Side post battery cut offs options

[GBrown #8092]

Has anyone had success with any of them? I have tried them on several of my cars and have had each one fail, after a period of time, while I have had the same one on a top post battery for over 20 years. I have purchased them at swap meets and at name brand auto supply stores. Each one has either stopped worked or come apart.

Additionally, has anyone been able to install such a device on a 1989-1993 front driver (mine is a 93 Touring Sedan). Even if I could get one that would live for this car, there is no room to install it.  There is barely enough room to disconnect the battery without half removing it. It really needs one as the battery goes dead in about 3 weeks. After dealing with that issue with a new one in 1992, I was told that is the design parameter (Allante's were 2 weeks) as they didn't expect that anyone would let their cars sit for longer than that. 

Has anyone come up with an alternative method to disconnect power to the battery? 

I should add that my storage facility has very limited access to electricity so a battery tender/minder is not feasible.

Glenn

[Scot Minesinger]

You can get a real good rotary one from Summit Racing, that will not fail.  The way you hook it up is remove ground cable connected to negative on battery from frame and sheet metal and attach to lug of switch.  Then get a two lug battery cable from any Auto parts store, see three feet long and attach to other side of switch and back ground where it was originally.  The sheet metal wire can go on same lug on switch.  I can send photo if you wish.  These are super nice switches that cost like $50 or so and rated for 750 amps.

[gary griffin]

I would consider a firewall mounted switch.  The lever would be inside the car and it is also accessible if there is a fire in the engine compartment.

[Jon S]

I've had one of those green knob switches on my Corvette (side mount terminals) for over 20 years and no problem.  The switch needs to be attached to the Negative side of the battery.  Unless your switch is getting corroded from battery acid it should perform as well as the top mount varieties.  If it were to fail, it would be because of corrosion under the green cap.  You could coat it and the side it makes contact with when tightened with dielectric grease as a precaution.

[936CD69]

Glenn,

Owning 2 93 SdV, I understand your situation. I would definitely connect the disconnect the negative cable and NOT use a disconnect switch. I use battery minders on mine but that is not an option for you. There are 7 computer modules in your car that do not like arcing, and the disconnect switch would be very doficult to install as you note. The negative cable has 2 cables molded into one end. Although the A/C liquid line runs near the face of the battery, you can get a slim 5/16 wrench in there and remove the cable connection.

HTH

Craig

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

Glenn,
I would second the "battery tender" option.  Fry one of your computers and you will not be a happy camper.
Greg Surfas

[GBrown #8092]

Thanx all.

I think I have a game plan. 
For now, the battery will be on the shelf  until we get back to good weather, which will probably be late April here.


GB