55 Autronic Eye

[Art Gardner CLC 23021]

Here is a question that Jose Gomez can probably answer in his sleep, but it stumps me.  My 55 FW has not had functioning high beams since I bought it last year.  I tried replacing the power relay, but that didn't help.  I tried removing and rebuilding the foot switch (dimmer switch), but that didn't help either.  However, when I removed (and taped off) the tan wire that was attached to the dimmer switch, instantly the dimmer switch started to give me high beams reliably.  No I can switch between low and high beams at will.


What is causing this?

[J. Gomez]

Here is a question that Jose Gomez can probably answer in his sleep, but it stumps me.  My 55 FW has not had functioning high beams since I bought it last year.  I tried replacing the power relay, but that didn't help.  I tried removing and rebuilding the foot switch (dimmer switch), but that didn't help either.  However, when I removed (and taped off) the tan wire that was attached to the dimmer switch, instantly the dimmer switch started to give me high beams reliably.  No I can switch between low and high beams at will.


What is causing this?

Art,

The way you have the foot switch wired the “violet” on the “B” side (long post) and the “Yellow” on #1 (yellow is connected to ground at the power relay case) when the foot switch is close between these (B-1) it will operate the power relay (headlight are LB) once you switch it again (B-2) it will release the power relay for the UB. When the Autronic Eye operates (under normal conditions) it places a ground at the “Tan” to switch between LB and UB, once it stops it will removed the ground and the headlight will go back to “LB”.

Since you have an issue with your Autronic Eye amplifier the power amplifier is putting a ground on the “Tan” if you leave it as you have it on the picture, it will not be able to switch to the “UB” since you have ground on both the “Tan” and “Yellow” back to the “Violet”, thus when you removed it now you have the “UB”.

HTH

[Art Gardner CLC 23021]

So, the way it WAS wired is correct, but the AE amplifier has a problem?  And my solution of removing the tan wire from the foot switch is appropriate until I can figure out the problem with the AE amplifier, correct?

[J. Gomez]

So, the way it WAS wired is correct, but the AE amplifier has a problem?  And my solution of removing the tan wire from the foot switch is appropriate until I can figure out the problem with the AE amplifier, correct?

Art,

The way you have it wired “Violet” at the “BATT” terminal (long strip) and either “yellow” or “Tan” on the others would be correct, the “BATT” contact would make on either #1 or #2 when pressed.

Here is a wiring diagram which I had to modify to show the correct wiring from the original one.
When “B” and #2 make ground from the “Yellow” will operate the power relay turning the “UB” when “B” and #1 make with no ground from the power amplifier will release the power relay to turn the “LB” once the Autronic Eye is active the power amplifier would then extend a ground on the “Tan” to turn the “UB”.

If you have the later model on your 1955 the power amplifier and phototube unit are the same as the 1956. The “DIM” and “HOLD” adjustment would be on the amplifier. The early 1955 one would be similar to the 1954 and the “HOLD” is at the amplifier and the “DIM” at the phototube.

If you want to disable the power at the power amplifier until you have the time to further troubleshoot it, you can removed the main plug inside. Leaving it as is and just removing the “Tan” the amplifier still have power from the headlight switch at the “Light Blue” wire.

Just a word of caution, the early one generate around 900V DC voltage while the later ones are 800-900 AC voltage for the phototube, so just be careful around it. 

Good luck..!

[55 ledsled]

Hey guys. Hoping that you could help me. I had the front of my 55 apart, and now its back together. I have no headlights/fog lights but my tail lights work. I have a yellow wire coming off of the wire harness (drivers side) with about a 1/4" bolt eye connector on the end of it and the wire is about 8" long and I can't figure out where it goes. I threw a meter on it and it shows 12v power when I pull the headlight switch out. Everything is factory, and the guts of the eye controller seem to warm up. Any ideas of where that goes would help me get my lights working again. Thanks

[J. Gomez]

Hey guys. Hoping that you could help me. I had the front of my 55 apart, and now its back together. I have no headlights/fog lights but my tail lights work. I have a yellow wire coming off of the wire harness (drivers side) with about a 1/4" bolt eye connector on the end of it and the wire is about 8" long and I can't figure out where it goes. I threw a meter on it and it shows 12v power when I pull the headlight switch out. Everything is factory, and the guts of the eye controller seem to warm up. Any ideas of where that goes would help me get my lights working again. Thanks

Adam,

Replay to your other post -> http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=154818.0