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!959 model 62 front brake drums

Started by R S Steven, July 25, 2015, 11:39:25 AM

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R S Steven

Hi All,
I received new front drake drums yesterday and I have a question about them. They came without the hubs.  So here is my questions:
1) Did I receive the wrong parts?
or
2) Can the old hubs be pressed out of the old drums and be pressed on to the new drums?

Thanks
Rob

P.S. I changed my driveshaft center bearing and everything is working great.  Thanks for the help with it.

The Tassie Devil(le)

Yes.   The studs require pressing out, and then the drum can be removed.

But, in pressing out the studs, it can be done in two ways.   Simply forcing them out, or getting a cutter that trims off the retaining "ears"  that were pressed into them to hold the drum in place.

Not sure if new studs are available, but when reinstalled, there needs to be a way of reinstating the retaining "ears".

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

R S Steven

Thanks Bruce
New studs are available but they are only RH threads.  So I would have to change the rears too.
Thanks,
Rob

The Tassie Devil(le)

You can leave the rears as LH, but these days, there is no reason to run LH threads.

The '60 rent to all RH threads.

Just remember on your car, you have something different.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

59-in-pieces

Rob,
There are sources of LH studs - requires looking.
However, it is important - RH or LH - that the spline area of the stud is the proper length.
I have attached a pic showing the hub separated from the drum, with the proper studs still in place.
I have also shown a close up of a stud which just barely shows the end of the splines through the hob plate.
Another pic showing 2 studs, with a wrong stud where the splines do not go to the threads next to a proper stud.
If the length of the spline area is not correct, the shoulder may go beyond the backing plate of the hub.
If that is the case, when the wheel is attached to the hub, the lug nuts will try to pull the excess shoulder on the stud trough the holes in the wheel itself - making the holes tapered outward and the wheel - though tight - will not be square with the hub.
And seen from the front or rear of the tire, while it spins, will bobble.
Long story short - make sure the studs - RH or LH - are the same as the OEM in the front hub OR the axle flange for the rear wheels.
EYEBALL - MEASURE TO BE SURE.
Lastly, I would not leave one set of studs LH, and replace the other set with RH.
Given the power of the newer impact wrenches at tire shops - and the lack of knowledge of the guys using them - about LH studs - they will set the gun for "lefty loosy" - and spin the nuts the wrong way, and destroy the LH threads of the stud.
If you can't find the OEM LH replacements, change all 10 to RH.
Have fun,
Steve B.
S. Butcher

R S Steven

I'll Change the LH to RH threads.
The pictures are a great help
Thanks Bruce & Steve.
Rob