News:

Reminder to CLC members, please make sure that your CLC number is stored in the relevant field in your forum profile. This is important for the upcoming change to the Forums access, More information can be found at the top of the General Discussion forum. To view or edit your profile details, click on your username, at the top of any forum page. Your username only appears when you are signed in.

Main Menu

Need A Transmission

Started by Aprules2, March 06, 2014, 05:39:38 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Aprules2

So I stopped at the bank to cash my check after work today, I put the car in park and then when I put it in drive it felt like it was only half engaged and rolled. Accelerating made no difference it revved like it was in neutral. It will only move in low or 2nd and when it does it barely goes, almost like when you have very low trans fluid and there is a vibration. I checked The trans fluid and its burnt and has like zero viscosity left. I checked a few local shops they want 15-1800 to rebuild a Th400. Besides the fact that I don't have the money and need the car, its basically half the value of my car on a good day. Can anyone recommend a trans shop that has reasonable prices or does anyone have a good trans they want to sell? I had a long tail from an Olds 88 but it turns out its almost 3 inches shorter. I could really use the help if anyone has one. Im in New Jersey but will borrow my dads car to go anywhere in the tristate area.

Scot Minesinger

Check your turbo hydromatic modulator-that is $13 at NAPA.  If it fails trans acts as you describe.  Change the fluid too, that is inexpensive too.  maybe that might get you going for a while and you can save for a trans re-build.

Where are you located so CLC members can recommend a trans shop.  We are in DC metro area and there is a great shop "County Transmissions" in Vienna, VA that will re-build it for $600 if you bring it to them, if it is in the car then $1,200. 

Good luck!
Fairfax Station, VA  22039 (Washington DC Sub)
1970 Cadillac DeVille Convertible
1970 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1970 four door Convertible w/Cadillac Warranty

Aprules2

I am in New Jersey. I tried doing a flush 2000 miles ago and the trans felt great, then today it gave up unfortunately....

txturbo

I don't recommend flushing a transmission that hasn't been messed with for a long time. Usually you end up in the situation you are in right now. Drop the pan....you may just have a clogged filter. But if the filter is clogged and the fluid is burnt it's to late to save it but it may get it moving again.
D. Roden
1956 Coupe De Ville PINK
1963 Cadillac Sedan De Ville

mgbeda

When it was flushed was the filter changed?  Seems like the oil change places won't change the filter anymore, and that's the most important part.  They just change the fluid using a suction hose down the dipstick.  You might get it going again with a new filter.

Too late now for this advice, but for others... If the tranny starts to slip DON'T REV IT.

Try junkyards for a good used transmission.

I thought that BOP TH400s would fit a Caddy if you changed the tailpiece, but I never tried it.  Anyone know more about this?

-mB
-Mike Beda
CLC #24610
1976 Sedan DeVille (Bessie)

Aprules2

I compared it with the olds and the tail shaft is shorter and changing it isnt enough because the output shaft would be too short.

Flushing it was the only thing I could do to revive it otherwise I was going for a trans that day. I am looking at it like this Im fortunate I got an extra 2000 miles out of it.......

bcroe

Quote from: mgbeda
Too late now for this advice, but for others... If the tranny starts to slip DON'T REV IT.

I thought that BOP TH400s would fit a Caddy if you changed the tailpiece, but I never
tried it.  Anyone know more about this?  -mB 

The 400 came with 3 different length tailpieces.  They came with a matching length
output shaft.  The tailpiece is easily swapped, but the trans case must be completely
stripped to change the shaft.  There are a few other variations, O ring output shaft,
extra wire for switch pitch or emissions, some had no speedo output, and few have the
6 friction plate direct clutch used in the biggest Cads.  Bruce Roe

beastly beauties

Like others have posted here, drop the pan, change the filter, and replace the modulator. The symptoms you are describing I have experienced many times before, and have usually turned out to be a combination of the above remedies. I was not always that lucky but that is the least expensive and doesn't sound like it was preformed before. Flushing a transmission just seems to be another way for a quick dollar these days. I believe you can redistribute dirty fluid into places that can result in more harm than good. My thought is that you are essentially pulling the fluid backwards and purging the filter of the debris it was designed to isolate. I have had success with a proper service preformed by myself with the simple items above, especially the early Mopars that had very fine filters that would clog on a normal basis. But the advantage with those transmissions was that you could drain 12 quarts of fluid by removing the drain plug in the torque converter. I am under the assumption that the GM's are only dumping 6 quarts, leaving half of the contaminated fluid still in the transmission. I would then do another service depending on how bad the fluid looked the first time and how well the transmission responded to it. It can't hurt to give it a shot.     Good Luck,    David Symonds

Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373

I agree with not flushing them. 
Newer vehicles here but I did a flush on our older van a few years ago.  It never ran right since.  We have a couple of Hondas now and the dealer says don't flush it. The service guy says it is even stated in their shop manuals in capital letters DO NOT FLUSH TRANSMISSION. 
Good Luck,
Jeff
Jeff Rosansky
CLC #28373
1970 Coupe DeVille (Big Red)
1955 Series 62 (Baby Blue)
Dad's new 1979 Coupe DeVille