Yet another engine id request

[Keith]

Hi, gents (and ladies).

I recently (late June this summer) came into possession of a drivetrain from a 1949 Cadillac limo, or at least that's what my Dad's two younger brothers are telling me (Dad is with Jesus now).

First a little of the back story as it has been told to me: All three brothers are/were serious and smart car guys, and after my older sister and I were born, and Dad and Mom moved away to the nearby Big City, they left their 1942 Ford Deluxe Tudor sedan back at the farm, where Dad's two younger brothers couldn't resist screwing with it. They removed the Ford drivetrain and dropped in everything from a neighbor's unused Cadillac limousine, since it would add a bunch of horsepower (relatively speaking). Then, before they got it driving in its new home, they both got drafted in quick succession and never finished it. THAT is what I just trailered to Colorado two months ago.

Now the engine is freed up, and I've made sure that none of the push rods or valves are stuck. Next would be turning over the engine with the starter, and it occurs to me that it would nice to have (buy or make) new valve cover gaskets soon, but I'm not absolutely sure what this engine is - primarily because there are numerous small differences between what authorities like you all here on this forum, the "Ultimate American V-8 Engine Data Book - 1949-1974" by Peter C. Sessler", and early motor heads all over the web are saying. So it appears that I will have to ask for help identifying this engine in order to acquire the proper new parts going forward.

First off, the valve covers are held in place by two bolts through the top and center, rather than four around the outside edge, but also only some of the casting numbers for manifolds and heads are found in any early Cadillac tables I have found online.

If you think you can help me please take a look at my album of documenting photos here: https://goo.gl/photos/BBZcntX9JN2Gzdoc6

Newer photos, where I got inside the valve covers, are at the bottom of the album.

What do you think?

Thanks!

Keith

[Joe G 12138]

Looks like the "Early" '49 Cad 331 to me.   Joe Gibeault.

[Steve Passmore]

That engine number confirms its a 1949 Cadillac 75 series engine.

[Keith]

Thanks, guys.

You don't sound concerned that the other numbers cast into heads and manifolds don't show up in a list from any authority - so I shouldn't be either. Am I hearing you correctly?

If so then I can let it go, except I can't tell which valve cover gaskets I should specify when trying to buy because of the different bolt pattern from the standard.

I just tried to crank it over with starter connected directly to battery, but it's an open circuit. Given how hard it is to get to I believe I'm going to pull the starter and work on it on the bench. Challenges! Joy!

I truly appreciate your brains, experience, and willingness to help.

Keith

[Jay Friedman]

As Steve and Joe said, it's an early '49 engine with 2 bolts in the center of the valve cover rather than 4 around the perimeter. 

From the number on the Hydra-matic transmission, it seems it is from a '50 Cadillac, though they are identical with '49 Hydra-matics. 

You can get valve cover gaskets from Olsen's Gaskets in Washington state.  I'm not sure if they sell early '49 valve cover gaskets.  If they don't you'll have to trim the gaskets slightly to fit your valve covers. 

[Keith]

Gentlemen, the starter, solenoid, and relay all work well (even with 12 volts), and all valves, pushrods, etc. are working freely.

It's time to get the valve covers back on for the winter. My 1954 Olds has priority, so I haven't even fired this 331 up yet. I want to make sure it's buttoned up before moisture flies though, so the valve covers must be gasketed properly back in place, and I'm getting the inner fenders bolted back on around the engine for additional protection.

Any suggestions or experience to offer on the valve cover gaskets, since the manual doesn't seem to cover this topic? (I have Faxon CD, and the manual it reproduces says "Printed in U.S.A. 12M--3-49". I'm not sure why it doesn't mention type of gasket, desired cement, etc.

I'm planning on using RTV on the corks, if no one has found a reason not to.

Thanks!

[Jay Friedman]

Gasket cement is not essential on '49 valve covers.  If you do put some on use ordinary cement, nothing special like RTV is needed, and put it only on the surface facing the valve covers, not the surface facing the block.  This way you'll be able to remove the covers easily in the future. 

Buy the gaskets from www.olsonsgaskets.com.  Even if they are late '49 valve cover gaskets, they can still be used with your early motor by trimming them slightly.  You'll easily see how you have to trim them when you get the gaskets.

To make sure the oil flows well, with the covers off you'll see at one end of each head (at the front of one head and the rear of the other) a small--maybe a ¼" in diameter--oil drain hole.  Make sure these are not clogged.  If they are you can clean them by poking a rod through them.  Maybe a pencil or drill bit would work. 

[Jon S]

Looks like some nice Lincolns there - especially the 1956.

[2manycars]

Looks like some nice Lincolns there - especially the 1956.

Yeah, I spotted those right off too. I really like the 70. Man that thing looks brand new!

[Keith]

Thanks for the gasket recommendations, Jay. I think I'll go with what you said, especially since I hardly need or want the installation to be permanent and can re-do better anytime necessary. The cheap corks I got were actually about $5-7 for the pair.

Also it was great to hear the positive comments on the Lincolns that Dad left us. I don't think we have a home yet for the Premiere and the Capri. My younger siblings have some sort of a shared ownership of the 70 (71?). Let's see if I can find another picture of that one.....

[Jay Friedman]

Keith, you mentioned that the gaskets you got were "cheap corks".  I would be careful with those gaskets since, for example, if they have been sitting around on a shelf for a lengthy time they tend to dry up, get hard and shrink.  Good ones are not much more than what you paid.

Hold them up to the gasket surface on the valve cover to see if they have shrunk.  If so, you can sometimes restore them to the right size by laying them at one end of an old towel in a sink or outdoors.  Fold the other end of the towel over the gaskets.  Boil a couple of quarts of water in a tea kettle or pot and pour the hot water evenly over the towel and gaskets.  Wait a few minutes then take out the gaskets and if you are lucky they are now back to the correct size.  (The towel is just to distribute the hot water evenly over the gaskets.) 

[Keith]

Thanks for the ideas, Jay.

My "corks" were Fel-Pro's VS5392.

oreilly.com is telling me that I paid more like $24 for the pair. I'm getting some purchases mixed up, I guess.

They fit the under- in-side flange of the covers perfectly after I razored off the tabs for the late 1949 331 redesign, and also the outsides of each of the four bolt holes. The operation went smoothly.

Keith