Saw this for sale at the Pate Swap Meet - '55 Coupe Deville, asking $9500

[chrisntam]

Surface rust all over the exterior, interior completely shot, motor may turn, floor pans rusted through.  Guy said it was 100% complete, but EVERYTHING needs to be gone through.

$9500?

Seems like it should be about $2000.

Your thoughts?  I'm not a buyer, just curious....

[Dan LeBlanc]

I'd say about $5000.  The wheels seem to be in nice condition and there's about $1500-2000 right there.

[g27g28]

The wheels are wire hub caps not real wires.   Plus side is it's a Coupe de Ville. 

[chrisntam]

I looked on eBay yesterday and saw a coupe (running/driving/looks very nice) sell for around $16k.  That'd be money way ahead of this one.....and the other one had factory air.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-Cadillac-DeVille-Coupe-DeVille-/142301825142?hash=item2121d98876%3Ag%3AtsoAAOSwfVpYux1q&vxp=mtr&nma=true&si=dcHovJKVcXxt%252B7Rp07GcKL73i60%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

[Dan LeBlanc]

The wheels are wire hub caps not real wires.   Plus side is it's a Coupe de Ville.

Aw crap...I should've noticed that.

[J. Gomez]

The rust patina is worth at least $5K..!   

I stop going to Pete’s Swap meet the prices for rust has skyrocket since way back.   

[Bill Young]

I will reiterate what I have said many times before. Buy the absolute best car you can possibly afford. Restoration costs a fortune and is not cheap even if you have the skills and tools and location to do most of it yourself. Almost no one can do re Chrome Plating by their self. I called Space Coast Plating regarding getting the back bumper Chromed on my 1972 Cadillac Eldorado and the all up cost was $2,800.00. Not going to happen. The days of a complete non restored car being a bargain are over. If the above mentioned Coupe DeVille were FREE. I believe you would have at least 2X the value involved if you could do much of it yourself. One Mans Opinion.

[chrisntam]

Would someone look at this as a "challenge", meaning get this back on the road regardless of the cost?  It would be good for a high school shop class project.

Iffin I was wealthy and retired, and still had the ability, it might be a fun project.  But maybe a convertible would have more of an impact when done, or at least an a/c car.

[59-in-pieces]

The question of restore, don't restore - OLD SAW.

However, it seems to me that it is the desirability of the car going in that determines the value coming out.
A fully restored old undesirable car, is still an old car after it's restored - at the end of the day - unless it started out desirable.

I'm not a fan of this year anyway, if I could have a 56 instead - no offense - I would put more effort into it.

I'm also not of a mind of just buy it - drive it.
All that shows is how much money you could afford to spend.
On the other hand, I do subscribe to buy it right - restore it - step back with pride on your accomplishments - then drive it.
Maybe you end up at the same place of driving it, but the path to get their can be much more personally fulfilling - NO MATTER WHO KNOWS HOW YOU GOT THERE - cash or sweat.

IMHO.

Have fun,
Steve B.

[James Landi]

The 16k ask for the Ebay car MAY be a terrific joy to own-- Always suspect though when someone "else is selling it", and whoever wishes to get this amount of  hard cold cash can't get the generator working-- come on-- you can't be serious.   In fact, we all know that any thinking person would want to doubt and be very skeptical (am I sounding cynical)with those two typical qualifiers included in an Ebay description. All said, get the darn this up and running right-- make sure the a/c is blowing ice cold, and show me pictures of the car top to bottom, and guarantee that I'm not purchasing an oil burning, blow-by smoking junker, with a rough rough shifting dripping transmission, and that I can fly down the highway quietly, comfortably, and securely at 70 MPH--  then I'll fly out to inspect your car, and yes, I'll have a cashier's check in my pocket.

[arch62]

Yes that is what I did when looking for my Caddy. Looked and found one that was running, A/C cold, minor drip (turned out the trans insp. cover was missing), interior done nice, exterior repaint fair enough to enjoy driving without worry's, and of course an honest seller who appreciated me not offering anything till I flew 900 mi. to see and pay for it.

Very hard to find...but possible.

[59-in-pieces]

Oh wait.
Think of all that natural PATINA.
You know people pay big bucks to paint on patina, and here it comes for free.
Oh wait again, 9.5K aint quite free - and too far from it.
Does the term PASS mean anything to anybody - or am I joining the band.
Have fun,
Steve B.

[cadillac ken]

J Gomez said: I stop going to Pete’s Swap meet the prices for rust has skyrocket since way back.   

Perfect.  I'm gonna use that...

Like it has been said, buy the car you want but buy the best condition you can afford.  It has been pointed out many times, the car itself is the cheapest expense you will incur if you embark on a "restoration", "refurbish" or whatever you want to call it.  For me it's not about coming out "ahead" in the end but rather making the best use of my time and resources. If a few extra grand going in saves me a ton of time and money down the road, well then that's the car I want.

This car needs way too much of both time and money IMO.  Better buys are out there with a bigger head start on your long road to a nice car. 

Funny how years ago the non-car guys used to be the ones with the best deals.  Now the clubs like ours and others show us that the guys that actually know a thing or two about the hobby of building cars seem to have the best prices (and the most realistic valuation) of the cars we love.

[James Landi]

Cadillac Ken,

One important impact on the selling price, "marketing," and skepticism is advent of the internet, where, over time, enthusiasts of all types have shared their conquests and horror stories.  I suspect we're all getting "smarter" and maybe a bit cynical. James

[cadillac ken]

James:  This is true, but... It just seems now that too many treat this hobby as a profit making deal.  Yes, I'm getting older and I am trying hard every day not to be that old guy telling others about how it used to be.  But when buying and selling these old cars by non professsionals (not including the bonafide legitimate dealers) becomes all about the buck, that's when the lying, deception, and other undesirable traits are revealed.  Honesty and truth telling seem to be out of style and totally acceptable if it results in the situation working out the way the seller wants it to.

I went to look at a '63 De Ville convertible. Young guy on the phone says it has no rust. As it was local, I went to check it out.  As I turn the corner onto the street his house is on, I see a 1963 De Ville convertible in a driveway with a clearly rusty lower rear quarter.  Now keep in mind this was what I saw AS I TURNED ONTO HIS STREET as his house was about the 4th house down.

When I asked him why he told me it had NO RUST he says, "well it's not bad for how old the car is".  SMH.  I guess he figures telling you anything to get you there is fair game. 

[James Landi]

Ken,

I certainly "get it."  Tell the truth, mark it down to a price that seems reasonable as a starting point for someone to endure the price and the after purchase associated pain of getting the thing road worthy.  James

[chrisntam]

What does "SMH" mean?

I hope it's something good!

[Dan LeBlanc]

What does "SMH" mean?

I hope it's something good!

It means shaking my head.

[5390john]

I'm currently 5 1/2 years into a full restoration of a '55 6237DX. My car is a one owner numbers matching, known history from new, that I got at no cost from a close friend who purchased it from his dad who bought it new. The car was complete when pulled from the barn. If not for multiple rodent nests causing damage, it might have been able to be put on the road without a restoration, but it would not have been all that nice of a driver.
I jumped into a full body off restoration that should be completed this summer. There's no way that I come out ahead financially, but I knew that going in. I was looking for a hobby/project, not an investment. Gotta use all those Snap-On tools for something ya know?
Bottom line, in my opinion....if you want to drive a nice Caddy at minimal cost, buy the nicest car you can afford, and keep it in great condition. If you want a project and can do most or all the work yourself, (like me) then get as complete a rust free car as you can to start with, and sign up for a long project. IF you want the nicest Caddy that can be had, the way you want it, AND you have really deep pockets, buy one that you like, and take it and your checkbook to the most qualified restoration shop you can find, wait 2 or 3 years till it's complete and enjoy yourself!
I attached a few photos of my project.....
John Adams

[59-in-pieces]

John,
Gr8 work on the 55.
But I'm equally impressed with your garage, and the room to work on the car.
Have fun,
Steve B.