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CV Axle Bolts 78 Eldorado

Started by eldorado_boyblue, July 15, 2014, 10:00:27 PM

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eldorado_boyblue

Anyone know what socket or tool is necessary to remove the CV axle from where it attaches to the final drive shaft? There are six bolts that have a head with like 20 sides that need to be removed to separate the two. A normal socket won't fit and a 12pt. didn't work either. I don't see any special tools listed in the factory service manual and I'm kind of at a loss. I'll try and post a picture if that helps.
Daniel

1978 Eldorado

eldorado_boyblue

Here's a pic, sorry it's a little blurry but you get the idea.
Daniel

1978 Eldorado

76eldo

I think a 12 point 14 or 15 mm socket will work.  Joe Caristo and I just did his axles on a 1978 and we used regular 6 and 12 point sockets.  That bolt looks a bit stripped.

If you replace any, make sure to match up the thread and use a grade 8 hardened bolt.

Also, make sure that the large nut on the end of the axle will fit your new axles.  We had a problem because one of the ones we removed had been replaced before and had a smaller nut than the new axle and we had to grab one from a parts car.

Good Luck,

Brian
Brian Rachlin
Huntingdon Valley, Pa
I prefer email's not PM's rachlin@comcast.net

1960 62 Series Conv with Factory Tri Power
1970 DeVille Conv
1970 Eldo
1970 Caribu (?) "The Cadmino"
1973 Eldorado Conv Pace Car
1976 Eldorado Conv
1980 Eldorado H & E Conv
1993 Allante with Hardtop (X2)
2008 DTS
2012 CTS Coupe
2017 XT
1956 Thunderbird
1966 Olds Toronado

eldorado_boyblue

I wasn't able to get it with a 12 point or 6. 12mm was the best fit, 11 is too small. Do you recall if they were regular hex bolts or the multi-sided ones like this?
Daniel

1978 Eldorado

76eldo

Exactly what you are showing.

I think a previous installer used an air gun and stripped them.  A metric socket should fit, I cannot remember the size.  If they are stripped, try a standard socket.  12mm sounds small to me.

You can use a regular hex bolt as a replacement, but get hardened bolts.

Brian
Brian Rachlin
Huntingdon Valley, Pa
I prefer email's not PM's rachlin@comcast.net

1960 62 Series Conv with Factory Tri Power
1970 DeVille Conv
1970 Eldo
1970 Caribu (?) "The Cadmino"
1973 Eldorado Conv Pace Car
1976 Eldorado Conv
1980 Eldorado H & E Conv
1993 Allante with Hardtop (X2)
2008 DTS
2012 CTS Coupe
2017 XT
1956 Thunderbird
1966 Olds Toronado

The Tassie Devil(le)

You need to use a thin-wall 7/16" ring spanner, or socket of the twelve point variety.

Nothing else will do.

I use a Dowidat brand ring spanner that is shown in the picture, directly behind the larger of the three hole punches.

It is showing only one ring, as the 3/8" on the other end was broken off, so I shortened it.

I know that a socket will fit, but it has to have the smaller shank, as in either 3/8" or 1/4"

I don't torque up these bolts when using the ring spanner, but rely on my hand strength to get it right.

The reason yours is damaged is because of previous use of a spanner that didn't completely fit the head.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

Glen

I always use a 12 point 7/16 socket and a 28 inch extension with a 3/8 drive breaker bar.  I keep the axle from tuning by putting a screwdriver in the fins of the brake rotor and let it rest against the caliper.

There is only one place where a long extension can go through, so I use the screwdriver to rotate the axel to line up the next bolt. 

I agree the bolt in the picture is partly stripped.  I would try a socket that does not have and bevel at the mouth of the socket.  By that I mean that the “points” of the socket go all the way to edge of the socket.  I would even grind the socket if needed. 
Glen Houlton CLC #727 
CLCMRC benefactor #104

TJ Hopland

I'm with the rest, its supposed to be a 12pt 7/16 head.
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

beastly beauties

Agree with the 7/16" 12 point. From the looks of that bolt head, I would not attempt to turn it without grinding down the socket  like Glen said to get maximum grip on what's left of the head. in situations like yours I would "GENTLY" tap the very base of the head counter clockwise if possible, or straight on, with a sharp flat bladed air chisel. You don't need any more than just one small shot well placed burst. It is a trick we use to use years ago on stubborn fasteners especially wheel opening moldings so we could reuse the screws without any damage whatsoever. I have seen these bolts for sale recently  and would recommend putting only the 12 pointers back on for proper torqueing without damaging the heads. There is twice as much surface for the wrench to grab than a standard hex head bolt. Good Luck    David Symonds

eldorado_boyblue

Thank you I think that one was missing from my tool kit. I'll find one and see if that works.
Daniel

1978 Eldorado