65 Eldorado tamo wood restoration

[Chuck Swanson]

Hi All,

Looking for some tips please on restoring the Tamo wood in my 65.  It' a veneer, original has a foil like backing.  I have found a number of sources of the Tamo wood.   Question is how to apply/glue and how to finish.  I see some restored 65's have a light color, maybe just a gloss finish, but my wood looks darker.  Did Cadillac really stain the Tamo wood, or just put a gloss on it?  I have also seen some pictures with a silver border on the wood, around 1 inch or so in the panel.  Not sure what that is, as my original wood has no such silver border.  Looks like the catalog shows the Eldorado with the thin stripe, but not the Fleetwood.  Oh, saw Ralphs long thread from 2012 on the 66 wood, but that is walnut veneer Maybe some tips will still apply?  Just need to do the doors and rear as rest is OK on dash. 
Thanks!

[Ralph Messina CLC 4937]

Chaz,

If you post pics of the good dash pieces and the door panels you’d like to improve, I’ll try to assess the condition and suggest some things you can do. You can get an idea of what the wood is from this site: http://www.veneersupplies.com/categories/Veneer__Products/Wood__Veneer__M__-__Z/Tamo__Ash/   The natural color is crème white like ash, so it was definitely stained and most likely finished with a catalyzed lacquer. The Eldorado did have a metallic inlay simulating what was done on fine antique furniture. It’s the stain that brings out the iridescence and figuring in the wood’s grain, not the gloss finish coat. Matching the stain color, a medium to darkish brown, that’s the hard part. To get close, it will likely take some trial and error mixing your own color and testing on some scrap ash.

HTH,
Ralph

[Chuck Swanson]

HI Ralph,

Thanks for the info!  I actually contacted Joe at that site a few days before the initial post.  Looks like they have the wood, but Joe not sure how to glue to the metal on the door panel.   I need all new wood on all of the door panels and rear ones.  2 are missing, and the rest are almost all peeled off.  I mentioned to Joe the factory used metal tape, double sided, like you would use for duct work, that thickness, but he has nothing like that.   

The dashboard ones are all fine.  Great info on the stain!  Not sure yet though if I want to tackle the metallic inlay on the wood.  Any ideas on replicating that part?  Thx, Chuck

[Ralph Messina CLC 4937]

Chuck,

The pics were too big for me to view . Scrolling over them, I agree the wood is beyond repair. I also suspect they have been restored/replaced previously as there is no metal inlay.

I’d start  from scratch using the metal as a template. I would bond a very thin (1/8”) plywood to the metal then apply the Tamo veneer to the plywood. Try Constantine’s in Miami for the plywood and use a hot melt glue to bond it to the metal. I’d locate a custom cabinet or furniture maker in your area and see whether he has a vacuum bag to apply the veneer. I'd also ask about applying the vener directly on the metal but I think it would be prone to cracking. It may cost a few dollars but it will be well worth it. The adhesive used is heat activated and the vacuum bag will set the veneer with no bubbles.

After that you can trim the excess veneer and move on to staining and clear coat. I haven’t worked on a ’65 but I’ve not seen the wood panels attached to the door panel with tape on other years. You could get heavy duty upholstery glue (3M) and attach the metal panel with it. The other alternative is the black 3M double sided tape used on chrome trim and emblems. That holds permanently.

HTH,
Ralph

[John Abend]

The silver stripe was actually mounted on a thin clear plastic panel mounted on top of the tamo.  One of the original door panels I had still had the plastic panel on the tamo. When I was working on reproducing these veneers, I realized why they probably did it.  Tamo veneer even in the highest grade is extremely wavy and a lot of the graining has very thin spots.  Trying to sand it smooth and flat would most likely open holes in the graining, ruining the piece.  And since Tamo isn't exactly a cheap veneer, it would be much easier to get a smooth finish by sandwiching some clear plastic over the door panel veneers which were large sections and the wavy tamo would be highly noticeable as opposed to smaller sections like the dash pieces.  Not sure why they didn't use the same approach on the Fleetwoods.

I wrecked a lot of tamo veneer making reproductions of these.  The stain I used based on the unweathered section of veneer behind the pull strap base was Dark Walnut colored stain.

Hope this helps!

John

[66 Eldo]

About 15 years ago I replaced the wood in my 64 Eldorado. The wood was attached to metal panels similar to your 65. The 64 came with African Baku wood and I found a veneer that had a fiber or paper backing.

I had never done any wood refinishing and it was not that hard to do. Just a lot of time. Materials were just over $100 and it was a nearly perfect job.

This is what I remember doing.

1. Removed the metal plates from the car and removed the old wood and foil from the plates. MEK was the ONLY solvent that broke down the old glue. Wear a respirator and gloves when using MEK. (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) VERY BAD STUFF.

2. Cut paper templates for the new wood inserts.

3. Cut the veneer to match templates with an exacto knife and a GOOD metal straightedge.

4. Triple check the new veneer panels for fitment into the metal plates. Trim accordingly.

5. Tape veneer panels to flat planks of wood a bit longer and wider than the veneer panels. This will give you a firm and stable surface when it comes time to sand the clear and polish. 

6. Stain wood the appropriate color.

7. Apply the clearcoat. It was my first time doing this so I used Deft spray lacquer which is easy to apply. I applied about 10 to 15 coats lightly wet sanding between coats with a flexible block sanding pad. Meguiars makes a good one. I think I used 1000 grit sandpaper to cut the orange peel. 

8. Buffed by hand with Meguiars liquid cleaner wax. 

9. I could not find foil as thin as the original and that is one reason I left it out. The other reason is from what I know, the foil is a moisture barrier because the original wood was bare on the foil side. The replacement wood I used had a fiber backing which will act ( I think) as a replacement to the foil or at least combat moisture some.

10. Glued the wood to the metal plates with a hi-grade contact cement. Before gluing, fitment was re-checked and some final detail sanding was necessary on edges from the lacquer loading up a bit from many coats.

If I can find a picture, I will scan it and post. It came out nice and the first person that saw the car when it was for sale commented favorably on the wood and bought the car.

If I were to do it again, I would use automotive grade clear coat, the same as used for exterior paint. That is what all the professional wood refinishers use today.  It is much more durable than lacquer and has UV protection. Also, many of these clears are "high solids" which build fast so only two or three coats are necessary. 

[Chuck Swanson]

Thanks for all of the great comments.

Latest info I got from wood veneer company is similar to above.  http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/
However, they recommend using epoxy, specifically 206 or 207 special coating such as from west marine (using pair of pumps) to glue, but also as a coat on the other side when installed after a stain (with sealer, I believe like Minwax walnut). 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181377938118 West System Epoxy Kit:105A Resin+ 206A Slow Hardener+Pumps
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WEST-SYSTEMS-SPECIAL-CLEAR-HARDENER-42-2-oz-C207-SB-/181437023219?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item2a3e7d43f3&vxp=mtr


If bubbles in epoxy on outside, toothpicks or old school.. breathe on it    ..search w/Bing for other methods

Vacuum  press not necessary as flat, but use clamps w/ mdf in between.


Yes, on using clear coat with UV protection.  However, auto clear may not be compatible. 

Thanks!  Chuck

[cadillacjim]

I do alot of woodgraining at my shop for older cars. I might be able to help you out. send me a PM and we can talk.

[Lucas Feininger #15674]

Hi all

I need to do something about the Tamo wood panels on my 1965 Eldorado. They are intact but in tough shape. They are missing the "silver stripe". Since I don't have access to a restored/original 1965 Eldorado I was wondering:

• Is the silver stripe flat or is it more of a raised bead?

If the silver is flat I am going to experiment with adhesive chrome pin striping tape on some test veneer and then attempt to laminate the veneer and the tape using a laminate with a satin finish.

If any member with a restored or original 1965 Eldorado happens to read this and has the time to post some pictures of the door panels that would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you,