Low beams work, but high beams do not?? 52 cad, 12 v

[papas52cad]

Hoping someone can help me diagnose this issue. Only had this car about a month but I did test and both low and high worked. Now all of a sudden the hi beam does not work in both sealed halogen lights. Seems odd that both would blow at same time, but it is possible..
I have tested the voltage at the lamp housing connector here is what I found
When low beam is on and I test between the vertical lower connector and the single top connector, I have 11.3 v, the side by voltage is nil (showed 0.06) using same connection points when I turn on the high beam switch, the reading is zero. FYI, The red light hi beam indicator on dash does glow red.
I have looked at wiring, all seems in order. And I checked connection at switch below floor board, and it looks ok.
Any guidance on what may be the problem will be appreciated. I also tested continuity on the 1 bulb I removed and it is fine between all 3 spade connectors.

[Dave Shepherd]

The dimmer switch looks ok, but does it work?  Check the circuits across the switch.

[J. Gomez]

Hoping someone can help me diagnose this issue. Only had this car about a month but I did test and both low and high worked. Now all of a sudden the hi beam does not work in both sealed halogen lights. Seems odd that both would blow at same time, but it is possible..
I have tested the voltage at the lamp housing connector here is what I found
When low beam is on and I test between the vertical lower connector and the single top connector, I have 11.3 v, the side by voltage is nil (showed 0.06) using same connection points when I turn on the high beam switch, the reading is zero. FYI, The red light hi beam indicator on dash does glow red.
I have looked at wiring, all seems in order. And I checked connection at switch below floor board, and it looks ok.
Any guidance on what may be the problem will be appreciated. I also tested continuity on the 1 bulb I removed and it is fine between all 3 spade connectors.

Peter,

The foot switch switches the +12V (in your case) from the headlight switch for the low and to the high, the indicator on the dash goes to the #2 connector on the foot switch this is the high beam side.

Have you check the wire (which I believe is the natural with black and red tracer) from the foot switch #2 over to the LH socket and from it extends over to the RH side headlights?

[papas52cad]

Thank you Dave and J. ( sorry don't know your first name) , I will test the voltage at the switch between the 3 connectors, seems that is the conclusion you both are suggesting...pweird that it worked and now it does not, but being it is 65 yrs old..could be..
Assume there are no fuses to check , correct?

[Dave Shepherd]

Pretty sure back then the headlight switch had a built in circuit breaker

[papas52cad]

Thank you Davs
Since it seems could be the switch, can you recommend where to buy a replacement?

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

 When you hit the switch does it seem solid-both the feel and the click? Actuate the switch a few times before you dig into it.  The contacts could just be bad on the switch. When I first got the 70 they didn't work but after pushing the button a dozen times or so they started working ok.
Jeff

[J. Gomez]

Thank you Dave and J. ( sorry don't know your first name) , I will test the voltage at the switch between the 3 connectors, seems that is the conclusion you both are suggesting...pweird that it worked and now it does not, but being it is 65 yrs old..could be..
Assume there are no fuses to check , correct?

Peter,

I do not have the 1952 wiring diagram but I have access to the 1951 in case you do not have the Service Manual here is the wiring diagram. -> https://www.modifiedcadillac.org/documents/Shop_Manuals_and_Illus_Catalogs/1951%20Shop%20Manual/tn/51%20Shop%20Manual%20-%2090.jpg.html

I can image the ’52 changed the wiring layout much since the same headlight arrangement was use well into the ‘6X. 

Yes, you are correct no fuses but there is a thermal fuse (similar to the one for auto reset circuit breaker) at the headlight switch that will open the path when there is excessive current and reset when is normal.

Since you mention you have the high beam indicator “on” at the dash when you switch from the low beam that indicates the issue could be from the foot switch wire up to the headlights sockets. That is if no one mess with the original wiring layout.

PS My name is Jose Gomez.

Good luck..!

[papas52cad]

Thank you men for added input, the switch does have a solid feel and clicks as it should. Since it worked before perhaps it is stuck...I will try everything suggested since changing it is a last resort given not so easy to work on
And based on what I can see the wiring is the same other than the ch age to 12 volt but not all working was changed since the restorer  told me he did not buy a whole new harness back then..
Peter

[papas52cad]

Gentleman, have any of you ordered from Auto obsolete parts . They have a NEW, now switch in box fits my 52, this is link

http://www.autopartsobsolete.com/1926-thru-1958-Buick-Cadillac-Chevrolet-Oldsmobile-Pontiac-Packard-Studebaker-Willys-new-headlight-dimmer-switch-3254.html

Price is right, at $22, but no warranty or guarantee on parts like this. It's not a lot of $$ and caddy daddy or McVeys wants more than double for remanufactured part.

I tried the dozen+ depression of dimmer, still no good, and unless it is something weird, the switch seems the most likely culprit.
Thoughts?
Thank you.

[J. Gomez]

Gentleman, have any of you ordered from Auto obsolete parts . They have a NEW, now switch in box fits my 52, this is link

http://www.autopartsobsolete.com/1926-thru-1958-Buick-Cadillac-Chevrolet-Oldsmobile-Pontiac-Packard-Studebaker-Willys-new-headlight-dimmer-switch-3254.html

Price is right, at $22, but no warranty or guarantee on parts like this. It's not a lot of $$ and caddy daddy or McVeys wants more than double for remanufactured part.

I tried the dozen+ depression of dimmer, still no good, and unless it is something weird, the switch seems the most likely culprit.
Thoughts?
Thank you.

Peter,

Just a quick check before you tackle the foot switch removal is to try to check if you get +12V on all positions/terminals. One will have the +12V from the headlight switch #3 while the others will be switched either the #1 low or #2 high.

Good luck..!

[papas52cad]

Thank Jose
I will try that, easy enough to do once I get car jacked high enough to get clips on terminals,
So #3 will always show 12v ( when low beam light is on) and #1 and 3 should show 12v when hi beam is selected..correct.

[J. Gomez]

Thank Jose
I will try that, easy enough to do once I get car jacked high enough to get clips on terminals,
So #3 will always show 12v ( when low beam light is on) and #1 and 3 should show 12v when hi beam is selected..correct.

Peter,

That would be correct..!

Now if you follow the wiring diagram of the ’51 (assuming the ’52 has the same layout) there should be two wires (possible) connected to terminal #2 high, one going to the headlights sockets and one going to the dash indicator, one at #1 for the low and one at #1 for power.

Good luck..!

[papas52cad]

Thank you Jose
I appreciate your guidance.
I'll let you know what I find.
Happy holidays to you and yours

[J. Gomez]

Thank you Jose
I appreciate your guidance.
I'll let you know what I find.
Happy holidays to you and yours

Peter,

Same to you, Happy Holidays..!

[papas52cad]

Hi Jose
Well I tested switch and good call Jose  on doing so as it seems the switch works, here is what I have
Tested the bottom connector..= grd I assume, to middle connector (#2) with low beam off = 0 V, low beam  on, 11.7V, hi beam on also showed 12V
Then, same grd connector to top connector (#3) low beam on= 0V, hi beam on, 12.08V
Then I connected #2 and #3, no lights =0V, low beam on =11.7V, hi beam=0V

Could it be both lamps blew? Perhaps last downer never used ( he did not drive car at night) and when I used thenpm after I got car I stress them and they both blew...
That is my only thought seeing they worked once, wiring remains the same...
Let me know what you think
Peter

[J. Gomez]

Peter,

Doubtful that both seal lamps are burnt-out. I would take a wild guess probably a broken wire splice at one of the brass connectors (foot switch or headlamp socket). 

Since you already checked (per your previous post) voltage at the headlight lamp sockets and found no voltage with the high beams, only thing left is;
The brass connector at the foot switch (broken/open connection where the wire splice), wire itself up the hardness to the LH socket or a bad/broken wire connection at that socket which per the diagram both the LH and RH headlights plus the one from the floor switch are all tight together.

Since you already verify you have +12v at the #2 terminal at the foot switch when the foot switch is “on”, testing the output at the wire from the terminal would validate there is a connection at the terminal.

What I usually do to verify if there is voltage up the length of the wire is, to poke a small sewing needle through the center of the wire about ½ way making sure the needle makes contact and take my measurements. This is down and duty but is the only way if you do not have other electrical testing tools.

HTH

[papas52cad]

Hi Jose
Ok so u think there is a Break in the wire between switch and the lamp terminal socket..correct..
I agree that it seems unlikely both went at same time, but since they both worked just 3 weeks ago, it is hard to imagine wire is an issue, but hey who knows...I assume you agree the sixth is ok..right... So to be clear..what you suggest is to test continuity of the high beam wire to the LH (driver side) lamp socket by having the dimmer switch turned on to high... And find a point between( using you needle technique) and the terminal in lamp socket to see if voltage is flowing..correct?
Thx again for staying with me to help figure this out, frustrating after knowing both lamp hi beams worked just a few weeks ago...a part of the fun of having a 65 yr old car..

[J. Gomez]

Hi Jose
Ok so u think there is a Break in the wire between switch and the lamp terminal socket..correct..
I agree that it seems unlikely both went at same time, but since they both worked just 3 weeks ago, it is hard to imagine wire is an issue, but hey who knows...I assume you agree the sixth is ok..right... So to be clear..what you suggest is to test continuity of the high beam wire to the LH (driver side) lamp socket by having the dimmer switch turned on to high... And find a point between( using you needle technique) and the terminal in lamp socket to see if voltage is flowing..correct?
Thx again for staying with me to help figure this out, frustrating after knowing both lamp hi beams worked just a few weeks ago...a part of the fun of having a 65 yr old car..

Peter,

Correct, not sure if you already did check voltage at the headlights high beam side at the sockets, I thought you already did.

I'm sure there should be mid-point connectors at the main hardness where the headlights wires would plug in looking at the '51 wiring diagram it looks like they have them (the square blocks with a black dot at the center).

That would be the best place to start testing, not sure where those connectors may be located on your car. Probably they can be found around the radiator support not sure on your year,  maybe someone with a '52 can chime in.

Good luck..!

[papas52cad]

Thank you once again.
I do find 2 blocks ( they are heavily taped along with wire coming into them) I saw these..unknown to me as to what they might be until just now reading your post. They are under the front frame tucked under and just in front of radiator...hmmm I was fiddling with them just the other day to try to understand what they were..now maybe you have helped solve that..
Looks like I may have to unwrap tape...perhaps I disturbed something, since they are bent 90 degrees to fit under the frame..
Ok more to check. Stay tuned..hopefully with a solution
Peter