Rear control arm bushings '66

[Chuck Swanson]

Two of the bushing after replacement are not that tight.  I can tap them out with a rubber mallet for example vs using a press.  Do they have to be real tight that they do not move?  I have another set of arms I could use, but not sure if an easy way to tighten (i.e.: large pliers to grab and squeeze lip tighter, or tap with a punch in a few spots as my friend said).  Thanks, Chuck

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

The bushing sleeves are supposed to be tight within the arms, and it is the rubber that should be doing any moving.

To hold them tight, I would not be averse to placing a couple of welds to retain the outers into place, but not such a big weld that it is too difficult to remove when the need arises to replace them later on

Bruce.

Bruce, thanks!  I was thinking of getting the welder out for a quick tack on each....just was concerned about burning the rubber, so I will do quickly   Thanks, Chuck

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Chuck,

With a Mig, you won't get it that hot, but if it does get hot, have a bucket of water to plunge it into.

My Son has a bush come completely out from his '69 442, and I hit it with the Mig, and never gave any more strife.

Bruce.

[Chuck Swanson]

All set on the bottoms.  Gave them each a few tack welds, then slight grinding so it looked neat.   Taped up and painted, installed today.  Removed the top ones now and will get the bushings pressed in, then install new springs and shocks.  Can't believe for the top bolt you need to drill a 1 1/4" hole behind seat to removed bolt   Followed shop manual instructions and worked out well.  Thanks!  Chuck

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Can't believe for the top bolt you need to drill a 1 1/4" hole behind seat to removed bolt   Followed shop manual instructions and worked out well.  Thanks!  Chuck

If all else fails, read the manual, and it worked.   Great news.

By not drilling the holes at the time of build, the Factory probably saved thousands.

Or they had shares in the 1 1/4" drill makers.

Bruce.

[Chuck Swanson]

Here is pic of lower arm installed, upper removed.  So much easier with a lift, and a tower jack (upper left in pic).  I put the tower jack under differential front, and can adjust ever so slightly to get the bolts in very easily. 

[Scot Minesinger]

I have done this job several times, and replacing the two bushings in each arm one at a time (never more than one arm off the car), without a lift, it was no issue.  I powder coat the arms and then press the bushings in (protecting the metal so it is not coated where it meets the bushing) and then clear coat bushing and all.  The job is done and you are good.

To save your hole saw pilot bit (usually 1/4") which is hard and brittle and when drilling a non flat surface usually breaks:  Replace the pilot bit with standard 1/4" smooth mild steel stock (like a 4" piece or so).  Drill the 1/4" hole with a standard bit and then use the hole saw with the mild steel 1/4" stock.  The stock will not break and you can easily drill both holes without issue.

Do watch the fuel lines, they are way too close to this drilling operation.  Obviously you all did because that did not come up.

[Chuck Swanson]

Good point on the bit.  I did the same and used a different bit for the pilot hole.  I also clear coated the bushings.

To add, for my job 80% of the bolts were frozen and I put my heavy duty 5 foot jack bar on end of breaker bar, and rotated.  Bolts snapped right off.  Was much easier on the lift.  Was also easier to touch up the spots I missed when the bottom of car was blasted, epoxy primed and painted. 

No lines on car yet as I'm restoring this '66 and tank, lines, etc... removed. 

For others, make sure you support the front of differential if no drive shaft, like mine, as it will rotate down if not.  Chuck

[chrisntam]

How did you plug the hole after the work was completed?

Also, does it matter if the weight of the car is on the tires or does the car need to be "unloaded" and up on jack stands?

I'll be doing mine sometime in the future, would rather have it on the tires as I have wheel cribs I'll be using which will give me ample room to work.

[Scot Minesinger]

Chris,

Plug the hole with a small piece of sheet metal, caulk and sheet metal screws.  I usually do this right after install and inspection.  Then test drive without back seat and if all good install the back seat.  I hear that the bolts and nuts are frozen on the 66 and 65's, but never had the problem on a 1970 rear control arm removal.

If you remove one control arm at a time and keep shocks in place, then you do not need to support the rear wheel.  If you remove shocks then you do to keep brake line from tearing away from frame on passenger side.  Watch the fuel lines on passenger side.  Often it is helpful when installing the bolt thru arm and frame (or diff axel housing) may need a floor jack to maneuver.

This is not a bad job, pressing the old bushings out of the control arms can be tricky because the arms are so flimsy.  Make a piece to keep arms from crushing during press out.  The first arm will be the toughest, last one the easiest.  Refinishing the arms can be time consuming depending on how far you want to take it.

[Chuck Swanson]

How did you plug the hole after the work was completed?

Also, does it matter if the weight of the car is on the tires or does the car need to be "unloaded" and up on jack stands?

I'll be doing mine sometime in the future, would rather have it on the tires as I have wheel cribs I'll be using which will give me ample room to work.

My tires were on, but on jack stands.  I also had a tower jack on the front of differential.  I followed the steps in the shop manual.  In the shop manual it said to plug with a 1 1/4 rubber plug, so I simply used two of those.  Hopefully won't need to get to again, but you never know   Chuck

[30326]

I bought a bushing removal tool set from RideTech. Was working great when replacing the bushings in front and rear on my 1964 Series 62. Had to make one part myself when refitting the bushings on the upper control arms in front. I do think that 100 USD is a bit pricey, but in the end it was worth it and I could do this car and any other bushing replacement and don't need to buy a press or go to the shop. There is a good tutorial video that helps whith using this set.

Also think that for hundred bucks a case should be included.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/art-85000009

https://youtu.be/50VUhlxlO-M

[Scot Minesinger]

Front upper control arms you need to make a tool according to shop manual in a 1970, probably same for 1966, and this company just makes that tool for you.  I made mine from a hunk of 3/8" x 12" x 12" plate from HD sold to me for low cost.  Then using a jig saw or band saw it is easily made.  It is good to learn how to make one, because had to replace control arm bushings on a 1970 Buick (which are different than Cadillac -not much), and knew exactly how to make the same tool-different dimension.  It is easy to make these tools, and usually do, rather than buying the special tools.  In one case the KM sold to me to press out 1972 Eldorado front lower control arm bushings was too flimsy to do the job and had to make my own anyway.