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Recommendations for Motor Oil and Gas for pre-1970s Cadillac

Started by jdemerson, July 05, 2017, 08:17:45 AM

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jdemerson

I'm looking for some advice from experienced Cadillac owners, for years 1949 through 1970 or so.

Motor oil: I am currently using Brad Penn partial synthetic oil 20W-50, chosen mainly for its high zinc content. I'll do an annual oil change in August. My current thinking favors: 10W-40 with high zinc (maybe 1200 ppm) and partly synthetic. I change the oil and filter every year, and only put 1000 or so miles on the 1952 model in a year. Not driven at below 40 degrees F. temperatures. What advice do you have for specs and brand?

Gasoline and possible additives. I use 91 octane ethanol-free gas exclusively, and it has helped address a vapor lock problem that I had three years ago. I add Gunk Motor Medic lead substitute -- about 8 ounces to 10 gallons of gas. On occasion I have substituted Lucas upper cylinder lubricant for the lead substitute (just because I happened to have a bottle). I know that quite a few folks here like Marvel Mystery oil, but in general I'm not a big fan of additives. But I've managed to convince myself that the lead substitute is not a bad idea in a pre-70s engine...  Advice? 

I've done searches and have read various posts that address some of these issues. Opinions do vary, so I'm looking for critiques or confirmation for what I've actually been doing. By the way, I drove in a very long parade yesterday and the car seems to be running perfectly. It gets fairly hot after more than an hour at idle in the parade, but quickly cools down with a few miles of driving at 50 mph.

Thanks!

John Emerson
1952 Cadillac Sedan 6219X
John Emerson
Middlebury, Vermont
CLC member #26790
1952 Series 6219X
http://bit.ly/21AGnvn

Cesar091665

I think you're on the right track. As to what to use is going to depend on how many miles the cars have and weather eng. and heads have been rebuild and hard seats put on.
That said, here is what ife found over the years.
As far as oil goes, I use AMSOIL because of the high zinc content, its ideal for older engines and has great lubrication and temp. transfer.
I think what your doing for fuel is right on, 91 octane in fine for these old eng. just keep adding lead. Fuel additives vary and it depends on what you want to a accomplish. If you want to clean fuel system STP carb cleaners and Lucas work great, if you want to target upper heads and pistons, SeaFoam seems to work pretty good.
Hope that helps.
Thank you
RCC

Bobby B

John,
Hi. Brad Penn is great oil for your car. Joe Gibbs, Valvoline VR1,etc. is also excellent. Royal Purple is Overpriced. But why 20W-50? That's awfully heavy oil to drag your crank in. Are you in an extremely hot climate? I use 10W-40 or 10W-30 with no issues. I never use any additives other than a little MMO in the tank with a fill-up. In my opinion, there's no need to add a lead substitute unless you're driving your car like you stole it. A lot of snake oil products out there. I'd rather know what's going on than try to mask it.
                                                                     Bobby
1947 Cadillac Series 62 Convertible Coupe
1968 Mustang Convertible
1973 Mustang Convertible
1969 Jaguar E-Type Roadster
1971 Datsun 240Z
1979 H-D FLH

30326

I use this mineral oil. Its has high ZDDP content:

ZDDP = (Zink Diakyl Dithio Phosphate)

30326

For lead substitut I use Red Line, but I also fill the tank with 98 Octane gasoline (unfortunately there are some ethanol in that).
Will install hardened valve seat when its time to overhaul the engine.


Bill Balkie 24172

Hello ,

    I have been using this for 109 years in my 1957 . never had a problem .

      http://www.classiccarmotoroil.com/


    Thanks,
       Bill
Bill Balkie
1970 Coupe DeVille
2009 CTS

Lexi

Tried a few oils and for me looks like Valvoline VR1 10W30 is the one I am going to stay with. I usually avoid additives, and although in the past I used ZDDPlus in my regular Quaker State oil, I am now of the opinion that you are better off buying oil with the proper amount of zinc already in it then having to add it later. I imagine that the product is more predictable, then having to wonder whether I added the right amount of zinc and will it eventually come out of suspension in the oil, etc. So from now on its the VR1 "Dinosaur Juice" for my car! I also use a lead substitute in my fuel while trying to avoid ethanol. I thought that when I first used the lead substitute as well as the VR1, that my engine sounded more smooth. Not that it was noisy before, but it seemed more quiet. I also don't drive the car when the temperature falls below 40 degrees F. So, for winter storage I use a light weight oil with a bottle of ZDDPlus for zinc, just in case I got to make a cold emergency start. Clay/Lexi

Bobby B

According to the experts, ZDDP must be heated and mixed with some oil before adding or it will stay in suspension.                                                     Also note: Too much ZDDP is also no good, so save your hard earned dollars.....
                                                                                              Bobby
1947 Cadillac Series 62 Convertible Coupe
1968 Mustang Convertible
1973 Mustang Convertible
1969 Jaguar E-Type Roadster
1971 Datsun 240Z
1979 H-D FLH

V63

I use full SYNTHETICS!

Have you ever wondered why (conventional) motor oil turns black? It's because it burns (into abrasive carbon) on the hot engine parts. The abrasive carbon suspended in your oil wears your engine.

Synthetics do NOT burn on the hot engine metals because of its exceedingly high scortch temperature exceeds temperature extreems of your engine.

Tha absence of abrasives (carbon) allow for oil changes of 10k comfortably...I have followed this policy thru several newer vehicles...and it's amazing the oil remains 'translucent'. I have 160k on a last gen DTS.

I
Have spoke at length to the engineers at royal purple, and that's what I prefer to use. They told me that oil protection is much like an insurance policy...you hope to never need it, but it's there when you do to protect your engine from catastrophic damage. Like during an over heat for example.

This investigation was done before choosing that product for a Packard V12. A $30k rebuild if ever needed.

nolacaddy1960

I too swear by Royal Purple.  I also prefer MFG oil filters.  I have a Toyota and their filters are better than most you can get in the stores.  (I have seen videos that cut up most brands filters to show inner media)

   I was undecided on this, but leaning to Synth 10w30.  The zinc additives are new to me, so of course I will research more first.
Trying to see what needs to be done to better handle ethanol and low octane.

  Was considering header spacers to lower compression.  I have done that in cars I added forced induction to.
  Compression is high in these cars.