News:

Reminder to CLC members, please make sure that your CLC number is stored in the relevant field in your forum profile. This is important for the upcoming change to the Forums access, More information can be found at the top of the General Discussion forum. To view or edit your profile details, click on your username, at the top of any forum page. Your username only appears when you are signed in.

Main Menu

Removing power steering hoses from a 1962 CDV...

Started by Edward Kenny, June 01, 2014, 12:19:25 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Edward Kenny

I'm trying to change my leaky power steering hoses in my '62, but have found access and leverage to the fittings at the power steering box to be almost nil. I've tried the ATF/acetone 50/50 solution on these fittings as well with a 5/8 open ended wrench through the wheel well with no luck. Am I missing something here? What must I do to get good access and leverage on these fittings in order to get them loose?

Thanks in advance for the due diligence.

Scot Minesinger

Since you are going to replace the hoses anyway, what many mechanics do is cut the hose close to the compression nut fitting, use a tubing cutter (don't want shavings to drop in fluid) - they sell them real inexpensively for tight quarters use at HD and other home improvement stores.  Then you can get a six sided socket on them and loosen the most stubborn compression fittings with relative ease.  The open ended wrenches often spread and strip the nut.

If you must save the hose, what you need is an open ended wrench that will not spread - and you can easily make one:  Buy a six sided long impact socket for the size nut you need (usually with 1/2" drive guaranteed for life).  Grind a slot on one side parallel to long dimension about 1/2" clear so that it will slip over a power steering line.  This is a much stronger wrench than a typical open one.  Then slide it over the fluid line and install a worm gear clamp around it at the nut and tighten very well-this further insures it will not spread.  Get a small pipe wrench which will grab the slotted socket over the nut.  Be careful that the wrench does not open the slot up further by positioning it correctly.  Then it only takes like an 1/8 of a turn to loosen the nut and then any open wrench can finish the job.  Access with a pipe wrench will be the biggest challenge here. 

Sometimes a real good crow foot wrench (with 1/2" drive) works well too and is a little easier to deal with than the make your own thing described above.
Fairfax Station, VA  22039 (Washington DC Sub)
1970 Cadillac DeVille Convertible
1970 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1970 four door Convertible w/Cadillac Warranty

35-709

Yes, I would go with a crow's foot, or a "b" nut wrench (tubing wrench) if you have the access.
1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

txturbo

I usually use a tubing/line wrench and a pry bar.
D. Roden
1956 Coupe De Ville PINK
1963 Cadillac Sedan De Ville

Joe Manna

Ed,
Was reading your dilemma.What I used to change the hose on my 63,a stubby 5/8 wrench on the pump fitting and went to Sears and bought a set of crows foot wrenches. The steering box end is an 11/16.A 3/8 ratchet with a long extension and it came right off.
Joe
1951 Chevrolet Bel-Air-50's Style Custom
1963 Cadillac 4 Window Sedan deVille
1991 Cadillac DW69 Brougham,All original and used daily
2015 Cadillac SRX