News:

Due to a technical issue, some recently uploaded pictures have been lost. We are investigating why this happened but the issue has been resolved so that future uploads should be safe.  You can also Modify your post (MORE...) and re-upload the pictures in your post.

Main Menu

Advancing Flathead Distributor one tooth

Started by 48caddymn, April 01, 2016, 10:25:04 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

48caddymn

With all of the help from this forum on previous posts, I was able to get the replacement 1948 Flathead and Hydra installed in my Caddy. Pushed the ignition button and the engine fired right up and ran fairly well.  When I went to set the timing, I ran out of adjustment in the distributor to get the timing to advance to the proper setting.  So I need to pull the distributor up a few inches and move the rotor clockwise one tooth.  Lifting the distributor and moving the rotor one tooth seems like the easy part, but what is the best method to get the oil pump to line back up again.  Do I move the rotor one tooth and set the distributor back down until the gears mesh and "tap" the starter until the distributor shaft aligns with the oil pump and drops in, or do I use a socket on the front of the crank shaft bolt and slowly turn the motor by hand??  I really don't want to fully remove the distributor and try to turn the oil pump clockwise slightly with a long screwdriver to allow the distributor to drop in all the way.  What method is the easiest or best to get the oil pump lined up with the distributor shaft??  THANKS in advance

Dan


Steve Passmore

Don't go tapping anything Dan. Get the distributor to just where you want it and lower it in . The bronze gear will mean it turns slightly as it engages so allow for this when starting the decent. When its engaged with the gear but not with the oil pump the tower will be standing about 1/4" off the block. Keep a light pressure on the tower while someone else slowly turns over the motor and you will feel it drop in.
Steve

Present
1937 60 convertible coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe
1941 62 coupe

Previous
1936 70 Sport coupe
1937 85 series V12 sedan
1938 60 coupe
1938 50 coupe
1939 60S
1940 62 coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe x2
1941 61 coupe
1941 61 sedan x2
1941 62 sedan x2
1947 62 sedan
1959 62 coupe

48caddymn

That seems like the safest method Steve; thank you! 

Bobby B

#3
Dan,
Hi. Bobby Again…Line up your timing mark up exactly on the pulley by hand with a socket/breaker bar. Take the distributor cap off to make sure you're on the firing stroke by noting that the rotor is near the #1 position on your cap.  Make a mental note of which way you need to re-clock the distributor when setting it back down. Pull the distributor straight up and out, noting which way you need to move it to get it into the position you want when you go to set it back down, taking into consideration the movement in order to mesh with your gear. You'll see this amount when you pull it out. Take a long straight blade screwdriver and move the oil pump slotted shaft to the approximate position that it needs to be in when it falls into place. Try setting the distributor back in to see if it's going to fall into it's new position (rotor/#1 tower) of where it needs to be. You can test this even if you don't have it set all the way into the shaft, because it only takes another 1/4" to get it back into the oil pump shaft. If it doesn't mesh with the oil pump shaft the first time, don't force it. Just pull it out again and turn the shaft ever so slightly in the direction it needs to go. If you happen to get it on the first shot, go down to the Wa-Wa and get a lottery ticket, and I get half if you win ;D……DO NOT turn the engine over once you pull the distributor out. No need to. This process doesn't involve anything needing to move once the pulley is lined up with the timing cover pointer…..It might take you a few tries, but you"ll get the hang of it.
                                                                                                                        Bobby
P.S. Steve, didn't mean to step on you, I was one finger typing when it said someone else posted. :o
1947 Cadillac Series 62 Convertible Coupe
1968 Mustang Convertible
1973 Mustang Convertible
1969 Jaguar E-Type Roadster
1971 Datsun 240Z
1979 H-D FLH

Bob Schuman

When you do the procedure that Steve and Bob have described, you need to unbolt the tower from the engine block, not remove the distributor from the top of the tower. The tower shaft is gear driven from the camshaft, so you cannot accomplish what you want by just removing the distributor. You have to pull the tower up as they described, to disengage its gear to allow moving it one tooth in relation to the camshaft. The distributor can only go into the top of the tower shaft one way, no reorienting there ia possible.
Bob Schuman
Bob Schuman, CLC#254
2017 CT6-unsatisfactory (repurchased by GM)
2023 XT5

Steve Passmore

 If it doesn't mesh with the oil pump shaft the first time, don't force it. Just pull it out again and turn the shaft ever so slightly in the direction it needs to go. If you happen to get it on the first shot, go down to the Wa-Wa and get a lottery ticket, and I get half if you win ;D……DO NOT turn the engine over once you pull the distributor out. No need to. This process doesn't involve anything needing to move once the pulley is lined up with the timing cover pointer…..It might take you a few tries, but you"ll get the hang of it.
                                                                                                                        Bobby
P.S. Steve, didn't mean to step on you, I was one finger typing when it said someone else posted. :o
[/quote]

Bobby. I have been doing it that way for 20 years until last year when after the 10th attempt that dang oil pump drive would just not mesh. After a cup of tea a light bulb switched on. When the timing is set at you described and the tower is back in except for that last 1/4" there's nothing wrong with turning the engine because the distributor is locked at that point with the camshaft and the tower pops in with less than a 1/4 revolution of the engine.
Each to his own but for me it was a Eureka moment.
I have even know owners here taking off the oil pan and re-aligning the pump!!
Steve

Present
1937 60 convertible coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe
1941 62 coupe

Previous
1936 70 Sport coupe
1937 85 series V12 sedan
1938 60 coupe
1938 50 coupe
1939 60S
1940 62 coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe x2
1941 61 coupe
1941 61 sedan x2
1941 62 sedan x2
1947 62 sedan
1959 62 coupe

Bobby B

Quote from: Steve Passmore on April 01, 2016, 02:30:17 PM


Bobby. I have been doing it that way for 20 years until last year when after the 10th attempt that dang oil pump drive would just not mesh. After a cup of tea a light bulb switched on. When the timing is set at you described and the tower is back in except for that last 1/4" there's nothing wrong with turning the engine because the distributor is locked at that point with the camshaft and the tower pops in with less than a 1/4 revolution of the engine.
Each to his own but for me it was a Eureka moment.
I have even know owners here taking off the oil pan and re-aligning the pump!!

Steve,
You are correct, and I just learned something new. Old Dog, New Tricks  ;D. If you noticed in Dan's post, he wanted to "tap" the Starter. :o :o :o. I was just trying to help him out before something went "Snap"…. :o.  Your method of getting the shaft to drop that last 1/4" is a good one. I would think you might need someone holding a little pressure on the tower, while the other is ever so slightly trying to find the "sweet spot" by fiddling with the crank pulley. Good Deal…..
                                                                                                          Bobby
1947 Cadillac Series 62 Convertible Coupe
1968 Mustang Convertible
1973 Mustang Convertible
1969 Jaguar E-Type Roadster
1971 Datsun 240Z
1979 H-D FLH

48caddymn

Steve and Bobby,

It took me longer to remove the cap and plug wires than actually moving the distributor.  After I removed the two bolts holding the distributor to the block, I raised the tower up and turned the rotor slightly to the right and set it back down. Like you guys mentioned, it was up a 1/4 because it was not lined up with the oil pump; rotated the crankshaft nut on the front of the engine slowly and it dropped right in.  Tightened everything up, put the cap and wires back on and it fired right up.

The engine runs very smooth with 28 pounds of oil pressure at idle and 15 pounds of vacuum.  However, the mechanical and the old electric fuel pump both are very tired to I'm going to get the fuel pump rebuilt and buy a new Airtex 8011 6 volt auxiliary fuel pump   The Hydramatic transmission shifts into drive and reverse on jack stands but I won't know if it functions until the road test in a few weeks.

Thanks again guys...

Dan

Bobby B

Dan,
Hey, Nice Going!. Something went right for a change!  >:D.  I'm sure Steve will be checking in  soon and also happy that you made out OK.
                            Bobby
1947 Cadillac Series 62 Convertible Coupe
1968 Mustang Convertible
1973 Mustang Convertible
1969 Jaguar E-Type Roadster
1971 Datsun 240Z
1979 H-D FLH