1969 Deville - Carburetor Rebuild Advice

[69Deville]

Hello all,

Last year, I rebuilt the quadrajet carb for my 69 Deville and the difference in the car's performance was amazing. However, the air horn gasket is now wet with gas near the accelerator pump. I have been doing research and I have seen many people state that it is normal and unavoidable due to warping or the material of the gaskets now. To me, its unacceptable and I am concerned about safety.

So I want to send it in and have it rebuilt professionally including sanding the airhorn down and having the bushings at the throttle shafts redone. The shafts are good, but I do get a stumble if I spray carb cleaner on one of the secondary shafts leading me to believe that the bushing needs to be replaced.

I have come across a few places online that rebuild and I want to see if any of the forum members have recommendations based on experience with the shops.

Thanks,
Dave

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

Dave,
I know there are several "good" places, but Jet Performance in CA has been my rebuilder of choice.
Greg Surfas

[35-709]

Here's another one, depending where you live it might be closer.
https://daytonaparts.com/ 
They do excellent overhauls as well as sell carb. overhaul kits and parts.

[Chuck Swanson]

https://www.superpages.com/bp/dayton-oh/chriss-carb-shop-L2060522664.htm

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Chriss-Carb-Shop/132701446781523

Daytona  actually sent me there as I wanted an original looking carb when done.  Chris was excellent! 
Chuck

[TJ Hopland]

Where abouts in the world are you?   If we know that maybe someone may know a place in your area with a good rep.

[savemy67]

Hello Dave,

I recently rebuilt my '67's Quadrajet.  I found that both the airhorn and the fuel bowl sections of the carb were warped.  However, they were both warped in the same direction and the same amount, so the air horn gasket made a nice seal.

Quadrajet warping is due mostly to overtightening the front mounting bolts.  If your carb is original, then your fuel bowl section should be checked for warping as well as the air horn.  I would consider carefully whether or not to "sand down" only the air horn as this could make matters worse.

I don't know on the '69 if the accelerator pump rod that sticks out of the air horn has a positive seal.  If the cup on the pump plunger is not perfect, and gasoline gets by the cup on each stroke, it may find its way out of the pump well and on to the air horn.  You may be able to see whether or not this is the case by actuating the pump several times.

From what I have experienced and researched, the primary throttle shaft gets far more use than the secondary throttle shaft so the primary shaft area of the throttle body is more likely to be worn.  You can measure the wear of both throttle shafts using a dial indicator.  No need to pay for secondary shaft bushings if they are not needed.

I can't recommend a good rebuilder as I have not used one, but I believe the recommendations of the other posters are useful.  One day the club will have to host an MPG contest so we can compare carb rebuilders  .

Respectfully submitted,

Christopher Winter

[69Deville]

Where abouts in the world are you?   If we know that maybe someone may know a place in your area with a good rep.

I am near San Jose, CA.

[69Deville]

I don't know on the '69 if the accelerator pump rod that sticks out of the air horn has a positive seal.  If the cup on the pump plunger is not perfect, and gasoline gets by the cup on each stroke, it may find its way out of the pump well and on to the air horn.  You may be able to see whether or not this is the case by actuating the pump several times.

From what I have experienced and researched, the primary throttle shaft gets far more use than the secondary throttle shaft so the primary shaft area of the throttle body is more likely to be worn.  You can measure the wear of both throttle shafts using a dial indicator.  No need to pay for secondary shaft bushings if they are not needed.

Thanks for the tips. I checked the accelerator pump and it looks to be dry. The seeping is all along the front of the air horn gasket.

[fishnjim]

without seeing it, sounds to me a new gasket and maybe a little sealer and it should be fine?  Certainly a cheap try before you dump the big bucks.
I was under the impression Daytona had quit doing rebuilds last time I checked, a few years ago, and only offers parts now?   I'll have to check again.   
It's a simple procedure so I don't like to send out.  I have a short list of carb parts suppliers.   A couple gallons of carb cleaner soak and a clean well lit place to work, compressed air, small tools, and an hour or two.  I guess checking, obtaining, and replacing worn parts might be a common issue. 

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

I had that issue with a little seeping at the seam. Then it started to run roughly. Found the float had a crack and the bowl was overfilling. Mite be worth checking that before you spend the $$ to send it out.
Jeff

[35-709]

According to their website ---
"Daytona Parts also offers quality rebuilding services for most carburetors 1932 to present"
 
What they used to do but do not do anymore is concours rebuilds to where the carb looks like it just came out of the factory box.  All components replated as per new, etc., etc., and that apparently just became too time consuming.  Your carb will still come back in super nice condition but not "as new". 

[Chuck Swanson]

According to their website ---
What they used to do but do not do anymore is concours rebuilds to where the carb looks like it just came out of the factory box.  All components replated as per new, etc., etc., and that apparently just became too time consuming.  Your carb will still come back in super nice condition but not "as new".

Yes, and that is the specific reason they recommended Chris's carbs to me   Chuck

[69Deville]

I definitely wanted it replated if I’m going to spend $$$ on a rebuild.

[spolij]

66 deville 429 Are the needle valves supposed to fit sloppy in the plate? Mine are and they don't have much effect on the low idle adjustment. I'd replace them if i could find a new set. Also what does the idle bypass screw do?

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

John, 
Your '66 either has a Carter AFB or a Rochester 4GC, not the Quaadrajet that the '69 uses. The idle air adjustment screws should not be loose. I would suggest you get and follow the factory service manual to adjust the carb (idle air jets, air bypass, throttle blade settings) correctly.  The combination of these three adjustments plus of course correct ignition timing are required to "fine tune" the idle on the 428.
Greg Surfas

[spolij]

Greg it's a Rochester 4GC. I spoke to the owner of Daytona Parts He said the air and fuel needles and the idle by pass screw should not be loose and sloppy. So i ordered a rebuild kit with those parts in it.

[b.dawg]

I used carburetor specialists in georgia. They did very nice work

[69Deville]

So I went with Quadrajet Power LLC. I'm having the carb rebuilt and replated. I should have it back in a month and will post pics and feedback on the rebuild.