1959 Eldorado Biarritz 390 3x2 oiling questions

[ocs59cad]

In a previous post I received great advice re: fuel pump and fuel filter. I am now tackling the oil system in this engine. The engine has not run in a number of years. I pulled the valve covers to replace the gaskets and observed sludge on the sides of the covers. I suspect there may be a considerable amount of sludge in the oil pan, therefore I am contemplating pulling the pan, cleaning it and rebuilding the original oil pump. I have reviewed a number of posts discussing the challenge in removal/installation of the pan with the engine in the car, but I am reluctant to even spin the the oil pump with a priming tool without ensuring that the pan is clean.

1. Are there any tips beyond those already previously posted that may make the pan removal/install less painful?

2. Are there any recommendations regarding rebuilding the oil pump, i.e., a particular kit to purchase, assembly tips, etc.

Thanks in advance for your expert advice!

[fishnjim]

The older oils had more paraffins were more likely to sludge out, and the problem is if you don't get it all sludge out, it'll be removed by the modern oils and go places you don't want it, and if you do, it might show some weaknesses, leaks, that weren't there.  {They didn't even have full oil filtration til '61.}
Tough call $$$, but I'd look at the mileage, and anything over 50K is a candidate for a overhaul anyway.   If you intend to drive often.   They just were not as robust as todays.   Sometimes there's a reason these sit for long periods.   There's the cooling system to think about also.  So many get them running then complain of heating issues...  Treat them as systems and get them up to par one at a time.   + electrical, ventilation/heating, etc.   

[76eldo]

If you disconnect the idler arm at the frame you can maneuver the suspension down and out of the way. It's a little difficult to deal with the two nuts on the front of the pan. The two front and two rear fasteners are studs and nuts, not bolts.

You need a variety of sockets and extensions and a swivel adapter.
My engine was seized so maybe I got lucky with the crank orientation but I got the pan off.

Brian

[ocs59cad]

I discussed the sludge situation with a mechanic friend of mine. He suggested filling the engine up with mineral spirits (5 gal.) by pouring it through the heads with the valve covers off and allowing it to sit for a couple days to dissolve the paraffin sludge. Drain the oil pan and refill the engine with a very light oil and allow it to sit for a few days before draining. Perhaps this procedure could remove the sludge in the engine as well as get rid of most of the sludge buildup in the oil pan. Thoughts?   

[35-709]

No such thing as a free lunch here --- a couple of days with the mineral spirits --- a few more days with the light oil --- and you still don't know if it will really work or has worked very well after waiting around for 5 to 7 days.  Drop the pan and clean it and have it back up in one day.  Add another day (being generous) if you want to rebuild the oil pump and paint the pan.  I would feel much better with an eyeball on the whole thing.  You got an old car that needs some work?  Expect to get dirty!   

[fishnjim]

Flushing will only clean the loose sludge in the pan and part of some of the ports the fluid runs down.   Flushing is OK to get to a place to put fresh oil in and turn over, so you can test the compression, etc. but is it a good thing long term?   Effect on seals, etc need to be considered.   I can't judge because can't see over the internet and the mileage and maintenance history is unknown.   
Some would recommend a spitz of WD or oil in the cylinders to loosen up the rings while soaking.
You need to reconsider, if the oil is that bad, what condition the other systems are in?   Taking the pan off for inspecting and cleaning maybe your least problem.   eg;The oil pump was pumping that stuff at some point.
* - I use kerosine it's a bit cheaper to clean engine sludge.  I would only fill the pan in cases of low mileage to get old thick oil out.   Removing the valve covers, cleaning, and inspecting the upper end is standard practice before restarts.(no bent or loose components) + fuel system/carb & electrical/ignition inspection - minimum.

[ocs59cad]

Thanks for the input. The engine has 105k miles so I am sure it could use an overhaul. However, I am concerned that if the engine is overhauled does the car lose its credibility for Preservation Class eligibility? My intent is to get everything mechanically operable and to detail the car without refinishing.