News:

Due to a technical issue, some recently uploaded pictures have been lost. We are investigating why this happened but the issue has been resolved so that future uploads should be safe.  You can also Modify your post (MORE...) and re-upload the pictures in your post.

Main Menu

How to Replace Universal Joints, 1970 Cadillac Deville

Started by Philip Capernaros, August 24, 2014, 02:43:34 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Philip Capernaros

How does one replace the universal joints on a 1970 Cadillac De Ville drive shaft?  Hardened steel caps are pressed onto the bearings and I am unable to remove them.  After market kits are available to rebuild them and descriptions show snap rings for securing the bearings.  Am I trying to do the impossible?  Please Help.

Doug Houston

You have what is known as: "Back--to--back" Cardan joints. They function as a constant velocity joint. Several years ago, I needed to replace the same kind of joints on a '64 convertible I was driving. I struggled with them for half a day, and did get them together.

Back on the car, there was imbalance. The joints hadn't gone on there correctly.

I was living in Detroit at the time, so my Father took the shaft to Joint, Clutch, and Gear service, there in town, and they did it right.

I would never recommend doing it yourself!
38-6019S
38-9039
39-9057B
41-6227D
41-6019SF
41-6229D
41-6267D
56-6267
70-DeV Conv
41-Chev 41-1167
41 Olds 41-3929

TJ Hopland

I too have fought with U joints.   One project I think I spent most of the day getting one changed out not counting the trip  back to the parts store because the joint was not what the book said it would be.   After that I looked at the other one on the other end and decided I didn't want to go through that again so I took it to a shop.   I watched the guy lay the thing on the side of a bench and I think it took 4 whacks with a big hammer and it was apart.  He walks over to the shelf and pulls the correct joint off, over to the press and it was done maybe 10 mins later.  Decided to have him balance it and we fond that I messed up the yolk on the other end so it had to be replaced, so much for a cheap repair.     I had one of those CV things on one of my trucks.  Took about 30 seconds to decide I didn't want to try that.  I think there is a spring in the middle that looks like its got a fair amount of pressure on it.
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

cadillacmike68

These are not for the faint of heart.

And it would be yoke not yolk.
Regards,
"Cadillac" Mike

chrisntam

Sounds like if he attempts to repair the u-joints, the yoke will be on him.   >:D
1970 Deville Convertible 
Dallas, Texas

dadscad

Phillip, If your are not familiar with replacing U-Joints and you do have the Dual Cardan CV joints on your cars drive shaft, it would be better to find a driveline shop that can handle them. If the ball is worn (most likely) it will need to be replaced along with the ball socket kit and two new U-Joints.

I was forced to learn how to repair the CV Joints in my 63 because of inept local shops. The work they did was worse than the original worn out driveline. If you can find an old Motors repair manual of 60 - 70's vintage, it has the procedure to disassemble and reassemble these U-Joints. They say to use a hammer to drive out the bearing cups. I prefer to use a C frame ball joint press clamped in a vice, it is less apt to damage the yoke and CV ball socket components. The factory U-Joint bearing cups are held in with a plastic adhesive. It takes considerable pressure to break the bond to remove the original U-Joints. A press makes it much easier to control that pressure than a big hammer. The Dual Cardan CV needs to be assembled as close to center as possible to keep the drive shaft tube running true and not in a different elliptical circle at each end of each CV Joint. The factory had special jigs to keep everything in perfect alignment to assemble the CV Joints. That is why they used the plastic adhesive instead of C clips to hold the bearing cups. They could move the bearing cups in and out to adjust for yoke tolerance differences to keep everything straight.
Enjoy The Ride,
David Thomas CLC #14765
1963 Coupe deVille

Philip Capernaros

Dave, Thanks so much for your insightful comments.  I did try to slam the cups with a heavy hammer but they were too well pressed in.  I tried heating them and then striking them. That was equally unsuccessful. Your suggestion that I take it to a qualified shop
is sound advice. Your explanation of the alignment procedure for the ball was something that I had not considered.  I will make one more brief effort an then....
Thanks again, Phil

cadillacmike68

i had to send mine out to a drive line shop. The CV joints on these are great, but not easily serviced.
Regards,
"Cadillac" Mike

TJ Hopland

I think a fair number of 4x4 trucks used them into the 90's so it should not be too hard to find a shop that has worked with them before.
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

fabbrofour

I just had the u-joints replaced on my 67 De Ville. The driveline shop guy heated each side of the yoke with an oxy-acetylene torch with a rose bud on it to melt the plastic that hold them in. Each cup popped (actually shot) right out.

The ball and sockets were worn and the guy said they weren't replaceable and that I didn't need double u-joints anyway and built me a new driveline with single u-joints front and back. That doesn't work and I had a vibration at 30-35 mph.

He finally called the Spicer rep who brought over the correct parts and I'm now back on the road. When you replace the driveshaft make sure to check the play in the tail-shaft bushings. Mine were worn so I had those replaced as well as the tail-shaft seal.

TJ Hopland

I think the reason most cars didn't use the CV's was in the design stages they first placed the engine and rear axle in their ideal positions and then built the car around those locations and what you got was what you got.   Cadillac decided they didn't like where things ended up that way, could have been something simple like they wanted the back seat an inch lower.   That change lost the ideal angles so a simple drive shaft would not work so they went to the CV.
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

cadillacmike68

Quote from: TJ Hopland on August 26, 2014, 08:56:40 AM
I think a fair number of 4x4 trucks used them into the 90's so it should not be too hard to find a shop that has worked with them before.

Cadillac also used them (double Cardan CV joints) on the Fleetwood RWDs (mostly in coach builder bodies only) from 1993 to 1996. It's a better setup, but a PITA to service when it wears out. 
Regards,
"Cadillac" Mike

wschimberg

I know this is really old but I was wondering if anyone knew how to replace the ball that centers the drive shaft. Mine is very worn and loose. This is the only place I found on the internet that people actually seemed to know what they were talking about when it comes to these strange driveshafts.
Only 18, here to learn

The Tassie Devil(le)

G'day William,

Nothing wrong with being young and stupid.   It is a worry when one retains their stupidity as they age.

A good quality shop that works on Drive Shafts will be able to access the parts required, but if one cannot be found near you, then you might have to go looking for a used tail shaft with good universals.

I do know that Buick used the same Cardan Joint in the Riverias of the late 60's and early '70's, so there should be parts out there.

The trouble with a lot of places is that if it isn't a Ford, with a simple single cross Universal, then they don't want to know about these expensive parts.

Bruce. >:D

PS.   When I wanted one down here, I had to get one from Connecticut.   Ended up cutting the tube off the joints to shorten it, as postage on such a long part to the other side of the world is huge.   When it arrived, I just had it swapped over.
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

V63

I have successfully done a few of these and I personally did not find them too difficult. It's been significant years since I tackled one.

Most I had done were still original with the red plastic injection, I lubricated the center ball but I can't say I was ever without reasonably rebuildable parts.

if wear is significant I would post for a wanted assembly that might find rebuildable.




dadscad

Hi William.
Depending on the year of manufacture will determine what is required to replace the socket ball. Early years the ball was not replaceable without machining. The later years the ball was pressed on and easily replaced. Ball socket kits were available with or without the ball. There are different type kits for the early or later designs.  Years ago, I bought kit's from Rockford Driveline in Illinois. They had their catalogs on line to help determine what kit was applicable. HTH
Enjoy The Ride,
David Thomas CLC #14765
1963 Coupe deVille