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Power Windows 1948 Convertible

Started by 48ragtop, June 13, 2014, 10:33:14 PM

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48ragtop

My car:   1948 Series 62 Convertible

Recently I had some work done on my car.   This included a complete new wiring harness (from Rhode Island Wiring Service Inc) as well as new hydraulics (from Hydro-E -Lectric).   After the work was done the two rear windows exhibited some difficulty with downward operation.    The thought was that this might be due to weak springs or other worn parts within the window mechanism.    However, after a drive of approximately 50 miles, with the driver’s side front window in the down position, I was unable to operate any of the windows.   Not up, not down, nothing happening when the switches were pushed.   Any ideas or opinions appreciated.

Thanks,

Ed Wisniewski
CLC No. 26482
Edward M. Wisniewski, CLC #26482
1948 Cadillac Series 62 Convertible
1957 Chevy Belair Convertible
1982 AMC Eagle SX/4
2007 Chrysler Crossfire

Philippe M. Ruel

#1
Can you hear a whining sound from the hydraulic pump when any switch is in UP position ?
DOWN position of each switch only actuates the valve solenoid of the concerned window, it seems dubious that all 4 solenoids are defective. Which brings us to an electric rather than hydraulic issue.

This part of the electrical circuit is protected by a circuit breaker (25 Amps, located next to the hydraulic pump - on firewall right side on my '52).

(1) it is defective
(2) it works well and there is a short somewhere (wiring, pump)
(3) it works well and there is some stress on the mechanical movement of (at least) one window glass.
In cases (2) and (3), it should be re-working after a few moments
(4) it has been replaced by a fuse.
1952 60 Special in France.

Richardonly

Morning,

I would start with one window and see if there is power to the switch.  I believe the power line on the switch is the center, but they are clearly marked when pulled away from the door.  I used a test light which looks like an ice pick with a light on top of it, and a ground wire with an aligator clip.  If there is juice, it will light up.

If the juice is there, the next place to check would be at the cylinder, IN the door.

It's odd nothing works and you did not mention if your top works.

Which leads me to thinking that perhaps the fluid level is low in your hydro-lectric system.  It's a total pain and messy as it's mounted on the firewall and the fluid containing canister is held in place with a wire clamp.  ( About a 5 minute job, AND check to see that the gasket is properly in place.)  If new cylinders were installed, this would have had to be opened to put lost fluid in.

There is a procedure that all windows, seat and top MUST be in the down(?) position before fully topping off.  CHECK THIS!!!  It is NOT under preasure so no harm will be done in checking the level.

Lastly, there are many questions and answers on the forum about this issue.  Top right of THIS screen, type in hydro-electric and hit search button.

If you know Joe Cutler, he would know the answers.  He is extremely knowlegeable about this system.

Good luck, Richard
1948 Cadillac Fleetwood 60S
1995 Lincoln Towncar, Signature Series
1995 Jaguar XJ6
2001 Chrysler Sebring Convertible
1986 Yamaha 700 Maxim X motorcycle

Richardonly

Looked it up and all windows are to be down, seat back and roof down, then top off fluid.

If it was filled to the top NOT in this position, the windows will not go down as there is nowhere for the fluid to escape to. (In other words, with everything UP, the fluid should NOT be full.)

If this is the case, remove cannister, dump.

Reinstall.

lower all windows, seat back and top down.

Remove cannister again and fill to top.

Reinstall
1948 Cadillac Fleetwood 60S
1995 Lincoln Towncar, Signature Series
1995 Jaguar XJ6
2001 Chrysler Sebring Convertible
1986 Yamaha 700 Maxim X motorcycle

48ragtop

Thank you all for your assistance.    Still checking and investigating.   

System has been properly filled, no fluid leaks, motor whines in UP position.   Circuit breaker at pump checked and is working fine.  Solenoid clicks on so that seems to be working fine.   

Any other ideas appreciated.

Thanks,

Ed Wisniewski
CLC No. 26482
Edward M. Wisniewski, CLC #26482
1948 Cadillac Series 62 Convertible
1957 Chevy Belair Convertible
1982 AMC Eagle SX/4
2007 Chrysler Crossfire

Richardonly

Ed,

Did you check the many ideas and solutions on the forum as I had previously suggested?

From what you wrote, there IS power to the selonoid and I "assume" the level is correct.  In my opinion, and I am no expert, there may be crud in the intake line and output line.  Since none work, I would think it would be closest to the container, IF THEY WORKED BEFORE.

Another question is what was it filled with after the work?  Originally, it was brake fluid.  Many have been converted to ATF.  Was it mixed???

You never mentioned if they worked before the recent (rear window) repairs were done.  What about top and seat?

Installing new window hydralics leads me to think they didn't.  If that is the case, then there could be a whole different solution.  As mentioned, brake fluid was the original fluid used.  If they have sat for years, the fluid may become solid or as least sludgy.  Remove front seat, SLOWLY losen the hydralic line (try one fitting) and see if they begin to leak.  (You may have to run a piece of wire in tubing to see what comes out IF there is no fluid.) If not, they are probably solid.

THIS IS WHAT I WOULD DO.  I AM NOT telling you to do this without checking a bit further.

This would be a test, not a solution.

Best of luck, Richard
1948 Cadillac Fleetwood 60S
1995 Lincoln Towncar, Signature Series
1995 Jaguar XJ6
2001 Chrysler Sebring Convertible
1986 Yamaha 700 Maxim X motorcycle

gary griffin


Ed,

   What are the "New Hydraulics" you mention?  Did you flush out the system and install clean fluid? A system like yours that uses fluid to create work is probably vented or you would have both pressure and return lines to each device. Even then there would have to be a way to compensate for various fluid volumes as expansion and contraction due to temperatures change occurs. My point is that is if there is no expansion tank it is a vented system and moist air is continually being introduced.  My guess is that 68 years of contaminated fluid has caused deterioration in the system and all of the rubber hoses need replacing or at least checked out for flow.  If you have to replace the tubing try to use stainless steel as much as possible to prevent future problems and 68 years from now someone will be very appreciative.  Have you considered conversion to an electrical system?   When you get it working remember to flush it and change the fluid on a regular basis depending on usage and average humidity in your area. If there is no strainer in the system installing one would be a good idea also. 
Gary Griffin

1940 LaSalle 5029 4 door convertible sedan
1942 Cadillac 6719 restoration almost complete?
1957 Cadillac 60-special (Needs a little TLC)
2013 Cadillac XTS daily driver