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1959 Cadillac 390 4 Piece Oil Pan Gasket Instalation

Started by Coupe Deville, April 16, 2016, 04:41:18 PM

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Coupe Deville

Hello everyone.

Could someone please give me the proper procedure to re-installing the oil pan to a 390? I had a hell of a time trying to get it bolted back up to the top of the motor last week. The two long pan gaskets were fine, but the other two thick cork gaskets at the front and back end are a night mare. I just could not get those things to stay in place and seat properly. Your pretty much working blind with those two end cork seals. I know the back one didn't seat correctly because there was about a half inch gap between the block and the oil pan and it would not push up any higher, even though it was on the studs. So I've got to take it back down again and clean up all of the silicone that's dried up by now. I love the 390, but I really hate this 4 piece oil pan gasket. Any help would be appreciated. 

Thank you
-Gavin Myers CLC Member #27431
"The 59' Cadillac says more about America than a whole trunk full of history books, It was the American Dream"

Bobby B

Gavin,
   A. I hate silicone. Don't even keep it in my shop. The Right stuff by Permatex is the best, but not for any application that needs some additional work time. My #1 choice would be Permatex #2 Non-hardening, with Permatex Aviation Sealer a close second. The Permatex #2 will give you positioning time as opposed to silicone. Never had anything leak in almost 40 years using it. I assume your working upside down, and that's what's giving you a hard time and getting you frustrated?  >:(….  Try scraping off the old silicone, and clean the residue off real good with some kind of chemical of your choice. Why not throw some guide studs along the rails to help you get it into position a little easier and quicker? I would put a nice even wipe of Permatex #2 on both sides of the gaskets, let them tack off, and position them up on your block surface. Then add a dab of sealer in the four corners where they meet before you get your pan ready to go up against the block. Make sure you don't over-tighten any of the bolts and distort the gasket. I would also make sure my holes in the pan were dimpled back down, just in case any previous owner(s) got heavy handed with the ratchet. Good Luck!
                                 Bobby
1947 Cadillac Series 62 Convertible Coupe
1968 Mustang Convertible
1973 Mustang Convertible
1969 Jaguar E-Type Roadster
1971 Datsun 240Z
1979 H-D FLH

MY 59

I dont recall having this issue on my 390, however not sure what brand gaskets you are using as I imagine there may be some cheap and cheerful ones around
on my rebuild I had a felpro set, and used a flexible adhesive sealant on them to the engine block, let it tack off and the the sump dropped straight on (motor upside down on engine stand)
fitted like a glove :)

my issue was a previous owner/mechanic thought they were Arnold Schwarzenegger when they tightened my rocker covers and mushroomed the bolt holes, a few taps here and there sorted that though
Best of luck and hope it goes well for you

David Bone :)

1959 Cadillac Sedan Deville
1967 (aussie) ZA ford Fairlane

Roger Zimmermann

I hate silicone too!
Sometimes the end seals are too long and must be trimmed. I replaced the rear crankshaft seals from my cars so I know it's never a pleasure to install the oil pan when the car is on jack stands, but it's possible!
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

Coupe Deville

Hello again,

Yes, I should have made that more clear in the beginning. I am working with the engine inside the car. I'm using the black permetex sealer. I called it silicone because I couldn't remember the name. The two long parallel gaskets stay in place on top of the pan no problem, its just the two cork front and back pieces. I did have to trim them to get them to the right lengthen. The real question is, should those two cork pieces (the ones that sit on the rear main bearing cap, and the bottom of the timing chain cover) be placed on the main cap and timing chain bottom, and then the pan pushed up in place, or have the two cork pieces be put on the pan and then the pan be pushed up into place? Did that make any sense? I tried to get them to stay in place while I pushed the pan up and I could not get them to seat properly.
-Gavin Myers CLC Member #27431
"The 59' Cadillac says more about America than a whole trunk full of history books, It was the American Dream"

Walter Youshock

I always put a thin coat of gas key shellac on the bearing surface of the gasket, push it into place as best I can on the ends forming the "U", then install the pan.  I don't cut the gaskets, though.  The pan should push them the rest of the way into the bearing groove.
CLC #11959 (Life)
1957 Coupe deVille
1991 Brougham

Roger Zimmermann

Quote from: Coupe Deville on April 18, 2016, 04:15:54 PM
... or have the two cork pieces be put on the pan and then the pan be pushed up into place?
It's like trying to put eggs on a stick as we say in French. The cork pieces must be pushed into the channels and then the pan is coming into place.
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101