back up light extraction

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

OK folks, how the flip do you get this out... As I remember you're supposed to push in and rotate left to remove. There's a wee bit of rotation with the bulb, but that's it, it won't come out. Solution?

\m/
Laurie

[35-709]

You might try sticking the "straw" on a WD-40 can around the bulb base and squirt in there, then keep wiggling the bulb 'til it lets loose. 

[35-709]

When you get it out, clean up the socket as best you can and then be sure to use bulb grease on the bulb base when you put the new bulb in.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-Bulb-Grease-5-oz/37202082

Loctite makes it also --- should be available at most any auto parts store or (as you can see) Wal-Mart.

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

You might try sticking the "straw" on a WD-40 can around the bulb base and squirt in there, then keep wiggling the bulb 'til it lets loose.

WD40 on an electrical connection?
How about a squirt of DeOxit instead??

\m/
Laurie?

[35-709]

WD-40 is fine!  You could also use it in a pinch instead of bulb grease.  Although I would far prefer the bulb grease ---
trust me!   

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

WD-40 is fine!  You could also use it in a pinch instead of bulb grease.

Okee doakee! <she types quivering>

\m/
Laurie!

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Still a push in and rotate left, correct??

Laurie?

[35-709]

Yes!   

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Just be careful that you don't press too hard, and smash the glass, and cut your precious skin in the process.   Blood is so hard to clean up after it has dried, and dry it will because it takes a long time to get back from the hospital, or the First Aid centre after applying a Bandaid or two.

If it was a double pole globe, you would be dealing with is soldered lumps on the base of the globe, which over time, indent themselves over the spring-loaded terminals.

Bruce.

PS.   Sometimes it is easier to break the glass, and insert a pair of pliers and attack it that way.

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

Mine were welded in there. As Bruce said, wear a cheap glove because the bulb may very well break. I had to actually remove the whole fixture (which was not fun) and replace the socket with a Dorman type generic socket in the housing and then reinstall.  I wouldn't suggest that route. If it doesn't come out easily I would just take the whole fixture out and soak it for a couple of days with penetrating oil.
And yes, WD40 works just fine on electrical stuff. Can use in sparkplug boots too.
Jeff

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Bruce, would you believe I'm a certified First Responder? 1 level under paramedic. I actually carry with me at work a suture kit, staples and steri-strips/betadine with saline, bandaging, gloves, etc. Depending on how badly I hurt myself or the injury to one of my guys, I can patch me/them up, and back to work!

I do electrical... I replaced my home's panel, added "no go" LED lights directly onto the legs from the street,  and built in my home's generator back up system to said panel. WD40 on an electrical part just shucks my corn but - OKEE DOAKEE!

you guys RAWK!
\m/
Laurie!

[59-in-pieces]

OK, another option.
I have found that the reason the bulb locks up is because of calcium left over from a leaking lens gasket which fills in the grooves into which the "tits" nubs on each side of the bulb bases that slide in and then rotate into the 90 degree grooves to lock the bulb tight into the socket - talk about your run on sentence.
I use CLR (calcium,lime, Rust) remover.
I often soak the socket with the bulb locked in, a couple of times.
If the bulbs move even slightly - up and down - the CLR gets in there and loosens even quicker.
In a day or so, the bulbs free right up, without having a paramedic on call.
Just a suggestion,
Have fun,
Steve B.

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

OK, another option.
I have found that the reason the bulb locks up is because of calcium left over from a leaking lens gasket which fills in the grooves into which the "" nubs on each side of the bulb bases that slide in and then rotate into the 90 degree grooves to lock the bulb tight into the socket - talk about your run on sentence.
I use CLR (calcium,lime, Rust) remover.
I often soak the socket with the bulb locked in, a couple of times.
If the bulbs move even slightly - up and down - the CLR gets in there and loosens even quicker.
In a day or so, the bulbs free right up, without having a paramedic on call.
Just a suggestion,
Have fun,
Steve B.

Glad that works for you! My concern would be the glycol in the CLR eating the insulation
around the wires, what do I know... Its why the WD40 and the petroleum in it scares me
me too, eating the wire insulation. Where as a chemical like DeOxit poses no danger to electrical
components. But I'll try the WD40, you guys know better than me about these old cars!

\m/
Laurie!

[cadillacmike68]

Okee doakee! <she types quivering>

\m/
Laurie!

It's only 12V. It won't short anything out. It's not like house current 120-240V.

At least you don't have to take the bumper off like 1966 owners do...

[59-in-pieces]

I am not trying to be contrary or force my opinion on anyone - HOWEVER - I have used the CLR for many many moons (years actually) and have never found the insulation to have been eaten away or softened - and I don't know from Glycol - but it works and well - and should have previously included lime being removed.
Oh by the way, I have soaked individual sockets - with pigtails - in the CLR (for months on end in a closed glass jar) even without the bulb in it because I wanted to start with a nice clean surface (good contact surface) going forward - avoiding problems later.
And yes, I have tried WD40, and it worked OK if the corruption/corrosion in the socket was not too thick or crusty.
Have fun,
Steve B.

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

And I still can't get the bulb out... 
Gave it another douche with WD40, I'll try again tomorrow.

\m/
Laurie

[Mike Josephic CLC #3877]

Learned something new -- never heard of DeOxit.  I
looked up the formulation and it's neat stuff for cleaning
sensitive electronic equipment.   

As far as the bulb, if you still can't get it out tomorrow
after the WD-40 soak, twisting it will likely separate the
glass bulb from the socket.  Then things will get easier. 
Take a pair of needle nose pliers, grab the side of the
socket and twist it out.  This will not be the only time
you'll have to do this!

Mike

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Learned something new -- never heard of DeOxit.  I looked
up the formulation and it's neat stuff for cleaning sensitive
electronic equipment.   

As far as the bulb, if you still can't get it out tomorrow after the
WD-40 soak, twisting it will likely separate the glass bulb from
the socket.  Then things will get easier.  Take a pair of needle
nose pliers, grab the side of the socket and twist it out.  This will
not be the only time you'll have to do this!

Mike

Mike why don't I just break the bulb, use the pliers, and put myself out of my misery?
\m/
Laurie?

PS: DeOxit, can't imagine life without it. Especially as a guitar tech. Nothing quiets noisy pots and jacks like it. Around the house too, outlets that are hard to plug into? Give it a squirt. I'm a mile from the ocean here, myself and my clients often have electrical issues in the home because of the salty, corrosive air. Oxidized outlets and switches 'can' create an arking condition, not so good. When I bought this house 14 years ago I replaced EVERY switch and outlet, and each were oxidized, badly. I used sandpaper to make the wires shiny copper again, then some die-electric grease with my fingers on the wires, then made the new connection. 14 years later they all look brand new still. All my outdoor outlets get a squirt of DeOxit annually, done during the spring mntx schedule. Even with the grease on the connections. All the connections on the generator get a squirt during the fall mntx.

[Bob Kielar]

Hello Laurie,
                    I have one of these bulb removal tools works well.
Keep Cruzin,
Bob Kielar

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Hello Laurie,
                    I have one of these bulb removal tools works well.
Keep Cruzin,
Bob Kielar

Did you make that?
Laurie?