harvey

[Cooke]

I put the old condenser back in this morning and it started up perfect. About a month or so ago I put new points condenser etc. figuring why not, seems the new condensers are not so good. Any source for good condensers??
We took it for a 75 mile fall tour today with no problems, I had no idea a condenser could bring the engine to a complete stop.

[TJ Hopland]

Standard Ignition is the only brand of points related stuff that has not let me down recently.  A lot of what is out there now seems to be junk even some of the formerly good names.

[Two Crabs]

Just got done with the same problem on my 73.
Three sets of burnt points later, I found the problem to be a bad points condenser which was installed new, three Points sets ago.
It is the one I bought from Rock Auto for a couple of dollars.

[gary griffin]

It kind of makes electronic ignition seem  more attractive every time our old systems fail.

[Scot Minesinger]

Tried to Google "Standard Ignition" and came up empty.  Any further identification would be helpful, city where it is made or something?  Thanks looking for a good source of points/condenser.

[harry s]

I tlhink the full name is Standard Blue Streak.  Comes in a blue box and I agree with TJ as to their quality.     Harry

[TJ Hopland]

Their current name appears to be SMP Standard Motor Products.  The last ones I bought was in a red box vs. the black and blue Blue Streak box.  It still says Blue Streak on it.   Blue Streak used to be their premium line.   I think one time I bought 2 sets of points at the same time and one came in the red and one in blue box.  Both appeared to be identical parts.

Their online catalog only goes back to 1942, not sure if that is the same as your 38 or not.

http://www.standardbrand.com/online%20catalogs-ecatalog/content.aspx

If the link does not work for a 42 they list:

points DR2437P
condenser DR60

Many parts stores can get them.
Summit Racing seems to usually have stuff like this.
Rock Auto lists em if you search those part numbers and also a ton of cross reference part numbers.

condenser lists these part numbers:
#12338664, 1837963, 1855968, 1860720, 1861709, 1865972, 1866049, 1869704, 1869705, 1874752, 1882239, 19106636, 1921254, 225739, 3073003R91, 3204584, 3204585, 3272630A, 496731C1, 55528, 55927, 5M4306, 638828, 717920, 813231, 821156, 829107, 829111, 829533, AT14468, D200, D201, D203, E252, GSC107, J717920

points:
#1871865, 1881467, 1882025, 19110385, 1916636, 1924499, 1938340, 1938346, 1963527, 89056788, D104, D104H, D104P, DPG209, DPX209

[Richardonly]

It was a good idea to retain the old electrical parts that worked when you put the new ones in.  You KNOW that they worked.

I always take my old ones with me in the trunk pretty much forever.  You never know when they might be needed.

Regards, Richard

[joeceretti]

It was a good idea to retain the old electrical parts that worked when you put the new ones in.  You KNOW that they worked.

I always take my old ones with me in the trunk pretty much forever.  You never know when they might be needed.

Regards, Richard

This is such good advice it should almost be on a sticky.

[Richardonly]

Thank you Joe.  Very kind words.

Richard