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Generator or Alternator Redux - taking the plunge

Started by Dave Burke, September 12, 2014, 09:47:59 PM

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Dave Burke

Hi Y'all,

Well, I am going to do it.  Last night, the generator fried its field windings and ingested part of a carbon brush so while it is being rebuilt, I bought a 3-wire Delco alternator at O'Reilly.  It is the one for the 1983 Olds Delta-88 and is rated at 78 amps.  I understand the idea of turning the bracket around for mounting purposes - I may also just break out my MIG welder and fabricate a bracket.  I believe that it was Dan LeBlanc who had the general process down to a "T," but I have a couple of questions.

I will be using 8 AWG wire from the "BAT" terminal to the battery, incorporating a fusible link.  What gauge and what length of fusible wire is recommended?  I plan on using 14 AWG for the rest, and will run a pigtail to the brown wire for the charging light, etc. 

It was mentioned that the other wire that goes from the alternator to the accessories should go to the main fuse box.  That seems sensible, and easy enough to screw up err, to "do."

Do I understand then that there is no need at all to run the voltage regulator on the sidewall, and that I just remove it and trust the alternator to handle everything, or can I rout the wiring to it like it was a generator-powered system and thus have all of the terminals already marked?  Or would I be more likely to fry the regulator if I tried that? 

I appreciate Y'all's wisdom and patience with me here.  I'll save the generator and other stuff in case I want to go back, or in case I sell the car.  But she is a driver and the only reason that she would show up at a Grand National is because I drove her there!

Best,

Dave Burke
CLC# 27968
1957 Sedan Deville
1963 Series 62 - Project LUX
1983 Maserati Quattroporte

"Who loves ya, Baby?" - Kojak

joeceretti

#1
Not sure what car you have but with a generator to alternator conversion you should not use your VR and you should put your sense wire as close to the central distribution block as possible.

Dave Burke

Hi Joe,

It is a 1957 SDV.  I just want to make sure that I have an idea of what I am doing before I fry my wiring!

Best,

Dave
1957 Sedan Deville
1963 Series 62 - Project LUX
1983 Maserati Quattroporte

"Who loves ya, Baby?" - Kojak

TJ Hopland

The general rule for fusible links is technically 4 sizes smaller than the wire.  Its less confusing if they would say 2 sizes since in the smaller wires they don't do the odd sizes.   In your case with the #8 you would use a #12 link wire.

The closer to the output post small terminal is the one that goes to the dash light.  The far one is the 'sense' one that 90% of the time just went to the big post.  I have run them to a different location and it has not really seemed to make a big difference.  On one car I did that on that wire was the one that got caught and damaged, should have put a fuse or link wire in that one too. 

One side of the light needs to get a + when the key is on.   The other side of the light goes to the alternator.  Sometimes on a older conversion you will need to install a diode between the alt and the light.  Without the diode sometimes the alternator can 'back feed' other things that come on with the key like perhaps the ignition stuff which means the engine won't turn off.
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

Dave Burke

Hi TJ,

Now I am getting confused, because I did have to install a diode when I added the Pertronix ignition for the very reason that you stated - feedback through the charging light circuit.  I figure that I am probably over-thinking things, so it is one last trip to the auto parts store and see if I can't do this!

Best,

Dave
1957 Sedan Deville
1963 Series 62 - Project LUX
1983 Maserati Quattroporte

"Who loves ya, Baby?" - Kojak

bcroe

If the main output wire is pretty heavy /short, its less important to run the voltage
sense wire to the block, though that is still ideal.  Sometimes a diode is needed in the
lamp wire, though if running on, you could turn on the lights (or perhaps just open a
door) to absorb enough power to stop the car/ignition.  Bruce Roe

Dave Burke

Hi Bruce,

Thanks, that clears it up a bit and the only wire that I need to run now is the sensor wire, then it is all mechanical from there.  Later I'll post a photo of the alternator mount that I fabricated yesterday.  The only problem with it is figuring out how to mount or adapt the hose hanger for the heater hoses, but I figure that to be a relatively minor issue.

Dave
1957 Sedan Deville
1963 Series 62 - Project LUX
1983 Maserati Quattroporte

"Who loves ya, Baby?" - Kojak

Dave Burke

Here are a couple of pics of my alternator bracket - I made it out of steel stock and welded it all together.  I made the mounting holes oval so that I could true up the belt easily.  The only thing that I have an issue with  is the mount for the heater hoses, which may end up being zip-tied for a while!  I am happy with it and it sits up off of the engine more than the generator did!  I reckon that if anyone wants, I can post pics of the whole thing mounted in the engine bay.

Dave
1957 Sedan Deville
1963 Series 62 - Project LUX
1983 Maserati Quattroporte

"Who loves ya, Baby?" - Kojak

bcroe