Removing radiator: how to plug transmission lines, and how much fluid?

[dochawk]

I'm gearing up to remove the radiator and replace the water pump, etc. on a 1972 Convertible.

The manual says to "plug the two transmission lines" after disconnecting.

Uhm???  Clay?  Wine cork?  What am I getting into here?

Also, how much fluid do I need to be ready to catch?   If I was done with the tank, I could back out into the driveway, but that isn't really an option at the moment.

Thanks

[chrisntam]

I recently pulled my radiator, I went to a locally owned auto parts store and purchased two brass 3/8" inverted flare plugs for the radiator.  Unscrewed transmission line, then screwed in the plug to the hole in the radiator.  I assume your transmission cooler lines are 3/8".  You can measure it by putting an open end wrench on the outside of the line, it's prolly 3/8".  That solves any fluid loss from the radiator.

For the lines, I used a plastic baggie and aluminum foil with a twisty tie to seal the lines but they still leaked some fluid.  Maybe there is a 3/8" brass "cap" you can purchase?  The plastic bag/foil was a failure.  Lost some fluid, not very much though.  Get a large drip pan, you'll likely catch more coolant on it than trans fluid.

I lost maybe a half of a cup, not much. 

Even after you drain the radiator of coolant, some still remains in the radiator.  I also used a plastic bag to prevent any coolant loss, but some still leaked out.  Perhaps a trip to Home Depot to go to the plumbing aisle to buy a short rubber cap, I think my radiator hoses were 1 1/2".

When you lift the radiator out, tilt it so the back side is facing up as much as possible so no fluid will drip out.

If you have a rubber splash shield that attaches to the bottom of the radiator, be sure to remove those connectors.  I followed the shop manual exactly, but it didn't mention those.

[bcroe]

You can cut off some lines going into a radiator at the junk yard, crimp
the tubing over pretty tightly for a seal, put them into the radiator as
the tube is removed.  I use trans fittings plugged, to screw the tubing
into.  A par of each.  Bruce Roe

[Scot Minesinger]

The trans lines at radiator connection are higher than the trans reservoir and not much fluid will leave the lines at radiator connections.  I never bother plugging them and just wipe up the few drops.  I'm sure paper towels would suffice. 

BTW on another associated issue the trans lines are 3/8" and the replacement radiators I see only have 5/16" female flare thread connections, so you may need adaptors to manage the change out (got mine in brass at NAPA).  Keep the 3/8 lines, do not recommend replacing with 5/16".  If you re-cored yours then no worries on this issue.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I also don't bother to attempt to plug the Trans Cooler lines when removing the Radiator.

The process of simply removing the lines from the radiator will always let out the oil that is in the cooler section of the Radiator, as there is no way of stopping it when removing the fittings.

The only thing I might do is simply, after the radiator is removed, slide a short length (12" plus) of tubing over each end of the pipes to stop grit entering whilst cleaning the engine bay.

Bruce.

[chorusguy]

Seems I read somewhere you could plug the transmission lines with a golf tee.
Good luck.  Let us know what you discover.

Robert W Cox

[TJ Hopland]

Golf tees works well on vacuum lines and seems like they may work on the trans lines too.   I have also heard about using the soft foam like ear plugs like they had out at a rock concert.   You roll those in your fingers to smush them then jam em in and they expand.

I'm in the usually don't do anything camp.  I'm more concerned about getting crap in the lines than keeping fluid in them. 

There should be enough room to do the water pump without removing the radiator.   If you are going after the timing chain then more room is good. 

On the water pump watch out for the 3? 7/16 head bolts.  They only thread into the timing cover which is very thin.  More often than not someone in the past overdid those and they are barely hanging on.   If you have the timing cover off weld some nuts to the back of the cover.  You can't tell from the outside and will never have to worry about them again.   IF the cover is not off and you have an issue I have been told that the metric equivalent to a 1/4-20 is slightly bigger enough that if you are careful it will grip.  I think its a M6x1.