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1959 Cadillac - Window Motor (Rebuild or buy new?)

Started by Dan Eckstein, May 03, 2017, 09:27:36 PM

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Dan Eckstein

Hi All,

I need some guidance.  The power windows on my car go up and down slowly, and seem to pull hard on the battery.  What is the better approach?  Rebuild or buy new?  If rebuild is there a diagram/photos to show how to do it?  If buy new, any suggestions?  I bought a new one from RockAuto last year and it was DOA so I had to send it back.

Thanks in advance for all your help!
Thank you for your time,
Dan Eckstein
CLC #24850

russ austin

Clean the tracks up first. They get gummed up.
R.Austin

Dan Eckstein

Good suggestion. I have done that before I installed them.  Any other ideas?
Thank you for your time,
Dan Eckstein
CLC #24850

russ austin

If the motor works fine outside the door, then wire in two 4 post relays on each door. It will allow you to draw power directly from the battery.
R.Austin

59-in-pieces

Dan,
The tracks (and or gears in the motors) may need a slight bit of - cleaning - oiling/greasing to increase sliding.
Don't go crazy - more is not better - just overcome the friction.

As for the motors - yes they can get tired over time and weaken - less powerful push or pull.
What I have found is that if you buy new replacements - obviously after market - they are far more powerful than what is currently in the car, or maybe what was OEM.
So that being the case, make sure the stops for the windows - both up and down - are well adjusted and tight.
Why, because the more power the motor has it will blow the stops up = loosen them and cause damage.
If you or your guests are heavy fingered with the switches - or reflexes a bit slow to stop pushing - pad the stops, your choice of material.

Have fun,
Steve B.
S. Butcher

Dan Eckstein

Any recommendation on where to buy motors?

Also when you say rebuild does that mean opening up the case?  I only cleaned up the gear that was exposed.
Thank you for your time,
Dan Eckstein
CLC #24850

59-in-pieces

Dan,
Yes, I opened up the cases - cleaned all rotating and electrical contact surfaces.
I don't have a recommendation for new motors.
However, you may be able to locate some from reading Hemmings Motor News, or the Want to Buy section of this Forum, or use the back up option - Google.
Have fun,
Steve B.
S. Butcher

Ralph Messina CLC 4937

Dan,

On several occasions I bought the same motors that you did and found them defective. They were very slow and weak . In each case I cobbled a motor together from spare parts. I would like to know Steve B’s source for future reference.

You didn’t say what’s wrong with your current motor, but I’ll assume you have proper power feed to it and the motor turns in both directions.

If the motor is not rusty and has the black rubber coating intact, there’s a good chance that the field and armature have not been compromised by shorts. With the motor in a vise, big gear side up, remove the nuts on the retaining rods that hold the gear head to the motor body. You may have to score the rubber coating where the head attaches to the body for easy separation. Gently remove the head being careful not to let the brushes and retaining springs fly out. Release the brushes and springs using a tweezer leaving them hang outside the motor body. You can then pull the armature straight up and out. There is a bronze bearing on the bottom end of the motor the may or may not come out with at the armature. Just be certain that you account for its whereabouts. Inspect the brushes for cracks or other damage. Clean the worm gear and inspect the commutator for damage. Clean the commutator with 600 grit paper and remove any dirt or crud between the copper elements. Spray the area with tuner cleaner and dry. If the bottom bearing came out, wipe the area clean and apply fresh grease. Gently blow out the body cavity with air being certain the bottom bearing remained in place if it did not come out with the armature. Put the armature into the body being certain the bottom of the shaft is correctly seated in the bearing. Using tweezers reinstall the brushes and springs back on the commutator surface.  Bolt the gear head to the body and grease the worm gear. Test the motor with out the  large gear in the head. Motor speed is such that the gear will fly off. If it works, grease the teeth of the big gear. Apply chalk sealant around the outer surface of motor and gear head interface  Attach every thing to the window regulator.

I’ve used this procedure for at least a dozen motors with no failures yet. However, your guarantee expires with the end of this sentence.

HTH,
Ralph


1966 Fleetwood Brougham-with a new caretaker http://bit.ly/1GCn8I4
1966 Eldorado-with a new caretaker  http://bit.ly/1OrxLoY
2018 GMC Yukon

59-in-pieces

Dan,
Maybe I should have said this earlier - and I hope you didn't learn this the hard way - you must must put a bolt - that is what I use -in the hole between the gear and spring - or gone your fingers may be.

Ralph,
I will see If I can find where I bought them and PM U.

Have fun,
Steve B.
S. Butcher

Dan Eckstein

Hi All,

Thanks for the reminder about the tension on the spring.  I would be interested as well on the source for new motors.

All of my motors turn in both directions but they really pull on the battery and move slowly. About how many amps should the window motors pull?

Thanks again for all the help!

Thank you for your time,
Dan Eckstein
CLC #24850

60eldo

  2 dr or 4 door,,,I have 2 NOS ones I could sell
Jon. Klu

J. Gomez

Quote from: Dan Eckstein on May 08, 2017, 09:13:36 PM
Hi All,

Thanks for the reminder about the tension on the spring.  I would be interested as well on the source for new motors.

All of my motors turn in both directions but they really pull on the battery and move slowly. About how many amps should the window motors pull?

Thanks again for all the help!

Dan,

The motors can draw up to 15A under normal lifting operation and in good working conditions on both the motors and the window regulator/channels.

The normal RPM for these is slow there are no “high performance” speed racers.   ;)

You can see the specs for these at the MCLC document site -> https://www.modifiedcadillac.org/documents/Multiple_Years/1954-65%20Power%20Window%20Mtrs/

As others folks stated above the mechanical portion would need to be in good working condition no binding or obstructions that would cause the motor to strain.

You should be able to lift the glass pane by hand with light effort same as going down. The window channels should hold the glass slightly by its weight at all points of the travel and it should release by slight tap. You need to check your Service Manual for the proper adjustments for the channel.

Good luck..!
J. Gomez
CLC #23082