1959 Transmission Separate

[60eldo]

    Im just trying to separate a 59 trans. from a siezed engine. My question is if I take the 6 nuts off the torque converter, will the trans slide off? The engine and trans are out of the car sitting on the floor,,, Thanks

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

In a word, no.

You either have to undo all the nuts holding the Fluid Drive together, which requires spinning the crankshaft, or, turning the engine over, with trans attached, and removing the sump, and connecting rod bearing caps off, allowing the crank to turn sufficiently to get at the 4 drive plate nuts.

I would be pulling the heads off, and seeing which pistons are seized, and removing the good ones, and then see what you can do to turn the crank.

Bruce.

[INTMD8]

I had the same problem and was able to temporarily pry the trans back from the engine (flexing the flexplate) and getting to the top nuts with a small 1/4 drive ratchet and socket.

[60eldo]

          So I dont have to do everything Bruce said?

[INTMD8]

Well I'm just sharing what I did at the time of having the same problem. Will you be able to duplicate my results I'm not sure but I wish you luck in trying!

[59-in-pieces]

Johnny,
Jim is correct.
It is not easy, but if you take it slowly and use a 6 sided not 12 sided socket you should be able to do it.
But since the engine is seized, let me suggest that if you have not tried this - pull the plugs and through the holes drench the cylinders with half acetone and trans fluid or Magic Mystery oil.  Both may after 12 to 24 hours free up the seized pistons - if that is what is hung up.
Other wise, follow what Bruce suggests - as you are likely, and best off to, rebuild the engine.  Not wise to do a rebuild on the cheap, a seized cylinder at a time.
Have fun,
Steve B.

[Julien Abrahams]

I would also suggest to first try to free up the motor with the transmission still attached. I think it is much easier to separate the two if you can rotate the torqueconverter.

[bill06447]

I can tell you from experience you aren't going to have much luck unbolting the rods-unless the pistons can move up in the bores there won't be enough room to turn the crank.

Do the ATF/acetone soak and give it time-it didn't lock up overnight and it's not going to free up overnight either. I've a 61 with a stuck engine that's been sitting for 20+ years and the one thing I'm learning is patience is a must-have with this type of thing. The most frustrating thing, is there really is no way to get a grip anywhere to bust it loose. Ideas?

[76eldo]

I'm working on a 60 with a stuck engine.
Im soaking the cylinders with PB Blaster and trying to rotate the engine with a chain style strap wrench and also a 13/16 socket and breaker bar bit it's not budging.

Today I used a leak down adapter to try to force lubricant past the rings with compressed air in each spark plug hole.

Not budging. If I drop the oil pan and look at the bearings I can see if there is a problem with the bearings.  I am assuming the rings are stuck to the cylinder walls. It's not a rust bucket and only has 38,000 miles.

Any tips would be appreciated.

Brian

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Why so low miles?   Did it stop being used because of a blown head gasket?   If so, then I can envisage you pulling the heads to see a mess on top of one or two pistons.

Any water in a cylinder, after many years will expand the piston against the cylinder wall that tight that you will need a sledge hammer to move it.

Bruce.

[Bob Hoffmann CLC#96]

Brian,
Are you trying to use the damper to move the motor??? BAD idea! Pull the lower cover & pry on the fly wheel. Much better mechanical advantage.
HTH, Bob

[76eldo]

Bob,

I know it's not good to try to move the damper and I am not putting as much force on it as I could.

The starter and inspection plate have been removed.  Unfortunately the ring gear is NOT exposed this way as it site back in the bellhousing.  In other words, the plate allows access to remove the bolts IF you have the ability to rotate the engine.

I don't think these is a blown head gasket or water damage.  I will be dropping the oil pan tomorrow ton see if I can determine if the penetrating oil is passing by the rings and also to look at the bearings.

I guess the next step would be to pull the heads. 

I don't want to tear the whole car apart but you need to be able to rotate the engine to separate it from the trans and it seems like if it wasn't some simple surface rust that could be broken loose chemically I should pull the engine and do new rings and bearings just to be safe.

The car is a true 38,000 mile 1960 Eldorado Seville and it's worth doing right.

Brian