1939 LaSalle - my new purchase

[LaSalle5019]

I just bought this 1939 LaSalle.  It's an older partial restoration and has been for sale a few times over the years and I was looking for a pre-war car that would cruise a bit faster than my 1923 Studebaker Light Six Tourer. It was fairly close to my house so I figured I would go look at it as the owner had passed away and it was in need of a new home before it just rotted away in a storage unit. I'm going to take care of a few items and have some fun driving it without worrying about show car condition. Since I know nothing about the Cadillac and LaSalle cars, I'm sure I'll be posting some questions.

One thing I noticed is that getting it at higher rpms (say over 50 mph in 3rd gear) you can start feeling the engine vibrate so I think step one is a tune up and carb rebuild.
Scott

I got rid of the fuzzy dice....

[gene harl]

I had a 39 lasalle my last year in high school,, I gave  $110. for it in 1951.. I  use to take it to the drag strip,, it would do in the low 70ths... but cant beat the olds 88 ..... it was a great car.....
    Gene Harl     CLC22406

[harry s]

That's a nice car and once tuned and serviced for road will be a joy.    Harry

[LaSalle5019]

Harry, thank you.  I'm looking forward to getting it out on the road.

Gene, based on initial cost of $110, and adjusted to inflation rates, I should have only paid $1067....wow, I really overpaid for the car!

[pmhowe]

I bought my LaSalle in 1961 in Milford, NH for $150. I drove it throughout college. It was a four door sedan. It had been repainted with a brush, but the interior was perfect. It was fun to drive. In Massachusetts winters, with icy roads and sometimes significant snow,  I felt very safe. I loved that car. I'll bet you will love yours, also.

Phil

[Alan Harris CLC#1513]

I have a 1940 5219. They were great cars! You will love it.

[tripwire]

Scott,
Nice looking car.  I hope you have lots of fun with it.  I know I enjoy driving my '40.
Where are you located? 

Wes in VT

[LaSalle5019]

Scott,
Nice looking car.  I hope you have lots of fun with it.  I know I enjoy driving my '40.
Where are you located? 

Wes in VT

Hi Wes,
I live in mid-Michigan.  A bit far from Vermont but close to the Gilmore Car Museum which hosts the Cadillac - LaSalle Club Museum.  Really nice place if you haven't been there.
Scott

[tripwire]

Yeah, I'm no where near Michigan but my nephew is in Allegan.  He's not much of a car guy though.

Does your car need much work or is it good to go?

Wes in VT

[LaSalle5019]

I would say the condition is at least a #3. It is an older restoration but was done well and paint just needs buffed out. Only a couple of scratches in the paint. All the seals are perfect. Underbody/frame looks really nice and is rust free but a little grimy from several years of use with typical seal weapage. Interior is original except for new carpet. Looks like new brake master, wheel cylinders and jounce hoses (brake lines may be new - no rust). Engine compartment is clean. Original wiring is in good shape. Stops great. Clutch is nice. Gauges work. Updated with turn signals. Engine starts and idles well but a little vibration at speeds.

Need to get wipers working and just cleaning up some non-correct issues. My plan is to change the fluids out ( assume regular 90 wt gear lube for trans and 90 wt hypoid axle lube), rebuild carb, replace ignition components, new fuel and hopefully it'll be ready to drive. Just in time for a Michigan winter.....may have to wait until spring

[Alan Harris CLC#1513]

If you change out the gear lube, you need to use the older GL-4 specification instead of the current GL-5. GL-5 can attack the bronze bushings in the transmission and rear. GL-4 is available at NAPA stores and on line.

The steering boxes always leak on these cars. They originally used something called GM steering gear lube, but nobody knows what that was. 90W gear lube tends to leak out too quickly. I use a mixture of STP and regular chassis grease. It lubes the steering box and stays put better than gear oil.

Water pump grease is a white calcium based grease that looks like dirty mayonnaise. It is recommended for the water pump and the distributor shaft. The Lubriplate company sells it from their website. It is not expensive and a can of it will last you several lifetimes.

Good luck and everyone here is very helpful. Don't hesitate to ask.

[tripwire]

Scott,
Come warm / hot weather, don't be surprised if this car vapor locks on you.  It seems to be a very common concern with flathead Cadillacs.  There's lots of discussion on this forum with suggestions for how to get in front of this problem.  A lot of it has to do with ethanol laced fuel and under hood temperatures.   

Good luck,

Wes in VT

[LaSalle5019]

Thanks for all the help and advice.  I did pick up the SAE 90 GL-4 hypoid lube (axle) and GL-1 gear lube (trans). I used the 1200 weight EP Steering Lube from Restoration Supply in my '23 Stude and that seems to work well and stay inside.  It doesn't pour well, more like need to spoon it in but if you heat it enough it will flow a little.  I plan on using that. I do have a container of the water pump grease - I never thought about using on a distributor shaft.

Regarding vapor lock...the previous owner installed a backup electric fuel pump mounted back closer to the tank that was used to solve that issue....separate hidden switch when needed.  I did find that my local gas station carries ethanol free 89 octane unleaded - just pricey at $4.25/gal (not much cheaper than flying into the local airport).

Rebuilt my Carter WDO (92 parts! - crazy little carb) and moving to the ignition system next.  Not much time between work and other projects (wife has me painting and redecorating so we can host Thanksgiving).
Scott

[James Landi]

You mentioned "...some vibration at speed"--- what is the arrangement for universal joints on this car?  I have noted that on newer Cadillacs that used needle (rod like SS) bearings in 4  "cap races" that often seize up when the grease dries up  and causes roughness in the drive train.  Mechanics used to "test" them by attempting to check for lash, but often the only way to know for certain was to take the U joint off, and quite often, if it had overheated, it was a three act opera  to remove them. Happy day,  James