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' 37 LaSalle running board rubber replacement

Started by 1937 LaSalle coupe, June 06, 2018, 11:04:09 AM

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Steve Passmore

#20
Super glue here is the same. Tiny tubes, but we can buy it in the 'Cheap' shops for £1 for 6 tubes and it's only for the edges.  I used about £10 worth. Not the end of the world in the great scheme of things.

I did consider that once Bruce. Devcon makes a product that will do it but the cost would be crippling. I reckoned about 10 tins each board at £60 per tin. It's also very runny so would be difficult on upstands and overflows.
Steve

Present
1937 60 convertible coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe
1941 62 coupe

Previous
1936 70 Sport coupe
1937 85 series V12 sedan
1938 60 coupe
1938 50 coupe
1939 60S
1940 62 coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe x2
1941 61 coupe
1941 61 sedan x2
1941 62 sedan x2
1947 62 sedan
1959 62 coupe

carlhungness

Just heard back from one Canadian firm regarding replacement rubber for my '37 LaSalle and they quoted $2,000-$2,500. I'm sure shipping from US to Canada would be a few hundred dollars so one can figure $3,000 to get the job done I'm guessing.

tozerco



I did consider that once Bruce.

[/quote]

Steve,

Please don't call me Bruce!
John Tozer
#7946

'37 7513
'37 7533

Steve Passmore

Sorry John, I was thinking of someone else. My mind is all over the place at the moment.
Steve

Present
1937 60 convertible coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe
1941 62 coupe

Previous
1936 70 Sport coupe
1937 85 series V12 sedan
1938 60 coupe
1938 50 coupe
1939 60S
1940 62 coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe x2
1941 61 coupe
1941 61 sedan x2
1941 62 sedan x2
1947 62 sedan
1959 62 coupe

carlhungness

 I spoke with Kris Arneson of Running Board Rubber Co.  in British Columbia and his price for a set of '37 board covers is $2,500. He says he made a mold on a mill and spends about 40 hours completing a set of covers. He notes postage to Canada for two boards is usually $125. We chatted about the old Steele covers and Kris told me they were made in China and the quality was not very high at all. He seems to be a pretty knowledgeable fellow as we shared some stories regarding race car fabrication. He did give me a tip that might be useful regarding the stainless trim on our boards.
  Kris is a long time fabricator so we speak the same language and his firm is conversant in metal restoration. He notes he now uses Pro Form Adhesive 773 to attach the studs to the back of the  metal backed stainless trim as opposed to silver soldering. I have long suspected some of the modern adhesives will work as well as silver soldering for such applications as I've had some experience with Hysol and similar products. The 773 is a two part epoxy that mixes itself into the feeder nozzle.
   Overall I think the $2,5000 price is probably pretty fair considering the labor that goes into producing a set of literally reproduction board covers. UPS and FedEx postage is less than I anticipated.
    His phone is 250 569-2337 and I anticipate I'll have him do my boards in the future. He sandblasts the boards (in about an hour he says) so one can't save much on labor if you do it yourself with a scraper and propane torch. Of course he repairs the metal itself where necessary and if yours are rusty expect to pay some additional labor.

DaveZ

Carl,'
Let me know how you make out. I may go down that road too!

Thanks
Regards,
David Zitzmann
1932 345B

35-709

A note about "Super Glue", it is available in 15 gram bottles as well as the little 3 gram tubes.  I find the gel form of Super Glue easier to use.  The larger bottles are available at Lowe's, Home Depot, probably any well stocked hardware store, and even WalMart.
1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

carlhungness

I am probably a year away from doing the running boards as I am attending to power steering and brakes first, but they are high on my list. The $2,700 total is steep but I don't think I'd be satisfied with the elevator rubber. I want the exterior of the car box stock, and it's only money. Will let you all know how I progress.
Carl Hungness

Rich Iannelli

#28
Hi,
After I welded up the holes and cracks, I applied a metal prep and cleaner, then 2 coats of  Por-15 coating. I used the wellwood contact cement, applied 3 coats (wait for each coat to dry) to both the running board and the rubber. I washed the rubber throughly with xylene to prep it for glue. Using wood strips and a aluminum planters pole to fit the inside curved radius of the running board and  many clamps, the boards looked good.
To attach the side stainless steel molding, I bought molding bolts 2336-clp from Restoration Specialities. I cut off the corners so they would slide on easy. I epoxy primed and painted these. I also applied never seize on the threads.
I had to make underside metal with New bolts for the end stainless clam trim.
Check out the photos.
Good luck!
Rich
Aim at nothing and you will hit nothing

Al Goldstone

I would be very leary of the mat company I sent my boards to the 6 years ago. Unable to get them returned to me. I am at a loss what to do. I can’t find any    Even if I could get a pattern so I can make something work. So frustrated.
Al Goldstone
Al Goldstone

carlhungness

You did not mention which company you sent your boards to so how do we know what you are referring to Al? I cannot understand why a re-covering company would want to keep your boards, doesn't make sense.

Roger Zimmermann

Quote from: carlhungness on October 06, 2018, 10:37:06 AM
I cannot understand why a re-covering company would want to keep your boards, doesn't make sense.
Unless they are lost and they don't know how to tell it to the owner; maybe they hope that the owner will forget them or sold the car.
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101