Reseting temp/fuel gauge needles

[Evan Wojtkiewicz]

I'm restoring the gauge cluster in my '67 (check out my thread in the Restoration Corner!), and in beginning to refinish the temp gauge I had to pull the needle out to repaint. Trouble is, I can't remember where exactly the needle was when I removed it. I think it was somewhere in the center, but I obviously want it to be as precise as possible.

[savemy67]

Hello Evan,

According to the '67 shop manual, the temp and fuel gauges use balanced needle construction.  This means that when the gauges are not energized, the needles could come to rest anywhere on the scale.  You would have to duplicate the circuits for each gauge, and energize them, in order to correctly locate the needles if they are not keyed to their respective shafts.  This can be done with the aid of the shop manual, but you have to be very careful, as well as orienting the gauge the way it is installed in the car.

Christopher Winter

[Evan Wojtkiewicz]

Thanks Chris. I can't believe that they have something about that in the shop manual: too bad I left mine in my car at the storage place. I'll pick it up this week and take a look at it. I was thinking about having it done by a professional, it wouldn't hurt to have them bench tested. I called Bob's Speedometer, and they wanted $250 to service (test+grease+set the odometer) my NOS speedometer, so I know it won't be cheap.

[savemy67]

Hello Evan,

Be sure to read the appropriate sections of the shop manual completely before attempting to duplicate the circuits out of the car (sections 12-10 and 12-16).  The shop manual procedures assume the gauges are in the car.  You will have to use your technical skills to duplicate the circuits out of the car.  The The temp gauge should be easier than the fuel gauge because cold is the default state.  You will have to configure the fuel gauge circuit to duplicate either empty or full unless you want to wrestle with the sending unit wires at the rear of the car.

Christopher Winter

[bcroe]

I'm restoring the gauge cluster in my '67 (check out my thread in the Restoration Corner!), and in beginning to refinish the temp gauge I had to pull the needle out to repaint. Trouble is, I can't remember where exactly the needle was when I removed it. I think it was somewhere in the center, but I obviously want it to be as precise as possible. 

I agree with the idea of emulating the car wiring.  I think your fuel tank sending
is 90 ohms, if so get a couple 90 ohm resistors.  The gauge likely has 3
terminals for battery, ground, and tank wire.  Connect battery & ground (14V
would be ideal).  Connect the 2 resistors in parallel for 45 ohms, a half full
resistance; connect them from the tank terminal to ground.  Try the needle
at half.  Then remove one resistor to see 90 ohms and read F; short the
tank wire to ground and see E. 

This should fix the gauge, but the factory usually didn't put in a tank
unit that tells the truth.  It will read F for a long time, then drop like a
rock.  You can correct this "psychology" and get a really accurate
gauge by changing the float arm length & angle.  Details on album
SPEEDOMETERS & GAUGES on my PHOTOBUCKET. 
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good luck, BRUCE ROE                                  bcroe@juno.com