1960 front brakes

[60eldo]

   Yesterday I had soft brakes so we adjusted the rears through the back of the backing plate, but when we got to the front there were no holes to adjust the fronts. How is this done,,,thanks

[Alan Harris CLC#1513]

Look for a slot in the drum.

[60eldo]

  So,,,,,,take the wheel off and there should be a slot similar to the one at the rear of the rear wheels?

[Alan Harris CLC#1513]

Should be. I have also heard of drums that have a plug that needs to be knocked out, but I would guess that that would have been done already.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Don't forget that the brakes on a '60 are self-adjusting, and the best way to use the self-adjusting process is to reverse and hit the brakes.   Doing this a couple of times will bring the shoes, both front and rear to the correct adjustment.

BUT, you have to reverse at a bit of speed, not just crawling.

Bruce.

[59-in-pieces]

Johnny,
Although I don't know that much about a 60, I do know 59's.
The front brake drum has a slot cut into the outside face of the drum to allow you to adjust the front brakes.
You must remove the wheel in order to access the slot.
I have attached a pic of a front 59 brake drum for comparison.
Given where you live - I would strongly suggest you buy a set - 4 - rubber plugs that fill the slots.
They help keep the water and slush from entering the drum - not waterproof - just helps.
Have fun,
Steve B.

[60eldo]

        This all started when after my car was sitting for the winter 5 months, I started her and went for a drive and the brakes were mushy. I thought it might be the booster. I had the rears adjusted but couldnt figure out the front. They are better now but I think once the front is done they will be fine,,,,lets see,,,,,,thanks all

[76eldo]

Steve B is exactly right.

Wheel off, rotate drum to get the slot at the bottom.

Plug may be hard as a rock if it's there.

Brian

[59-in-pieces]

Thanks Brian,
I thought I'd post a picture of the rubber plugs that go into the slots.
Big pic to show the details.
Fun things to know.
Have fun,
Steve B.

[76eldo]

The last 60 I worked on the plugs were hard and when I tried to pry them out they fell into the drum.
It's always best to pull the drums and grease the bearings and have a look at everything anyway.

Brian

[60eldo]

  OK thanks guys Im just wondering about the driving in reverse and hitting the breaks, does that really work cause I see that in the manual too

[joeceretti]

If everything is as it should be and not seized up it will work that way. I'd pull the drums off and at least take a look.

[m-mman]

FYI - Replacement drums commonly had the adjusting hole scored but one has to take a chisel and knock the plug out to make it accessible.

Yes, hitting the brakes in reverse DOES take up slack and adjust the brakes, BUT ONLY if all the self adjusting mechanism is properly installed and functioning.
Too many times a mechanic doesn't know how to properly install the parts and they do not work. Example: if you mix up and swap the star wheel between R and L the self adjusters LOOSEN the brakes rather than tighten them. Frozen star wheels are common too. They can be tested after installation of the brake assembly before installing the drum by pulling on the link and watching the lever actuate the star wheel.

You also use the word 'soft' which might mean 'mushy'? Use of these words generally describe air in the system. While you are down there give a good bleed to all for wheels too. 

[m-mman]

Also a word about the rubber plugs for the adjusting hole.
They are 100% necessary when the hole is in the backing plate but not if the hole is in the drum.

1. They potentially affect the balance of the drum.
2. The hole is behind the wheel and as you drive the car the drum is spinning so the hole not exposed to the puddles such that is can allow water inside. Centrifugal force would throw the water away from the hole.
I guess if you parked in a deep puddle then the water could get inside, but then even with a plug the deep water would seep inside between the drum and the backing plate. . . .

[Roger Zimmermann]

Also a word about the rubber plugs for the adjusting hole.

There was not a rubber plug from the factory, but a plug made with a thin steel plate with 2 hooks which were inserted into the hole.

[76eldo]

As heavy as the drum is I cannot see the weight of a little rubber plug creating a balance problem.

If it can be reused I would re-use it but if it's missing or broken I see no cause to worry about it.
The initial adjustment should always be done at each wheel and there should be a slight drag when you turn the drum by hand.

I would say if the self adjusters work that's a bonus. The parts inside of the drum should be visually inspected at least once a year to look for wetness at the wheel cylinder and condition of the drum and lining. 

Brian

[59-in-pieces]

In restoration, we who like to put our cars back to OEM (or as close as our money, ability and the authenticity information will allow) put in the rubber plug - at least with 59's - and should be there.

I can't help but think that if the plugs weren't thought to bring some benefit to the operation of the car that the engineers who designed them would not have provided a hole to put them in.

These rubber plugs are not SS or chrome to be viewed from the outside, so they must be functional - or Cadillac would not have made them, or installed them.

Unless like the left handed lug nuts found on the driver's side of the car - it sounded good at the time - until they found later, not so much.

By the way, how far back do these rubber plugs go into the drum or backing plate
And, how far back were left handed lug nuts used and then abandoned.

Have fun,
Steve B.