News:

Due to a technical issue, some recently uploaded pictures have been lost. We are investigating why this happened but the issue has been resolved so that future uploads should be safe.  You can also Modify your post (MORE...) and re-upload the pictures in your post.

Main Menu

1956 Cadillac Power Steering Pump Pulley Attaching Nut

Started by limikep, December 09, 2017, 02:21:43 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

limikep

Hello

I need to rebuild my power steering pump and have the unit out of the car.  I cannot break free the attaching nut on the front of the pulley.  I tried vice grips to hold the two washers behind the locking washer and nut.  Using a 1/2" racket, still could not loosen the nut therefore cannot remove the pulley.  Any ideas how to loosen the nut.  If I apply heat, this might melt the rubber seal but I have a new one as part of the rebuild.  Is heat the answer or am I missing another technique.  Thank you all in advance.

Mike

Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373

I had the same problem
Hit it with an impact wrench. It will break it loose before the pulley can spin. If you dont have one go to a local shop and slip the kid a couple bucks.
Jeff
Jeff Rosansky
CLC #28373
1970 Coupe DeVille (Big Red)
1955 Series 62 (Baby Blue)
Dad's new 1979 Coupe DeVille

J. Gomez

Mike,

I’ve used my ½” air impact wrench with no problem in breaking it loose..!   ;)

Good luck..!
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

limikep

Thank you, you guys are great.  Now I thought I was ready to rebuild the pump but how do you remove the "key" from the shaft.  The pulley came right off and it appears the key is the guide for the pulley.

J. Gomez

Quote from: limikep on December 10, 2017, 11:58:30 AM
Thank you, you guys are great.  Now I thought I was ready to rebuild the pump but how do you remove the "key" from the shaft.  The pulley came right off and it appears the key is the guide for the pulley.

You need to pry it off from the grove, most of the time you can use a small blade screwdriver to get it off but sometime you need a locking pliers to rock it out.

Good luck...!
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

limikep

Thanks again all.  I'm almost done.  I have two questions.  1) how do I tighten the pulley attaching nut to 35 - 45 lbs. when the pulley just keeps spinning while I try to tighten the nut?  2) Because I could not get the attaching nut off while the pump was on the car, I had to remove the front pump bracket and remove that with the pump.  Now when I replaced the bracket and the pump, I am getting antifreeze leaking from the lower of the two bolts that hold the bracket to the block.  The bolts are about 4" each with a lock washer and spacer.  Again the leak is coming from the lower of the two.  Thank you in advance.  Mike

cadillacmike68

When you took the pump & bracket off, was it or did it start to leak coolant then? Or, did it only start to leak when you replaced them??
Regards,
"Cadillac" Mike

Caddy Wizard

Sounds like the gaskets under the water pump are leaking.  The PS pump bracket is secured in one spot to the water pump, so these gaskets may need to be replaced.   
Art Gardner


1955 S60 Fleetwood sedan (now under resto -- has been in paint shop since June 2022!)
1955 S62 Coupe (future show car? 2/3 done)
1958 Eldo Seville (2/3 done)

limikep

Really good point was made.  There was no leak before I took it off and no leak after I took it off.  It only started leaking after I put it all back together.  I am thinking I did not make the bolts tight enough.  I looked in the shop manual and it states 25 - 29 lbs.  I will torque them down and see what happens.  Now to figure out how to torque the attaching nut on the pulley to 35 - 45 lbs.  I'm thinking to use another nut to lock the first nut in place if I can not get to 35 lbs.  How does that sound?  Thank you all for your help.  Mike

J. Gomez

Quote from: limikep on December 18, 2017, 11:46:55 AM
Really good point was made.  There was no leak before I took it off and no leak after I took it off.  It only started leaking after I put it all back together.  I am thinking I did not make the bolts tight enough.  I looked in the shop manual and it states 25 - 29 lbs.  I will torque them down and see what happens.  Now to figure out how to torque the attaching nut on the pulley to 35 - 45 lbs.  I'm thinking to use another nut to lock the first nut in place if I can not get to 35 lbs.  How does that sound?  Thank you all for your help.  Mike

Mike,

Not a good idea..!

Over-torquing would not cure the leaking issue, best bet is to replace the gasket seals since the ones already in place may have been compromised.  :(

You can try adding one on the top and bottom (PS different sizes) left side and hope for the best, although a quick and duty way of doing things that could or no fix the leak.  ???

I know is a paint getting the new gaskets in place with a full radiator, but you do not want to short change yourself at a later time.   ;)


Good luck..!

J. Gomez
CLC #23082

limikep

Well I do need to change all the gaskets on the water pump.  Do I need to put any shellac/compound on the gaskets.  I would like to slide all four gaskets on when the water pump is in place.  I can do this by removing one bolt at a time, slide the gasket than replace the bolt.  Do you think I will have a water tight seal without using anything on the gaskets? Thank you again in advance.  Mike

Caddy Wizard

#11
Sliding gaskets in behind the water pump flanges will probably not seal.  There will be bits of the old gaskets in place.  The water pump needs to be removed, the old gaskets scraped cleanly off the engine block and off the water pump flanges, and new gaskets applied. I use Permatex gasket sealer on them.  Some mechanics don't use anything.  Some use stuff like CopperGasket.  Those are mostly details.  Key thing is to scrape the surfaces completely clean and install new gaskets. Then torque to specs (makeing sure that the bolt and hole threads are clean).  Do not overtighten.

As for tightening the big nut on the end of the PS pump shaft, that is not too tough.  Put the belt on and adjust the belt to be quite tight.  Then tighten the nut, using the engine resistance to turning to hold the PS pulley in place.  If you need more resistance, have a helper hold the engine from turning with a wrench or by grabbing the fan belt or the fan.  Then readjust the PS pulley to have the proper tension in the belt.
Art Gardner


1955 S60 Fleetwood sedan (now under resto -- has been in paint shop since June 2022!)
1955 S62 Coupe (future show car? 2/3 done)
1958 Eldo Seville (2/3 done)

limikep

Thanks for the quick response.  Great info regarding the p/s bolt.  My error that i did not mention the water pump is off the car and all surfaces are clean.  Will I get a water tight seal using no compound and slipping the gaskets in place.  Sorry for the missing key information.

Caddy Wizard

Quote from: limikep on February 14, 2018, 10:13:50 AM
Thanks for the quick response.  Great info regarding the p/s bolt.  My error that i did not mention the water pump is off the car and all surfaces are clean.  Will I get a water tight seal using no compound and slipping the gaskets in place.  Sorry for the missing key information.

You ask 10 mechanics this question and you'll get a variety of answers.  Some will say don't use any gasket compound.  Others will say use something like Permatex #2.  Some will say use RTV silicone (I don't like that option).  Some will say use the CopperCoat spray gasket sealant.  Some will say use a sealant, but only on the side facing the water pump flanges.

Me, if the surfaces on the engine block are really smooth and not nicked up or corroded, I say put the gasket sealant only on the faces of the water pump flanges.  Or, if you want to use dope on both sides, use something like the spray CopperCoat. 
Art Gardner


1955 S60 Fleetwood sedan (now under resto -- has been in paint shop since June 2022!)
1955 S62 Coupe (future show car? 2/3 done)
1958 Eldo Seville (2/3 done)

limikep

I got the water pump and power steering pump back on the car.  I used the copper gasket spray for the gaskets and very happy with the results.  The only problem I have now is I cannot get the wheels to turn while the car is on the ground.  I think I need to bleed the power steering system but cannot find the bleed screw on the housing cover.  When I raise the car, and with engine running, the wheels turn freely.  I do notice bubbles in the power steering reservoir when I turn the wheels.  Does this sound like air in the system.  If so, are there other ways to bleed the system without using the bleed screw?  Thank you all again.

J. Gomez

Mike,
If you have the Shop Manual handy Section 5 page 5-6 has the procedure to bleed the P/S system.

Now there is a note under this section to crack open the bleed screw on the housing side cover, well there is none.   :o Not sure if that note was part of the 1954 manual and someone forgot to drop it off on the 1956.  ???

The rest of the steps on the bleeding section are applicable.

Good luck.
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

limikep

Yes I have the shop manual and you are right.. they needed to update the manual.  I tried yesterday and today but it still appears to be hard turning the wheels while on the ground.  Would it be a bad idea to take the car out for a ride.  Maybe that might get all the air out?  Is there a chance I can burn/damage the gear box by driving the car?  Thank you all in advance.

Mike

J. Gomez

Quote from: limikep on February 25, 2018, 12:22:42 PM
Yes I have the shop manual and you are right.. they needed to update the manual.  I tried yesterday and today but it still appears to be hard turning the wheels while on the ground.  Would it be a bad idea to take the car out for a ride.  Maybe that might get all the air out?  Is there a chance I can burn/damage the gear box by driving the car?  Thank you all in advance.

Mike

Mike,

If you follow the steps on the Service Manual for bleeding the system and you still having issues you would need to do more testing.

Not sure what you have already tested or done to the steering system or what condition they are.

It could be multiple things that could be wrong the pump not providing enough pressure, blockage, the steering gear issues, etc.
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

limikep

I solved the problem with the no pressure issue with my power steering pump.  When I rebuilt the P/S pump, I used the incorrect o-ring that went between the pump cover and pressure plate.  The kit comes with two size o-rings for you to use depending on your pump.  I matched the new one to the original one that came off.  Power steering worked even without bleeding the system after changing the o-ring.  I attached three short YouTube links by the same person who had the same problem.  I hope you can watch them and learn from them as I did.  Just cut and paste the links.  As always, you all were a great help.

1)
     https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqR4194bhow
2)
     https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvuYKwyeoic
3)
     https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7mwYDANaiY


Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373

I had the same problem. I have pressure now.... but my box is plugged up so still no power steering for me.
Parking lots about kill me.
Jeff
Jeff Rosansky
CLC #28373
1970 Coupe DeVille (Big Red)
1955 Series 62 (Baby Blue)
Dad's new 1979 Coupe DeVille