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1976 Fleetwood Inner Door Panel Removal

Started by Znuh, September 25, 2017, 07:50:44 PM

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Znuh

Hello Forum,

I'd like to properly grease and lubricate the window regulators (and replace a solenoid for the locks) in the doors of my '76 Fleetwood. I've read through the shop manual, and I can't see anywhere in the book how to properly remove the door panels so I can service the regulators.

I want to do my best not to break or hurt anything - is there a proper walk-through or procedure for taking the panels off?

Many thanks,

-James

Julien Abrahams

I dont have experiemce with a 76 but i think it is not a whole lot differemt than older cadillacs and other cars in general.
I would assume the panel is held on with screws and/or clips. I would first remove the door handle and look for any screws that hold the panel on. Also remove the door lock knob and (if it has manual mirrors) remkve the allen screw with which ir is held on. Then simply get your fingers between the panel and the door and carefully pull to see if it comes off.
1954 Cadillac series 62
1967 Cadillac Sedan De Ville HT
1969 Austin Healey Sprite
1979 Opel Kadett

V63

#2
Generally and from memory.

The upper panel is removed first. Lock knob, then there is a horizontal chrome piece at the bottom, there is a chrome screw holding an end. Then it slides (forward?) to remove revealing added fasteners. Oops, yes...with upper pull handle there are 2 black) screws hidden under it. On versions with strap...you remove (pop) chrome end cap and folded strap end is snapped closed, unsnap to reveal end screws. Pull the upper panel out an inch at bottom then back in again...bump it upward to remove.

The lower panel: remove chrome cup around release handle ...pry out courtesy light lens, socket cup. There are fasteners revealed. Remove chrome switch control panel, disconnect elect connections and Mirror cable (Allen wrench), revealing fasteners within cavity. Within carpeted bottom there are chrome screws at each end. Plastic trim fasteners retain the panel further about 4" apart at edges. A panel removal tool is best to 'pop' out these retainers without damage to cardboard.

Note: if you have illuminated entry there is a fiber optic connection within the courtesy light housing.

I think that's everything?

TJ Hopland

Besides the hidden screws under the chrome strip holding the upper on there is usually screws at the ends of the pull strap or handle too.  On the handle you can usually see the screws if you flip the handle up.   On the strap I believe you pop the wood grain plates off the ends to expose the screws.  At this age I would be extra careful with those plates I would expect them to be pretty brittle.

Nothing to add on the lowers.   As door panels go I remember these not being that bad to remove.  Not as easy as say a 60's pickup truck but no where near as bad as something from the 90's or newer.     
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

35-709

#4
".... then there is a horizontal chrome piece at the bottom, there is a chrome screw holding an end.  Then it slides (forward?) to remove revealing added fasteners."

As I remember it does slide forward after removing the one screw at the front of that piece.  SLIDE IT, DO NOT TRY TO PULL IT STRAIGHT OFF (as so many have done)!  Forcing it off by pulling straight out will bend the several fasteners on the back that slide into slots to hold that piece, then you will say, "Oh, I see how it goes now" --- too late.  Then you will try to bend those fasteners back down so they will properly hold the chrome trim piece when you put it back on later, only to find that they tend to break off or become very weak when you do so.  Have seen several cars of this era with extra UGLY screws through the chrome (stainless?) piece to hold it in place.

1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

76Caddy

The only screws to remove are under the chrome strip in the middle where the 2 halves meet.  The panels are held on with plastic tabs that are cone shaped with ridges.  You will need to get a V shaped pry tool to remove the plastics tabs WITH the door panel, if you try pulling the panel or use some kind pry bar, the plastic tabs will stay in the door itself and tear the panel backing and the panel will not fit tight when putting it back on.  As for changing door lock actuators on the front doors, make sure you have LONG SKINNY arms before reaching in to access actuators (I actually got my arm stuck in the front passenger door of mine).
Tim Plummer
CLC #18948
1967 Eldorado
1976 Brougham
1976 Seville
2019 XT5
1969 Chevy c/10 pickup
1971 Chevy Impala

Znuh

I'm so very glad I asked!!

Thank you all very, very much for the detailed replies. Once the 'new' solenoid arrives, I'll carefully be following all of the above instruction to the letter; the interior on this car is perfect, and the last, last, *last* thing I want to do is hurt or break anything.

With kind regards,

-James

Znuh

Quote from: 76Caddy on September 26, 2017, 08:44:03 PM
The only screws to remove are under the chrome strip in the middle where the 2 halves meet. 

Quick question - as others have mentioned above, are there any screws for the door pull handle that I should look for? I've enclosed a picture of the handle.

With best regards,

-James

76Caddy

No, there are no screws under the pull handle.  You will have to remove the chrome piece around the door handle (2 screws) but you do not have to remove the handle.  When you remove the chrome piece from the middle (one screw at the end and then Slide off) there should be 4 screws to remove then pull slightly at bottom of top half and push upwards to dislodge from door (make sure the plastic lock knob has been removed).  The bottom half has the plastic tabs around the edge of it.  Also there are no screws behind the red and white lenses.  When you get the bottom half away from the door, you can reach around and slide the wiring connector off the lights.  What I do on the drivers door is unplug the wires for the door lock and windows and then secure the upper panel out of the way without unhooking the mirror control. 

Hope this helps
Tim Plummer
CLC #18948
1967 Eldorado
1976 Brougham
1976 Seville
2019 XT5
1969 Chevy c/10 pickup
1971 Chevy Impala

TJ Hopland

I'm surprised there isn't screws related to the pull handle but if there isn't there isn't.    Wonder what they did to get some strength to the handles?   Maybe hook like things on the back that engage when the rest of the panel is slid on?   
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

35-709

As I remember the pull handles are screwed on to the door panel from the back.
1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

76Caddy

The upper door panels have a metal backing, not cardboard like the bottom half. 
Tim Plummer
CLC #18948
1967 Eldorado
1976 Brougham
1976 Seville
2019 XT5
1969 Chevy c/10 pickup
1971 Chevy Impala