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Airtex Fuel Pump for 1959 Cadillac

Started by rex, August 13, 2014, 10:51:10 AM

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rex

Hello Fellow Members,

I have a question regarding the new replacement fuel pumps made by Airtex for 1958, 1959 Cadillacs.  I own two 59's and one '58, and in the last several years, I have installed probably eight or nine of these pumps on my cars.  After a few weeks, they all display the same symptom, viz. they fail to deliver sufficient fuel on a hot restart to keep the car running, and then as time goes on fail to deliver fuel at low or high speeds.  I finally installed auxiliary pumps on these cars to kick in when the mechanical pump fails.  I own several other vintage cars, and none of them has this problem.  I have owned the '58 and one of the '59's for many years, and until the older fuel pumps failed some years back, I never had a fuel delivery problem.

I am wondering if any other owners have experienced these symptoms with the new Airtex pumps?

Thanks,

Rex Crews 
Rex Crews #18304

dplotkin

I put 1 Airtex pump on my 56 4 years ago and have never looked back. I have no hot restarting problems whatsoever and run no electric pump.

I am a firm believer that Cadillac cars were properly built to begin with and that the fascination with electric pumps is to mask another problem or set of problems, usually with the carb or perhaps with the tank/line connection and/or the carburetor.

Though some argue that Cadillac placing the fuel pump high on the engine rather than low on the front is a problem, how can that be so? The fuel pump has resided there on the OHV V8 through 62, I believe.

Is it possible the cam pushrod has worn and pump action is inadequate? Sounds like it based on your description. Also, the entire line from pump to tank can have no leaks whatsoever. The pump cannot pull through a line that cannot hold a vacuum. An intermittent or pin hole leak in the line before the pump will cause your problem too.

Dan
56 Fleetwood Sixty Special (Starlight silver over Dawn Grey)
60 Buick Electra six window
60 Chrysler 300 F Coupe
61 Plymouth Savoy Ram Inducted 413 Superstock
62 Pontiac Bonneville Vista
63 Chevy Impala convertable
63 Ford Galaxie XL fastback
65 Corvette convertable 396
68 Chrysler New Yorker

Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621

Had a very similar problem with the Airtex in my '62 but it was worse than just super-hard starting. The car would stall out upon the slightest accelerator pressure.

Took the pump cap off and found one of the nickel-sized pieces floating about on top of the fuel. It must be firmly seated in the pump body to keep from losing fuel pressure. Some recommend using marine epoxy to hold it in place - but I haven't tried that.

The side of the "nickel" with the rubber tip must be facing downward when you snap it in.
A Cadillac Motorcar is a Possession for which there is no Acceptable Substitute

curly

As I read your post, the first thing I thought of was the fuel pump eccentric. A worn eccentric doesn't explain how a new pump works for a while but it is easy enough to check.  I measured the rise and fall of the eccentric on my 59 using a dial caliper. I didn't write the measurement down, but I believe it was just short of .500.  I was chasing down the source of a tapping sound in that area and thought the rod or eccentric might be worn enough to leave a gap between the push rod and fuel pump.
I placed the caliper across the opening for the oil fill, put the end of the caliper on the push rod and rotated the engine (by hand) in 1/4 turn increments and recorded the number.  You will need 2 complete turns to get one full turn of the camshaft.

T Lewis

Jon S

Quote from: ericdev on August 13, 2014, 11:36:07 AM
Had a very similar problem with the Airtex in my '62 but it was worse than just super-hard starting. The car would stall out upon the slightest accelerator pressure.

Took the pump cap off and found one of the nickel-sized pieces floating about on top of the fuel. It must be firmly seated in the pump body to keep from losing fuel pressure. Some recommend using marine epoxy to hold it in place - but I haven't tried that.

The side of the "nickel" with the rubber tip must be facing downward when you snap it in.

Eric -

How did you get the pump cap off?  I removed the two screws on mine, but the cap seemed to be frozen on.  Suggestions?

Jon
Jon

1958 Cadillac Sedan De Ville
1973 Lincoln Continental Coupe
1981 Corvette
2004 Mustang GT

Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621

Very gently pry with a nice sharp screwdriver. Push UP on the lid NOT down into the gasket. When you've got the lid off, carefully remove the gasket.

Then you'll see two nickel-sized pieces inside. The one that is forward (closer to you) often becomes unseated causing the loss of pressure. Make sure it is firmly pressed down in place evenly - it's a very precise fit so make sure it is squarely set in the hole before seating it in!

Make sure the gasket is perfectly clean before reinstalling and the screws must be turned VERY tightly to prevent leaks! Immediately verify it is not leaking as soon as the car is started!

Setting the piece in (I wish I knew what is called) solved the hard starts in my '62.

Good luck.
A Cadillac Motorcar is a Possession for which there is no Acceptable Substitute

rex

Dear Members,

Thanks for all of your help and suggestions.  I am going to check the things you all have been kind enough to suggest.  The odd thing, and the primary reason for my faulting the pump, is that a new pump works great on any of these three vehicles for several weeks.  I have done volume tests, etc. and the pump passes with flying colors.  We have been able to find  no signs of a leak or pinhole on any of the cars.  I am going to check to see if the valves in the fuel pump are properly seated.  Thanks again, everyone!  Rex
Rex Crews #18304

ericdel

Thank you for this post.  I just repaired my pump after reading it.  The nickle sized valve in mine also came loose.  I reseated it and the car runs great.  Thanks
1959 Cadillac 6239

64\/54Cadillacking

Speaking of fuel pumps, I’ve gone through 4 pumps in 4 years on my 64 SDV!!

2 pumps were Carters, one was a Sprectra Premium and the other an Airtex which surprisingly lasted the longest about 2 years.

I believe the first 2 died pretty fast probably because of having a lot of sediments in the fuel tank. So I installed a fuel filter prior to the pump which help alleviate the problem for awhile, until another one died on me.

I really don’t understand it, this is not normal to go thru so many pumps in such a short period of time. All the pumps were made in the U.S. as if that even matters anymore since quality is a hit or miss with American made parts today.

Every time a pumped died, it always would dump gas into the crankcase thinning out the oil causing a very bad lifter tick. It got really annoying having to keep changing the oil each time it happened. I’m not sure exactly what failed in my pumps, I took apart 2 of them and couldn’t really see what was wrong. The diaphragms weren’t cracked or anything, but each time one did fail, it seeped a little bit of gas from the screws on top of the housing. That was a sure sign the pump is about to fail soon, you just never know that it’s bad until the car just craps out on the road driving and you can’t restart it.

I am going to install an electric fuel pump once this new one decides to quit on me.
Not only is it dangerous when it does happen, but the damage being done by gas leaking into the oil.

It’s mind boggling to be honest, because I’ve owned a 78 Lincoln Continental for 6 years now and replaced the mechanical fuel pump when I first got it and it hasn’t given me any drivability issues whatsoever besides for the Carb needing to be rebuilt.

Currently Rides:
1964 Sedan Deville
1954 Cadillac Fleetwood 60 Special
1979 Lincoln Mark V Cartier Designer Series
2007 Lexus LS 460L (extended wheelbase edition)

Previous Rides:
1987 Brougham D' Elegance
1994 Fleetwood Bro
1972 Sedan Deville
1968 Coupe Deville
1961 Lincoln Continental
1993 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
1978 Lincoln Continental ( R.I.P.) 1978-2024 😞