53 Series 75 Pinion Seal - Seeking Advice and Part Sources

[Tye_Cowan]

A posting from 2010 was informative on the topic, but I am not sure if it was for a 53 S75.  With this thread, I would like the current prevailing opinions on Pinion Seal installation techniques.   

Yes, I do have the Service Manual.  It was written back in the day when Mechanics knew tricks and techniques that were not recorded in the book.

With that said:

• What should be watched for when disassembling to remove the seal?
  What specific tools, or techniques should be used when installing the new one?
  When reassembling, what should be noted?

Finally, on the Parts Sources....  Who would you buy a Pinion Seal from?  I ask, because I rebuilt the Power Steering Pump, and one of the O-Rings was the wrong thickness, which made the pump not work.  CaddyDaddy says the Pinion Seal comes in 2 sizes, but without advice on what size went with what, or even what the 2 choices are.  Help here would be good too.

How you reply will determine if I do this in my driveway, or take my baby to a local mechanic who others in our local CLC chapter use.  If I take it there, I will share your comments with him.

[Bobby B]

Tye,
Hi..Before disassembly you need to take a few readings regarding bearing pre-load and rotating torque. I don't know how your rear is set-up, but if it has a "Crush" collar (or sleeve), these measurements are crucial to the relationship between your ring and pinion gears. Some people mark the pinion nut in relationship to the threads before removing the nut and when re-assembling they go just a hair past the original mark. I like to use an inch/lbs. torque wrench with a positive stop adjustable dial so I can see where I'm at and compare it to the original factory spec. If you're not changing the crush collar and it's within spec, just get it back to where it was before you started. If you go overboard on the torque, your crush collar is toast and you'll be starting over. Most old school crush collars take about 300 ft/lbs. of torque to get the collar to start crushing, and it's very easy to go overboard and again, you'll be starting over with a new collar. A 6' long breaker bar is usually needed to hold it back from turning to get that much torque on the nut. Don't use the impact gun method if you want your rear to lead a happy and long life. There is a company called Ratech that makes these excellent progressive style crush collars (Smart Sleeves) that allow you to come up on the torque number gradually instead of overdoing it and starting over. Plus the starting point of initial crush is way less than the factory style. I've used this product with excellent results over the years. If you need to borrow the torque wrench to measure the preload, I have it, and it's yours for the ride both ways. Good luck!
                                                                                  Bobby

http://www.ratechmfg.com/smart%20sleeve.htm

[Jay Friedman]

From, I think, '41 till '56 the differentials were the same except for the gear ratio.  During this period there are 2 types of seal; some are one type and the rest another, with no pattern according to year or model.  As far as I know, Olcar Bearing Co., Southern Pines, N. Carolina sells both types of seal.  The last time I replaced this seal I couldn't tell by looking which type my car had, so I bought one of each and returned to Olcar the one I didn't use. 

[Tye_Cowan]

Thanks for the "Crush" education.  I'll be sure to let the mechanic know.

I just got off the phone with George at "Olcar Bearing", and he is shipping both to me.

He also mentioned that one of the seal types has a "nose cone" that must be removed very gently, because it must be reused.

Great thing is, George's price tag for both (combined) was cheaper than either seal from online competitors.

[harry s]

If your set up is the cone type the easiest way to remove without damage is once the pinion yoke is removed take a punch and drive the  seal inward from the cone. Then clean the sealing edges as best you can, do a soaking with PB Blaster then use a small puller to remove the come. Good Luck,      Harry

[walt chomosh #23510]

I went to NAPA to buy my seal.....twice. For whatever reason, the first one leaked so I got to repeat the process. All has been well now for 10-15 years or so....walt...tulsa,ok