1979 Coupe vinyl top removal

[NickD]

Hi Group

I have a 1979 Coupe with the ½ cabriolet vinyl top, which I would like to remove. I have the following questions:

1.   Is there just padding under the vinyl or is there some type of plastic/foam shell that the vinyl goes over?
2.   If it is some type of shell, will I be able to salvage it or do I also need to replace it?
3.   Once the top is completely removed will there be the traditional metal trim around the rear window glass?
4.   Is there a way to remove top with minimal damage to the trim and clips?

Thanks

[Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621]

The factory Cabriolet vinyl roof is padded with a fiber material and there is no "shell" as with full-roof simulated convertible style tops.

The best way to reduce chances of damaging the clips and garnish trim is using the proper tools, however at near 40 years old, certainly the chance exists for some of the plastic clips to break apart when disturbed. Fortunately these are usually available at most body shop supply stores.

Are you attempting to replace the vinyl roof?

[James Landi]

I did successfully remove the factory "shell" on my '83 Eldorado "roadster."  The shell is fiberglass matt reinforced with highly flexible resin...   the glue used to hold the shell on will "give" without splitting the shell, but be very careful to not overstress the shell.  There are several places along the rear windows and rear over the trunk where there will be rivets that need to be exposed and cut lose.  Take care to peel back the old finish cloth/vinyl material along the perimeter so you can expose any mechanical contact points.   Several suggestions for resurfacing with vinyl--- Sand down and make perfectly smooth all areas of the outside shell -- lumps and imperfections show through.  Don't try to use padding-- unless you have someone who is expert and experienced.  Don't use spray on glue-- use contact cement as directed on the can.  Have someone custom cut the material to fit-- sewing darts and sections to fit the shell is required.  Have someone help you glue the cloth/vinyl material to the shell.  COntact cement is not forgiving.  Re-gluing the shell to the roof requires a high end product that will adhere to metal... there's not much that holds the shell to the roof.  My wife and I had fun doing this (twice, once with padding--I won't go into details), the second time, it all work out beautifully.. we save around $2,000 doing it ourselves.  James

[NickD]

Not at this time, Eric. There is some surface rust on the left side at the beltline that needs to be fixed. And I just like the look without a vinyl top. However, if there is no chrome trim around the back glass, I guess I will have to replace the roof.

Thanks for the info, James.

[76eldo]

I'm sure you can find the rear window trim but you will have to fill in the holes around the belt line around the rear of the car.

We have fixed a few successfully by removing the molding at the base of the top, peeling up the vinyl, doing body and paint, gluing the top back down and replacing the molding.

If the top is shot it can be replaced obviously but the clips are special and fit on posts sticking up. The moldings slide on from the outsides and the clips have a flange on them.

Joe Caristo is an expert on these cars and we have done some of these jobs together.

Brian

[NickD]

Thanks Brian, I never gave it a thought about attempting to fix the body without replacing the top. The existing top is in excellent condition. I am thinking that your idea may be the way to go, or at least try.

[76eldo]

Your car is similar to the pics below.

From what I remember, we gently pried up the sides of the moldings on the sides of the car, then slid the moldings off of the clips that go on the panel above the trunk.

The clips have a lip on the top part of the clip that the moldings slide into, but the ones on the side pop back on with a tap from your palm.

If you have any missing posts you can rivet the clips back on.

The pics below are not too clear but I think you can make out what we did.

Joe and I took the moldings up, gently peeled back the top, cleaned the surface, and took the car to a body shop near my house.  The did the bodywork and paint, blowing in the black and clearing the full panel.  The repair came out great.

People will say we didn't do it right, you have to remove the top, get every last morsel of rust, and replace the top.  However, once you fix a spot and get all of the surface rust off, as long as the car is going to be garaged it will be fine.

If any of the rust was really bad we would have had to do more.  The car was sold not long after and still looks great.  It's now a wedding car in Norway.

The top had a few wrinkles in the bottom photo but after a few hours in the sun it settled down.

Brian

[NickD]

Thanks again, Brian. The first photo is exactly the extent of my surface rust issue. Your fix is what I am going to try. Have a great day.

[Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621]

Very difficult to prevent the rust blistering from recurring on cars that had rust repairs made at the base of the vinyl roof. Scrupulous care must be taken to remove all traces of rust; subsequently this area should not be allowed to get wet again. If it does, an air gun should be used to blow out trapped water as soon as possible.

Even at that, there is still no guarantee bubbling under the paint will not recur as witnessed by the black/red example that Brian has shown above.

[76eldo]

Here is a listing for some clips on ebay for you:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/77-92-NOS-Cadillac-Body-Side-Belt-Vinyl-Top-Moulding-Molding-Trim-Clips-10pcs-G-/121971337346?hash=item1c660ee882:g:gVwAAOSwvgdW4w-V&vxp=mtr


Brian