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What to do first after purchasing a 1951 Cadillac?

Started by polonus, May 28, 2015, 01:35:37 PM

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polonus

I just bought 1951 Cadillac Series 62 sedan. Car is in decent condition, has few flaws, but I need it for an (almost) daily transportation, not for a shows.  What should I do before I start driving this car?

For last 6 months it was sitting at the dealer's lot. Before that for 20 years was at some garage sitting and collecting dust. Rarely ever driven.  One of the valves/valve lifters makes clicking noise and needs replacement or adjustment. Brakes are weak - I am not sure if that just the way they are, or there is some problem with them.

I understand that I have to change oil. Should I also change it in transmission? What kind of oil that 4-speed automatic uses? What about differential and braking system? Should I leave braking system in original state, go for power brakes or change it to discs?  Haw to d this and what would be the cost?

Speedometer is  about 30% off and odometer doesn't work. What could be the reason for that? What kind of fuel mileage I can expect in that car?

From tailpipe car is blowing blackish smog and some oily black residue. Is that something of a carburetor adjustment problem? Thanks for any advice.
In my garage:
1951 Cadillac Series 62 sedan
1972 Mercury Cougar XR7
1988 Fiat 126p
2008 BMW M3 with ESS Supercharger
2014 BMW 328 - my wife's
2 of 2015 Nissan Leafs - my kid's

James Landi

 You want to make this car ROAD WORTHY, and that's a significant investment. I'd take a compression test on the engine first...in this regard, you'll know if the engine's internals require significant work  (valves and rings). If you have major engine work required, you might wish to "rethink" your goals.  If the compression test is good, then, begin with a careful inspection of the frame, steel brake and gasoline lines, and front end and rear suspension parts.  If ok,  then I'd suggest concentrating on the  brakes-- make sure that the brake lines are not rusted and ready to blow.  Then take off the drums, and I'd expect to have  the entire brake system renewed  (new wheel cylinders,brake shoes, and, of course, brake oil) Have the wheel bearings repack as well.   So if you have a good engine, and the brakes, steering and frame are good, that's the starting point... for a daily driver, with a good  frame and front end steering components carefully inspected, expect to need a new radiator, hoses, (likely need a water pump) and yes, transmission oil. AND a complete tune up  You might budget around $2,500. IF all the basics are in acceptable condition. Even if the car has been stored well, and has low mileage, parts can rust, create hidden defects.  Please consider safety as your highest priority.   

ebuliavac

I would second everything said so far.  Black and not blue smoke could be because the car has been sitting; also a carb adjustment or both.  Speedo and odometer issues suggest cables not hooked up or worn.  Ensure your emergency brake system is in good condition too.  I don't know about gas mileage.  Let us know.  Ed Buliavac
1940 6227C
1996 Fleetwood Brougham

RPangborn

Yes make sure the car is safe and reliable.  Just curious.  What do you mean by daily driver?
77 Eldorado
79 Coupe deVille

curly

I've been working on my 50 S62 lately, just got it road worthy a week or so ago.  Since you have single circuit brake system, I would strongly advise that brake work be the #1 thing that you do.  I replaced the M/C, all 4 wheel cylinders, all brake shoes and rubber lines.  The car stops fine, I don't have any issues with it so it will stay as is for now.  A dual M/C set up is in the future if I keep the car.

The black smoke is most likely stuck metering rods.  The rods sit in the "up" or full fuel position when the engine is off.  Engine vacuum pulls them down.  Since the car has been sitting, the vacuum piston is most likely gummed up and not allowing the metering rods to move.  I had that problem.  Once the carb was rebuilt I found the mechanical link that lifts the metering rods to allow more fuel (linked to accelerator) was broken.  I was lucky enough to find a shop that could repair that part.  You can do an inspection of the metering rods and the link by removing the 2 screws from the dust cover, top, front of the carb. Metering rods should move freely up and down when pushed by hand and should go down when the engine starts.  A rebuild kit from "The carburetor shop" is a good thing to buy.

I have changed my oil several times since I got the car. I am using Rotella 15w30 for the zinc additive.  I haven't changed my ATF yet, but then I have only put about 40 miles total on the car since I've owned it, 35 of those this week.  ;D  Dexron III is the oil everyone seems to recommend, so that is what I topped off with.  Remember that there is a drain plug on the torque convertor as well as the trans oil pan.

I did change the gear oil, but I had a bad pinion seal so I really had no choice.  Stuff in there was nasty!!

A little marvel mystery oil in the crankcase when you change the oil might help that lifter.  Once I got my engine running after a long time sitting, the more it ran, the better it got.
Finally, get your self a factory service manual.  I bought one off of Ebay for $40 or so, came on a DVD with the 1951 supplement. It has a lot of info on it you can use.

T Lewis


polonus

Thanks for your advice. It helps a lot.

Quote from: RPangborn on May 28, 2015, 06:09:15 PM
Yes make sure the car is safe and reliable.  Just curious.  What do you mean by daily driver?

I have three personal cars: 600 HP 2008 Supercharged M3, 1988 Fiat 126p with 2 cylinder, air cooled 23 HP engine and a 1951 Cadillac. I drive them all locally, to work, church or for shopping. If I have to go any  further distances, M3 is a car of my choice.

In my garage:
1951 Cadillac Series 62 sedan
1972 Mercury Cougar XR7
1988 Fiat 126p
2008 BMW M3 with ESS Supercharger
2014 BMW 328 - my wife's
2 of 2015 Nissan Leafs - my kid's

James Landi

Look as if you purchased a beautiful Cadillac... Many of us would truly appreciate seeing more pictures of it.  Looks to be better "than average" (as you initially describe it); so please, more details about its history,and more pictures, if you care to regale us.   Thanks, James

Jay Friedman

If you need to rebuild your carburetor, I agree with Curly that a rebuilding kit from The Carburetor Shop, Eldon, Missouri is the best.  Curly mentioned you may have a problem with the metering rods, and kits from this shop, www.thecarburetorshop.com, are apparently the only ones that include the metering rod jets. 
1949 Cadillac 6107 Club Coupe
1932 Ford V8 Phaeton (restored, not a rod).  Sold
Decatur, Georgia
CLC # 3210, since 1984
"If it won't work, get a bigger hammer."

polonus

Quote from: Jay Friedman on May 29, 2015, 11:50:14 AM
If you need to rebuild your carburetor, I agree with Curly that a rebuilding kit from The Carburetor Shop, Eldon, Missouri is the best.  Curly mentioned you may have a problem with the metering rods, and kits from this shop, www.thecarburetorshop.com, are apparently the only ones that include the metering rod jets.

Thanks for the tip. I would check them out.

Quote from: James Landi on May 29, 2015, 09:56:23 AM
Look as if you purchased a beautiful Cadillac... Many of us would truly appreciate seeing more pictures of it.  Looks to be better "than average" (as you initially describe it); so please, more details about its history,and more pictures, if you care to regale us.   Thanks, James

With pleasure:

         

I already put some seat covers, before I made any pictures, but I have several videos on YT. My YT channel is in Polish, however images don't need any translators.  ;D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YieVnYD6zHM

In my garage:
1951 Cadillac Series 62 sedan
1972 Mercury Cougar XR7
1988 Fiat 126p
2008 BMW M3 with ESS Supercharger
2014 BMW 328 - my wife's
2 of 2015 Nissan Leafs - my kid's

curly

My comments regarding the metering rods were based on the assumption that the factory carb was still in place. From the pics you posted, it looks like a Rochester 2bbl carb has been installed.  If so, then that carb doesn't use metering rods, it has a power piston and power valve IIRC.
Same thing applies, the valve and or piston may be stuck after sitting for  a while.  Those parts are internal, so you will have to open up the carb to check them out.
Also, the Rochester carb has larger bores and is designed to flow more cfm than the factory carb. It may be too much carb for the engine and that might be the source of the black smoke. It may be necessary to rejet the rochester to a smaller size.  I had considered making that exact change (carb swap) but was able to get my carburetor straightened out before then.

T Lewis

James Landi

Lovely looking, and appears to be "sitting" at the right height all around.  COngratulations on a terrific purchase.  This looks like a great car, (from the pictures-- any history ?).  Get it safety checked! Make sure the engine temp, oil pressure, and cylinder compression are good, and yes, change all of the fluids.  Thanks so much for sharing the pictures.   James

55 cadi

Great looking Cadillac,

One more thing that I didn't see or missed in reading is the gas tank, if it has had gas for a long time then you may want to check the tank for corrosion, you go through the effort of rebuilding the carb to have bad gas and sediment going into The carb to cause problems and have to rebuild it.

Jason
1955 Cadillac sedan series 62
1966 mustang convertible w/pony PAC, now in Sweden
2005 Cadillac deville

RPangborn

Quote from: polonus on May 29, 2015, 12:07:40 AM
Thanks for your advice. It helps a lot.

I have three personal cars: 600 HP 2008 Supercharged M3, 1988 Fiat 126p with 2 cylinder, air cooled 23 HP engine and a 1951 Cadillac. I drive them all locally, to work, church or for shopping. If I have to go any  further distances, M3 is a car of my choice.



Bravo! I think its fantastic that you use your Cadillac as an "everyday" car.  Most, for one reason or another, use their cars of this vintage, only for "special" occasions i.e. car shows, cruise ins etc., not that there is anything wrong with that.  I am sure you get countless looks of amazement at the local supermarket.
77 Eldorado
79 Coupe deVille

Jay Friedman

#13
Quote from: curly on May 29, 2015, 04:20:29 PM
My comments regarding the metering rods were based on the assumption that the factory carb was still in place. From the pics you posted, it looks like a Rochester 2bbl carb has been installed.  If so, then that carb doesn't use metering rods, it has a power piston and power valve IIRC.
Same thing applies, the valve and or piston may be stuck after sitting for  a while.  Those parts are internal, so you will have to open up the carb to check them out.
Also, the Rochester carb has larger bores and is designed to flow more cfm than the factory carb. It may be too much carb for the engine and that might be the source of the black smoke. It may be necessary to rejet the rochester to a smaller size.  I had considered making that exact change (carb swap) but was able to get my carburetor straightened out before then.

T Lewis

If that is the 2 barrel Rochester Model BB carburetor that Cadillac used on some cars in 1951, I agree with T Lewis that your motor may be "over-carbureted" and is causing the black smoke.  However, in my opinion that Rochester BB carburetor is inferior to the 2 barrel Carter WCD Model 845S that was also used on 51 Cadillacs.  Though it is no doubt difficult to do in Europe, my suggestion would be to find a Carter carburetor in good condition and install it in place of the Rochester. 

I also considered switching from a Carter to a Rochester some years ago and went to the extent of buying a Rochester.  However, I could never get it to perform correctly--I forget exactly why--and went back with the Carter.  The Carter WCD 2 barrel was the state of the art in 1951 (before 4 barrel carburetors were introduced in '52) and was used on many cars of that era besides Cadillac.
1949 Cadillac 6107 Club Coupe
1932 Ford V8 Phaeton (restored, not a rod).  Sold
Decatur, Georgia
CLC # 3210, since 1984
"If it won't work, get a bigger hammer."