headlight replacement began today....

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

'began' so obviously I'm not done... after nearly 5 hours...
Started on the drivers side, immediately found the headlights, though stated to be the correct diameter, aren't.
They were quite loose in the headlight ring, what to do? Mama always said have mole skin.
I found 4 pieces on each side snugged up the headlight perfectly, and kept it even looking in the ring. As my "phone a friend" Mike Josephic said today such is important, and quite correct I agreed. 2nd light a screw stripped, argh. Decided to use the Dremel and cut out the front and back of the screw then drill it out. Wore out the batteries on my 20v DeWalt and broke 2 bits. To the electric DeWalt, broke 3 more bits but finally success. The sheet metal screws I bought when I refurbished the cowl in the early spring are the perfect size replacements for the elderly, rusty screws.

The headlight rings and the bezel went into the kitchen for a thorough but gentle wash with an SOS soap pad.
The headlights connectors are original, and they were welded onto the old lights. Used DeOxit as a lube to get them off. Then cleaned the connectors well with a toothbrush, a good spray with DeOxit, even the new headlight prongs got hit with DeOxit. Now I know I have a perfect electrical contact. Buttoned up the drivers side, looked so purdy. On to the pax side.

I had sprayed all the screws with WD40 on Mike's advice after the issue on the drivers side earlier.

Inside light came right off, out. The connector is a replacement and the wires are badly crimped inside the connector. Yeah they work, but, outta here. New pig tail one tomorrow from Autozone, I'll cut, solder, heat shrink, wrap.

Outside light, the upper screw is bent all the way backwards. Small pry bar please. Got it upright, and the screw head is bald, its just a hole, and I'm not going through what I did on the right side. Off with the aiming screws and spring, took the whole assembly out, unscrewed that screw from the back with a pliers. And that connector too is a bad replacement, that gets replaced tomorrow too. Cup back in, now we're getting our headlights re-aimed. Cleaned the bezel and headlight rings, attached the mole skin so the headlights are tight. This should be done tomorrow. I want to replace the headlight switch too, its in stock, $12.

The headlights were 4 for $50 from Octane Lighting on Amazon. I know you guys use $50 a piece headlights, and they probably would have fit properly, I'm not in your league financially. I didn't even pay the $50, opened an Amazon Visa card there, got a $50 gift certificate, so they were free. A little mole skin and they're perfect.

If we're Facebook friends here's a live video that explains all this in detail.

=68.ARC6akCqC_ONz5TJji2itMM8xTcPiHszxvX3-6savWDfyYGrbGfb63XcBnTvWs-Fqi-0eoewIOrQEx3ZhLaH6qGkrxPEIegx39o7fXpqphA30buTF5nZok0vFItQsNuE9-qTa1_3GsnaxjykFOOeGFAvpGb3vFx-ygnDeyeSnZjsaaZtBNWMpg&__tn__=-R]https://www.facebook.com/laurie.kraynick/videos/1881993938582413/?__xts__[0]=68.ARC6akCqC_ONz5TJji2itMM8xTcPiHszxvX3-6savWDfyYGrbGfb63XcBnTvWs-Fqi-0eoewIOrQEx3ZhLaH6qGkrxPEIegx39o7fXpqphA30buTF5nZok0vFItQsNuE9-qTa1_3GsnaxjykFOOeGFAvpGb3vFx-ygnDeyeSnZjsaaZtBNWMpg&__tn__=-R

But here's pics if we're not on Facebook.

PITA job, but its 'fun'. Looking forward to it being 'done'.

Also got the trunk light replaced, nice.

\m/
Laurie

[Scot Minesinger]

no lens on trunk light, that is correct

[bcroe]

I started replacing those sheet metal screws with stainless versions
from McMaster plus a little anti seize. 

A wet area, I like to do a solder joint, perhaps put on a smaller heat
shrink, put on a coating of liquid tape and then a longer, larger dia
heat shrink.  When the liquid tape squeezes out the ends, you have
a pretty much water proof connection. 

Don't forget OxGard on the contacts.  Bruce Roe

[cadillacmike68]

Didn't I tell you those tiny ring hold down screws would be a PITA? Once out, if you clean them and spray them with some anti-rust, they'll be easier to get out the next time.

You couldn't find the round headlights at AZ, NAPA or somewhere?

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

no lens on trunk light, that is correct

Thanks Scot!
\m/
Laurie

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Didn't I tell you those tiny ring hold down screws would be a PITA? Once out, if you clean them and spray them with some anti-rust, they'll be easier to get out the next time.

You couldn't find the round headlights at AZ, NAPA or somewhere?

Screws are gone Mike, used the SS screws I used in the cowl, perfect fit.
AZ, NAPA etc had them, more expensive in some instances, these were 'free'!

Free is good.

\m/
Laurie

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

AND so much for that... thinking NAPA, AZ, etc would have the proper headlight sockets/pigtails.
The factory ones are 'sealed', the NAPA/etc stuff for the most part are crimped and open to moisture/debris.
The only sealed pigtail they had is a 3 wire.

1970 requires a 4 wire on the outie headlight. Some turnip has both green wires smooshed (technical term) into 1 spot on the current socket. I've looked everywhere for one. When USAParts says 70-85, not true, 85 was 3 wire.

Tried Summit, OPGI, etc, no joy.

And I thought finding rotors was hard.

So I'm calling Gary Lucianna tomorrow (he answers the phone, or calls you right back) and John Gately, who never answers the phone. I'm going to need good used parts.

Yes the headlights are working with the cheapo parts and the jury rigged socket. But with the overheat of the headlight switch that happened in the spring, I want to go 'correct' with everything.

If anyone has any ideas for other folks that might have these pigtails lying around, I'd appreciate contact info, thank you!

\m/
Laurie

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

author=Cape Cod Fleetwood link=topic=151947.msg407672#msg407672 date=1537764345
The factory ones are 'sealed', the NAPA/etc stuff for the most part are crimped and open to moisture/debris.    Laurie   

G'day Laurie,

I have never seen sealed headlights from Cadillac, or GM for any vehicles around the age of your vehicle.

All I have seen is the crimped plugs pressed into the "plastic" plug holders.

Bruce.

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

G'day Laurie,

I have never seen sealed headlights from Cadillac, or GM for any vehicles around the age of your vehicle.

All I have seen is the crimped plugs pressed into the "plastic" plug holders.

Bruce.

G'day Bruce!
the original ones on the drivers side are sealed/closed in the back of the plug.
AZ does make a 3 wire that is 'sealed' in the rear, for $15.
And I just paid closer attention to the Good Book. Its seem Cadillac indeed 'smooshed' the green wires together in their original socket.

The girl in me really wants the shoes and purse to match.

So I'm going to take a swing at Gary and John tomorrow to see if they have some old 1970 connectors for both lights in stock. Easy enough to test for continuity prior to installation as well as an obvious visual inspection, signs or burn/melting, etc. If neither of those guys have them, they don't exist. And I'll be forced to jury rig some NAPA connectors, at $4 each.

Assuming I'll just follow the back of the new connector as per the Good Book.
Top wire to tan, right wire to green(s)
left wire to ground

And I'll marry the green wires Biblically, stripping back each, tinning, twist together, solder together, THEN
solder to the black wire. The NAPA connector is 14ga, isn't factory 16ga? And that NAPA plug picture is the EXACT SAME picture of the same in ACDelco on Summit Racing... <sigh>

Maybe some non-conductive silicone to 'seal' the back of the socket? anyone?

\m/
Laurie

[Mike Josephic CLC #3877]

Silicone to seal the back would be OK although
mine have been OK without that since 1973.
Your call.

I agree with Bruce -- I've never seen "sealed'
connectors as you describe.  His description is what
I'm familiar with.

Using 14 gauge is always better than 16, so don't
sweat that.

Mike

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Silicone to seal the back would be OK although
mine have been OK without that since 1973.
Your call.

I agree with Bruce -- I've never seen "sealed'
connectors as you describe.  His description is what
I'm familiar with.

Using 14 gauge is always better than 16, so don't
sweat that.

Mike

I'll try to be acrobatic tomorrow and take a pic of my drivers' side sockets.

\m/
Laurie

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Don't forget OxGard on the contacts.  Bruce Roe

Hi Bruce,
Ox Gard and DeOxit are the same product basically.

\m/
Laurie

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

This is the plug that is in my '72 Eldo, and all other GM cars have the same plug.

Ignore the globe and the modification I did to it to attach the Fibre Optic tail so it would catch the globe illumination.

The second picture is the high beam before I changed those to the brighter lights.

These plugs are definitely not sealed in any way.   The only sealed parts was the actual lights, as in Sealed Beams.

Bruce.

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Disregard the socket issue, sorry. Took a 2nd look today, its the front that looks different from what's offered now. And the wires on the sockets on the drivers side were as loose as those on the pax side. Using the sockets that were there, though they all got a good scrub and spray with DeOxit. A picture of the results, new headlight switch at some point this week. Thank you all for indulging me.
\m/
Laurie

[bcroe]

Don't throw away the old switch, you might regret it later.  Bruce Roe

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Don't throw away the old switch, you might regret it later.  Bruce Roe

OK Bruce, I'll keep its a small part.
Why would I need it later though?

\m/
Laurie?

[bcroe]

OK Bruce, I'll keep its a small part.
Why would I need it later though?     Laurie? 

Model unique parts (not fuel pumps, lights, etc) can become
unavailable.  Your replacement might be repairable by means
such as noting similarity to an Olds and combining pieces, or
the replacement might have a worse issue, or some other thing
you do not know yet.  I have sent parts to other owners when I
determine I did not need them any more. 
Bruce Roe

[Highwayman68]

Yes get a box and find a spot on a shelf off of the floor and put all parts that you take off and replace in there. Even the nuts and screws on them might be needed again one day

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Yes get a box and find a spot on a shelf off of the floor and put all parts that you take off and replace in there. Even the nuts and screws on them might be needed again one day

okee doakee

\m/
Laurie