1949 clock removal

[MB49Caddy]

Making progress boys! Replaced the exhaust, fixed the drivers side vent, fixed a few other nits.

Want to remove the clock to send it to a guy I like to repair it. How challenging is this and can someone take some pics and or walk me through it?

Thanks, and we are about to get a ton of snow tomorrow so I would like to get this thing out and sent off for repair before the weather warms up.

Thanks in advance!
Regards,
Matt B

[jaxops]

I haven't done it myself on a Cadillac but it certainly will be easier with the dashpad off so you can reach down instead of crumpling yourself into a ball and reaching up from the floor.  The one I did change out took a long time but I didn't remove the dashpad first.  I think the trick for older Cadillacs is to keep all of the dash hardware together and some place safe so you can see how it goes back when you get your clock back.

[Dan LeBlanc]

No dash pad on a '49.

Judging by the position, I think it would be easily removed by gaining access through the glovebox.  Unhook the wires and light, unscrew the two nuts off the back, and pull it out.

[Philippe M. Ruel]

No big deal, only a small 5/16" ratchet wrench or socket if you don't want to unscrew the two retaining screws by 1/6 turn using a spanner wrench.

Disconnect the battery before having your metallic wrench move around hidden wires and hot connectors.

[Jay Friedman]

Dan and Philippe are absolutely right.  It's not difficult at all through the glove box. 

[MB49Caddy]

Jay,
What needs to be unscrewed in the glove box and what is holding the clock in to the support it sits in?
Thanks,
Matt

[Jay Friedman]

Matt,

You have to lie down on the front seat with the glove box door open.  You'll see directly under the clock a rectangular hole in the glove box liner.  Shine a small light up in there and you'll see there are two 3/8 inch nuts with lock washers under them which hold the back of the clock to two strap like parts of the dash frame.  There are also 3 electrical connections: one for the clock power and two are small light sockets which clip into the clock body.  (You may need a mechanic's mirror with an integral light to see up there better.)  I would unscrew the 2 nuts, pull the clock just enough out of its place from the front so you can disconnect the electrical connections, then pull it out completely.  If the wires aren't long enough, disconnect the electrical connections before unscrewing the 2 nuts.

Hope this helps,

Jay

[MB49Caddy]

Jay,
That is exactly what I needed. I have to determine the cost of the updates to my 308QV before I pull this but I will try to get to my car to take a look this weekend if we don't get totally snowed in to see if I can see what you have described. Thanks so much!
MB

Matt,

You have to lie down on the front seat with the glove box door open.  You'll see directly under the clock a rectangular hole in the glove box liner.  Shine a small light look up in there and you'll see there are two 3/8 inch nuts with lock washers under them which hold the back of the clock to two strap like parts of the dash frame.  There are also 3 electrical connections: one for the clock power and two are small light sockets which clip into the clock body.  (You may need a mechanic's mirror with an integral light to see up there better.)  I would unscrew the 2 nuts, pull the clock just enough out of its place from the front so you can disconnect the electrical connections, then pull it out completely.  If the wires aren't long enough, disconnect the electrical connections before unscrewing the 2 nuts.

Hope this helps,

Jay

[MB49Caddy]

Dash clock is being pulled and sent to Joe Dickhudt for repair and refurb:
http://www.classicautoelectric.com/info.html
Comments are welcome.
MB

[MickeyCaddy]

Wondering...does the same procedure apply to a '55 Series 62 sedan? I'd like to get the clock out and send it for repair, but I don't want to poke around blindly, possibly shorting wires or tearing up the glove box liner.

M Chanslor

[MB49Caddy]

Not sure M. Had one of the instructions for removing it from one of the 49er club guys and gave that to the mechanic who was doing the work. It appears he got it out quite easily as he didn't mention it when we spoke about a number of things.
Will let you know how the repairs go, and when I get it back will take some pics if I haven't reinstalled it yet (clock may take longer than other repairs).
MB

[MB49Caddy]

Latest update - it is NEVER as easy as one would think. A quote from classic auto electric...

"Well, it was an epic struggle at times, but the old clock is running nicely now, and has been keeping good time on the bench for several days now.  The one thing you have to know about clocks like this, and you may already know this, is that they usually do not start by themselves when power is applied. The way you "start" these clocks in general is by setting the time, and this particular type of clock is more reluctant than most to getting started. That's one reason (probably the main reason) they were never all that popular over the years.  Anyway, the best way to start this clock is to set the time, and then just hold the adjustment knob all the way out, without turning it at all, for about three seconds"
>

Most recent update--- "It seems that I got a little ahead of myself last time we talked. The clock ran just fine for almost a week, but then it got it trouble.  The problem this time turned out to be that the points were worn too much to keep the clock running. Since there are no replacements available for this guy I decided to try once again making replacements (using a transistorized circuit). It took a while, but the replacement is working nicely now. The clock has been running for about three days now. We'll keep it running for a longer time to be sure it's really OK now.
>
>> The good news is that the clock really is running better now, and it's actually even easier and more reliable to start now. To answer your question, when the clock is running you shouldn't have any problem at all to continue running it just fine when you have the car on a battery tender if you want. The battery tender really is a good idea, by the way.
>
> Please let me know if you have any questions.  In any case, we will plan on just keeping the clock running on the bench for a while longer."
>
Really happy I have Joe D working on this as I can tell he really understands these pieces, but WOW was this much more challenging that I had hoped...
MB

[Jay Friedman]

Matt,

I had mine rebuilt 20 years ago by the guy in S. Carolina and it only ran well intermittently after that.  On the other hand, I didn't have your advice on how to make it run well at that time.  Finally gave up a couple of years ago and had it converted to a quartz movement with the same hands and with a single AA battery.  It now runs perfectly and even keeps good time.

Jay

[MB49Caddy]

I know we are likely going that way...that is the sad thing -- I like to keep everything OEM but this might have been one of those times I should have chomped on the bullet and converted it to quartz...
We'll see how it goes.
MB