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Transmission Repair

Started by LoStreet, January 24, 2018, 04:33:39 PM

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LoStreet

Hello, I am new here.  Have a 55 Fleetwood, all original.  I'm not a mechanic, just a driver.  I love that car; I try to keep it up, but have serious financial  limitations.  I just spent over $2000 for brakes recently (a totally different discussion if anyone is interested), that's all I have in the car fund.  Wanted you to know where I'm coming from.  So my question will offend the purists out there, but here it is anyway.  The transmission leaks moderately, maybe a 1/2 quart a month with infrequent driving.  I am planning to put it up on a rack, find the leak, dry it, and apply something, probably either the gunk from a tube of exhaust system patch, or plumbers' soft-gray stick epoxy.  Please tell me if I am totally crazy and what the downside of this might be (or help with a better solution).  Thank you much! (PS: Just throwing in a pic of my Caddy for no real reason) L. Street

Barry M Wheeler #2189

You will probably get all kinds of replies, but I'll throw in my answer before the experts show up. If what you put on the outside of the transmission case "fixes" the leak for now, why not? If worse comes to worse, you can grind the stuff off you apply with a Dremel tool or whatever when you have the funds to do it "right." Whatever, if this "works", I'd still watch the level like a hawk. Best of luck, and you have a pretty car!
Barry M. Wheeler #2189


1981 Cadillac Seville
1991 Cadillac Seville

WTL

All I would say is, when you find the leak you will have a much better idea of what you can do to fix it. You might find that its something, like where a line goes in, that you would be better fixing right and that would not be expensive.  I freaked once when I started blowing a ton of oil out, from near where the engine and tranny bolted up.  My mind raced with ideas on how I could fix it without a full engine rebuild.  Then, I looked for a leak and found it was a simple sensor that had cracked.  20 bucks later, the leak was done.

I wish you that kind of fortune. 




Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373

#3
Agree with everyone. First thing is to see where it is leaking. This will tell you what your next step is. You will be tempted to tighten the crap out of every bolt you find to stop the leaks-dont. Tighten them down to specs. You don't want to distort anything or break the head off of a bolt. Also, once you clean it, let it sit. Need to see if it leaks just sitting or when it is running. If it leaks when running then does it leak at idle also or just when you are actually driving?

I am getting a 55 back on the road myself. Just did all the brakes so I know what you mean.
I just drove mine to work for the 1st time today.

I see this is your 1st post so let us educate you. It is NEVER wrong to post a picture!!  Pretty car. Like that color. Ours is light blue.
Jeff
Jeff Rosansky
CLC #28373
1970 Coupe DeVille (Big Red)
1955 Series 62 (Baby Blue)
Dad's new 1979 Coupe DeVille

Jay Friedman

I'd be interested in your brake story. 
1949 Cadillac 6107 Club Coupe
1932 Ford V8 Phaeton (restored, not a rod).  Sold
Decatur, Georgia
CLC # 3210, since 1984
"If it won't work, get a bigger hammer."

Caddyholic

I think there are only few places these leak. Some easy to fix rear tail seal,pan and cooler lines. some hard to fix front seal and taurs cover, rear Governor gasket. one semi easy gear selector input shaft. 
I got myself a Cadillac but I can't afford the gasoline (AC/DC Down Payment Blues)

1961 Series 62 Convertible Coupe http://bit.ly/1RCYsVZ
1962 Coupe Deville

LoStreet

Thanks to all for the great replies - I shoulda been on here long ago.  I'll let you know what I found and did after I get the car is up on a rack next week.  One thing I should add that might help - I live in the SF Bay Area (7 million people), and it is still next to impossible to find anybody to work on classic cars (not considering whether they are any good or not, as you will see from my brake story below).  For the transmission, even worse.  WTL mentioned fixing a leak where a line goes in, but I wouldn't know how to do that, and when I mentioned the problem to the last mechanic who worked on my brakes (the good one), he wouldn't even look at it to see if it might be a minor fix.  I understand that - he's afraid if that wasn't the real problem or something else happened later, I would blame him for botching the job, which, he's right, I probably would.  He estimated $1,000 to even look at my transmission and up to $5,000 for a complete repair.  Now you know why I'm buying a $5 tube of epoxy patch.

To respond to Jeff, it only leaks when it's running.  So I'll let it run for a while before I raise the lift.  I should also say there is another small leak I'm concerned about, just at the center of the rear axle.  I am assuming it could only be two things - something to do with the driveshaft (in which case I will do nothing) or a brake fluid leak (in which case I will take it back to the brake repair mechanic).

Now, to try and describe the brake problems for Jay and Jeff, as best as I can, being a non-mechanic.  I actually withheld part of the story - I actually spent about $3,500 total on the brakes.  I went to 3 garages, all of which screwed up the job to the tune of over $1,500.  I would have maybe tried to sue if it had been only one, but given it was three , I wouldn't know who to sue, and besides, suing is not my style.  And complaining or even suing is probably why most mechanics won't touch these cars.  So, the 4th guy, I'm still hoping did the job right.  The crux of the problem was the replacement master cylinder(s).  The 4th mechanic said he finds that at least half of the master cylinders you order from the national parts houses (I won't mention in print which one I used, but you would all know the name) were defective.  To add to the problem, the bottom of the brake pedal (which I should have replaced too) was somewhat bent, so the cylinder piston rod didn't engage correctly inside the cylinder, causing it to clog up with fluid and freeze up the brakes.  I sent the first cylinder back, which they replaced for free.  But even the second one, the mechanic said you can't just install without monkeying around inside the cylinder to guarantee proper alignment.  Also, part of the final problem was my fault - I drove too far with the brakes grabbing, and damaged the drums and other things.

The second issue was the power brake booster.  The first 3 guys said you could bypass my old lousy one - the brakes would work, just with less or no power.   I don't really know for sure that that is untrue, because I never got far enough to see because of the bad master cylinders.  But the 4th mechanic said no way, so I paid the extra $450 for a new (rebuilt) booster, and so far, I'm glad I did.

So that's why I am now at the stage of trying to make ticky-tacky patches myself.  If the transmission didn't work fine with the fluid topped off, I might go the prohibitively expensive route again, although I would probably have to sell the car.  As for making sure it's full of fluid, it's actually pretty easy to tell without any dipstick - it just starts slipping barely between first and second, and when it gets more noticeable, add some more fluid!   Thanks again guys!

Dave Shepherd

Most of those weak excuses for the brake issues are mechanical bs.  The master and booster on that car can be somewhat difficult to get set up right, especially with poor quality aftermarket parts.  We do work like this in my shop and this type of work is not for folks inexperienced with these cars.  This car is going to be a difficult car to maintain from what you say about the shops in your area. If the trans only leaks running that usually internal, or hopefully a cooler line, good luck with this.

Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373

Yep.
I just did the master cylinder, all wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware, had the drums turned, the booster and all hard and rubber lines. I am still sore.
Also, just a tip as you don't work on it yourself. You need to know this anytime you take it to a shop or if AAA changes a tire....... the left side has left-handed lug nuts. I just about killed myself before I realized it.

As The Johnny says, this is just a hobby. If it needs to be parked for a while then let it sit until you can get it fixed.

However, use this forum. If you have a problem then post it. If the fix isn't something you can do personally then at least you will know what you are talking about with your mechanic. No reason to pay them to have your "blinker" fluid topped off----- :)
Jeff
Jeff Rosansky
CLC #28373
1970 Coupe DeVille (Big Red)
1955 Series 62 (Baby Blue)
Dad's new 1979 Coupe DeVille

35-709

#9
Two things come to mind ---
#1 - For yours and your mechanic's better understanding of your car, a Cadillac factory shop manual is a must.  The 1955 Cadillac shop manual was a supplement to the 1954, requiring you to have books from both years, here is a link to one that combines the two years ---
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CADILLAC-SHOP-MANUAL-SERVICE-REPAIR-1954-1955-BOOK/221363005044?epid=1657966304&hash=item338a436674:g:6-sAAOSwEVZaT77A&vxp=mtr

#2 - Unless you can find a shop and/or mechanic knowledgeable about your car or at least willing to learn instead of just throwing up their hands and charging big bucks for their learning curve, you are not going to be happy with your fine car.  I suggest you join the Cadillac & LaSalle Club and find a local Cadillac & LaSalle Club chapter, or at least another old Cadillac owner, to help you find a good and reputable shop or mechanic in your area.  I don't see that you mention where you are from but there are CLC chapters all over the U.S.  Your 63 year old car needs certain special knowledge and a competent mechanic familiar with it or at the very least one interested in it and willing to learn its idiosyncrasies without charging you an arm and a leg for his education.

To be able to have and maintain an old car you need to be one of two things ---  a good mechanic or wealthy enough to be able to afford one.
1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2