1955 Filter questions

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

Ok, can't believe I am asking this--but as I have posted many times I have posted some stupid questions here so might as well post another.
--Oil filter. Is there a checkvalve on the drain? My filter stays full of oil. Did first oil change yesterday and it had oil in it. This morning still has oil in it and she is showing about half a quart low (put in 5). I cleaned the lines and it seemed to be clear when I originally cleaned it but I can't remember if I looked for a checkvalve.
--Air filter. I have 3 pieces. A base, a filter element and the cover. When I use all 3 pieces it doesn't seem to fit right leaving a gap which is unpainted. If I don't use the filter element then I can't really tighten it down because the cover just compresses under the wing nut. It seems like a spacer would be needed.
I know these should be elementary questions but----
Thanks
Jeff

[Jon S]

Believe your engine calls for 6 quarts with the filter.

[D.Yaros]

Will let the experts definitively answer, but I do not believe oil filter check valves were a part of the 1955 apparatus?

As for the air filter, perhaps your filter element is not properly seated?  Addressing your real question, I know what you mean when referencing compression stops one from really tightening down the air filter housing.  Would not a piece of tubing, pipe of sufficient diameter to fit over the air filter stud in the carb air horn and cut to the proper length provide the needed support to tighten the wing nut down?

I am sure you are not the only person to experience the constantly moving air filter housing problem.  Hopefully, other will chime in with their solutions?

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

Believe your engine calls for 6 quarts with the filter.

Well , you are right. Good catch. So does this mean that 1 qt is designed to stay in the filter housing?
Jeff

[35-709]

Most of the oil in the filter housing should come out with the filter itself (messy), leaving a small amount in the bottom of the housing that can be removed with a suction gun or even a couple of shop rags that are already destined for the trash.  Just like many engines with spin-on filters, the crankcase takes 4 quarts --- plus one more for the filter,  in your case 5 plus 1.

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

Ok, so it is normal to have oil leftover.  How much is normal. I had about a quarter to a third of the canister full of oil after i removed the filter element. With the outlet being on the bottom of the canister there must be some sort of checkvalve/restriction. I want to be able to check it. If it is plugged then the canister could overfill and overflow past the rubber gasket. Our engine has enough oil leaks as it is.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The tube in the middle of the filter can is the return line, as you noted. There is a small hole near the top, the oil is coming back to the engine via this small hole. Therefore, no need to have a valve.

[Lexi]

Hi Jeff. Regarding your oil filter. As I recall my '56 holds about 6 quarts which takes into account that in the paper oil filter as well as what is in the oil filter canister. Until the new oil fully soaks into the replacement filter you might have to top it up for a bit after your oil change as well. I partially fill the canister (say a quarter) prior to putting in the new oil filter. I do not believe there is a check valve there, but I do believe your filter originally came with a spacer that sat at the bottom of the canister, probably to keep the filter elevated and away from what sludge might have collected at the bottom. May also improve oil circulation in the canister itself. It may also take longer to drain if there is no spacer and the bottom of the filter sits lower and perhaps interferes with the return line. Not sure about that though. I know with mine I could let it sit over night and like yours it would not drain back into the engine on it's own. Not sure how long it would take. I use a turkey baster to get it all out, then wipe it clean with a rag. No exploded illustrations of this system in the MPL as I recall, 

Regarding your air filter, that one has me stumped. Hopefully your threads on your hold down post are not stripped at a critical point, (thus not allowing you to properly torque down your air filter unit)-or compromised base threads in the carburetor??? Judging by your photos, the unit appears correct for your car. As these filter sets were used on other vehicles I wonder if different sized parts such as the metal inside mesh unit for example, was used on some other types of automobiles? If all else fails to make sense, perhaps you got a "mix and match" unit, (hence the fitment problem), but again that is sheer speculation at this point. Clay/Lexi

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

Ok, thanks. If Clay has oil in the canister after sitting overnight too then I guess I won't worry about it. It just seems that it should all drain away after it sits for a bit.... if it doesn't then I wonder why. My main concern is that it was plugged then it would fill up and eventually make its way out the top. I also used a turkey baster to drain it. I do still have the spacer at the bottom. I guess the design is to fill up and just have the oil work it's way thru the filter.

As for the air cleaner it is possible the parts are mismatched. If I have the filter element in the base and put the cover on it I can get it nice and tight. If I dont use the filter element then i can just keep tightening the wingnut and the cover just compresses. It seems I either need the filter element (I guess I just rinse that off to clean it?) or a spacer.
Do I need all 3 pieces or can I just make a spacer, use the base with oil in it and the cover? This filter assembly is a bit before my time and I haven't been able to find an exploded view of the parts.
Jeff

[Roger Zimmermann]

If Clay has oil in the canister after sitting overnight too then I guess I won't worry about it. It just seems that it should all drain away after it sits for a bit.... if it doesn't then I wonder why.

Jeff, even if you are waiting one year, the canister will not get empty. How could it when the hole for the return is near the top of the canister? Reread what I wrote earlier and look yourself for that small hole.

The air filter is designed to have all 3 parts together to function properly. If you are skipping one, you will either have no filtering or the oil may be sucked into the engine. As I sold my '56 de Ville 2 years ago, I cannot check anymore. I remember however that I put on side the filtering element and put a paper filter instead. You may use this solution to have the incoming air filtered. Don't ask for the type of air cartridge element, I gave all to the new owner.

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

I think you hit the nail on the head Roger..... mine may be hooked up backwards. My pressure line is the top and the drain is the bottom. I took off the lines 1 at a time when I cleaned them so maybe someone in the past reversed them
They seem to fit ok (bending wise) but they may have been replaced at 1 time.
My bottom center line goes into the oil filler neck. My top line goes into the port at the valley cover. Just after the oil change I kept the filter out and watched oil shoot out od the top port.
So, please confirm.... where to does the top line go and where does the bottom center line go?
Jeff

[Roger Zimmermann]

It seems that my explanation is so bad that you don't understand! The pressure line is coming at the top of the canister, on the side. The return line is at the bottom of the canister, like you have. The return line is connected to the tube on which the filter is slipped. Somewhere near the top of that tube, there is a small hole allowing the oil, once filtered, to go back to the engine. Just look at that damned tube, you will see the hole!
As I'm not ready now to make an oil and filter change to my '56 Biarritz, I cannot make a picture from the tube and his hole, sorry. You may imagine that many years ago I had the same thinking, trying to understand how that system is functioning. So, do the same and let work your brain!
It would create much less mess during the replacement of the cartridge if the hole would be at the bottom of the tube, but the oil would drain back each time the motor is not running. This would allow the engine to run without oil pressure the time it would take to fill up the canister.

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

Sorry, never saw the little hole until now. Makes sense.