1996 Cadillac Brougham Electronic Level Ride Control Help

[Tonyv_73]

so i know theres probably tons of posts about this, but...
heres my issue...

When I first got my 96 fleetwood I began to notice the compressor clicking on more frequently, so i sent my caddy to get the shocks replaced.  The mechanic said they did need to get replaced, they were rusty and leaking.  He said that the original shocks are different then the replacement ACdelco shocks, the old ones connected one from the other. He had to "T" the air line and split it to each shock.  when I received the car back from being "repaired" I stopped hearing the compressor go off, so i assumed it went off when I wasnt driving the car, I then checked the fuses, and the 30 amp fuse blew.  I replaced it multiple times and it kept blowing.  I sent the car back and they replaced the shocks again, but it did not help. 

I since stopped going to that mechanic, and decided to do some investigating myself.  I saw the work he did, and then examined the compressor.  The rubber lines were deteriorating, and I thought I found the issue.  I replaced the rubber lines, and put a new fuse in.  Then I set up a camera and recorded the car and sped up the footage to see if it was actually raising the rear of the car. NOTHING HAPPENED!!! So I looked around some more and I could hear a hissing coming from above the rear diff. 

Recently, I went to a different mechanic, explained the situation and told him I heard the leak myself coming from the rear.  He said he sprayed all the lines with soapy water and tightened up the connections and said I should be good to go. He tested the shocks and said everything was working properly but the pump does not push out too much air (this is a regular mechanic so i am unsure if he knows how strong the compressor is supposed to be in the first place)

last night I had a full load of friends in the car (6 people total) and Today THE FUSE BLEW AGAIN

WHAT CAUSES THE FUSE TO BLOW?, what else can I do before replacing the entire compressor?

does anyone have any tips or suggestions

I would prefer to keep the level ride setup, but I am considering putting in a valve and manually pumping up the shocks but I do not want to give up just yet

[TJ Hopland]

My GUESS is you have a tired compressor.   It either can't build up the needed pressure so its running longer than it should be and or from running so much with the leaks its got stressed, maybe cooked windings or bearings?

They system isn't monitoring pressure, its checking the actual level so any small differences between the displacement of the actual shocks should not really matter.  Those little compressors can do at least 150 psi when they are in good shape and that should be plenty to get the car level even loaded.   I would guess a typical unloaded pressure to be maybe 90.

Also check the dryer canister thing on the outlet of the compressor.  I have seen those leak and sometimes you can still get those as a replacement part.  Replacement compressors may still be available.  Check a place like rock auto. 

[James Landi]

I entirely agree with Mr. Hopland.... suggestion: Before you purchase a new pump;  if you're handy, disconnect the power to the pump motor  with the car off.  Connect the plus side of your battery directly to the pump.  If the pump motor is stuck, you'll experience a large, hot spark, and the motor will not move.  If the motor is good, you'll hear and feel it engage immediately, and it will begin pumping up the air shocks.   (Don't let it run for more than 15-20 seconds)  If it runs well, then there's some internal electrical problem with the height sensor circuits ... in any case, a direct connection to the pump SHOULD have been step #1 to assess the pump and compressor for functionality.  James

[TMoore - NTCLC]

I am going to tend to agree with Mr. Hopland.  My 1994 Brougham was doing the same thing - cycling frequently, especially with a load in the trunk.  I replaced the shocks with the aftermarket Monroe's and tied the compressor lines in with a "T" - that seemed to fix things, but when I had a load in the trunk, the compressor would run until it "timed out" (I believe there is a limit on how long it will run - or perhaps a circuit breaker), and the rear of the car would still be sagging.  I disconnected the "T" and placed a schrader valve in, and the new shocks held the car at the proper height for weeks.  I checked the lines from the compressor to the shocks and never found any leak.

So, either my compressor just cannot deliver sufficient pressure (worn out), or there is a leak within the compressor or drier that I have not found.  My compressor had started making much more noise towards the end, so I am leaning toward it being a compressor issue.  I do want to address it this winter, but for now, manually topping off the shocks has worked fine.  For now, my schrader valve is located just forward of the driver's rear tire (where the compressor line ties in, but if I am not able to get the factory system back in service, I will route the line to a more permanent and accessible location.

[Maynard Krebs]

Anthony, Are you confident that any and all air leaks within the entire system.. have been found and repaired?   How long will the rear of your car stay up.. after it's parked and shut off?   If the car settles way down within, IDK, an hour or so, I venture to state that there is still an air leak(s) somewhere.

There's a reason why aftermarket rear air shocks are warranted for only a year... versus most others that have 'lifetime' guarantees.   It's because air leaks become notorious in shock absorber / rear suspensions that rely, to some degree, on compressed air.

[Glen]

I don’t know how much this will help, its from a 1977 Cadillac Serviceman.  How much change was there is the ELC by 1996?       

[TJ Hopland]

Its changed slightly but the concepts and basic hardware don't looked to have changed much.  I'm thinking that by 96 the sensor was just a sensor and the 'module' was elsewhere but I could be wrong about that.   One thing they started doing was putting the compressor under the car in front of the left rear wheel.  I'm assuming the Brougham was that way too.  Great location for staying clean and being easy to access for service.

The combo sensor/module always was the weak link in my experience and wasn't easily repaired because it was 'potted'.  Potted is where they pour a protective layer of an often hard epoxy like stuff over the entire circuit board.

I have had very few issues with the compressors but they were not built to run a lot.   From what I remember they don't have anything fancy like ball bearings in them.  Bearings may have even been plastic.   

The manual fill hose kits are sometimes in stock at stores and almost for sure in stock at the regional warehouse and should only be a day away.  Last one I bought I think was about $15, much easier than trying to rig up fittings from the hardware store in most cases.  Maybe install a manual setup to see if they still leak?  If they don't then you know your leak is elsewhere.   

[TMoore - NTCLC]

The compressor for the 93-96 RWD Fleetwood/Broughams is located forward of the Front Driver's side wheel well.  It is accessed by removing the plastic panel under the front of the car.

[cadillactim]

The 93 and maybe even the 94 compressors were located under the car near the rear axle. The 95-96 compressors were moved to the front fender area.

Tim