News:

Due to a technical issue, some recently uploaded pictures have been lost. We are investigating why this happened but the issue has been resolved so that future uploads should be safe.  You can also Modify your post (MORE...) and re-upload the pictures in your post.

Main Menu

59 doesn´t move in gear any more

Started by Caddie59, March 16, 2019, 04:00:06 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Caddie59

Hello, I´ve rebuilt my 59 engine and did change the tranny oil as well 3 weeks ago, I also replaced the gear pan gasket and cleaned the mesh filter. Then I put in 8 quarts of oil
( some days after being sure that the sealer has been cured) , idling the car for 20 min to brake the cam in and wanted to get out of the garage. The car didn´t move at all. Then I checked the gear oil level, it was too low and I put in about 2quarts. Then the car moved and I got out, did some adjustements, and got back in afterwards. Today, 3 weeks  later, I wanted to get the car out and it didn´t move any more, didn´t take the first or reverse gear. The gear linkage is ok, the gear lever gives a lock feeling, but the car doesn´t move at all. Then I checked the oil level again and found it too high, maybe I´ve put in too much the last time, about 1 quart over max level. But could this be the reason that the car doesn´t move at all? I couldn´t suggest that it´s a bad problem because the tranny did work perfectly all the time and as said, 3 weeks ago the car ran outside and theres was no issue what could cause this behaviour. I saw there are some gearbox specialists in the forum, any help would be highly appreciated...Thanks
P.S. I`m German and couldn´t visit any US specialists...

Caddie59

Yes, the engine was removed and put back. When we started first 3 weeks before, the linkages were not completely correct and I had to readjust them to make the display at the lever show the correct gear. When we started after, as I told above, first the car failed to move  due to low oil level, then I corrected the oil level by 1 quart or so, and the car moved afterwards ok and we got out of the garage for 30 meters and did the camshaft break in. So you can be sure the linkages ar ok.

I´m sure the gear is engaged if I put it in, I think the converter doesn´t work maybe there´s no oil or foamed oil in. I´m no automatic tranny specialist. When I checked the oil level last time, it was much too high. I´ve put 2 quarts in before because it was still too low, even after i added 1 quart first after the first attempt to move the car.

No tranny specialist in here ?

1959Fleetwood

Hello,

When you said you changed the oil of the transmission, you didn't say if you drained the torus as well and how you checked your oil level. First make sure that you have a real 59 transmission by reading the data tag at the rear portion of the the transmission case, the serial number should begin with C59 for series 62 cars or CA59 for commercial chassis.
Refilling a drained transmission with torus has to be by the book i.e : with a non running engine pour 8 qts. / 7,5 ltrs.
into the transmission. Run the engine at 800 rpm for 1.5 minutes with the selector in neutral. Reduce Rpm to slow idle, carburetor of the fast idle cam and engine at operating temperature. Pour another 3.5 qts / 3,3 Ltr. fluid into the transmission. Apply the brake and go with the selector thru all the positions several times to make sure the oil is distributed evenly. Check the oil level with the selector  in the Park position, the oil level should be a 1/4" below the full mark on the dipstick. Make sure that you read the dipstick correct, i can be difficult to determine the level especialy after adding fluid thru the dipstick tube. I Always use Dexron 2D automatic transmission fluid, witch brand doesn't matter. Don't mix this fluid with other types of automatic fluids, it can cause leaking of in-& external seals or disintergrating clutch plates.
Also make sure that you carburator, selector and TV-rod linkage is adjusted correct. I've seen many flaws on customers cars in this matter. Get a original shop manual for proper adjusting procedures.
If you need more help you may contact me at info@mthclassicservices.nl I live in the Netherlands and do have a lot of transmission experience and the original tools to do the job.
Hope this helps,
Matern Harmsel
CLC 15331
Matern Harmsel
CLC # 15331

1941 Cadillac series 6227D
1953 Cadillac series 6237
1959 Cadillac series 6029
1969 Chevrolet ElCamino

savemy67

Hello Caddie59,

There are a few forum contributors who are familiar with the controlled-coupling Hydra-Matic transmissions, such as would have been original equipment in your car.  In addition to Matern in the Netherlands, Roger Zimmerman of Switzerland is another European based resource.

The difficulty in diagnosing your trouble is that there is not enough information with which to formulate a hypothesis.  All we know is that the transmission worked some time in the past, that it was under-filled, then over-filled, and that it went into Drive and Reverse, but now it does not.  These symptoms could have many causes.

From your post it appears that the trouble began as soon as you separated the engine from the transmission.  May I suggest that you use the shop manual to review all the steps in the procedure to remove and replace the engine/transmission - with an emphasis on the separation of the two components.  I would also suggest completely draining the transmission, including the torus, and following the shop manual procedure for draining and refilling.  Hopefully, this will give you a base-line from which to determine what should be next investigated (throttle valve linkage, insufficient pressure, etc.).  If I recall correctly, the throttle valve lever and the shift lever at the side of the case use concentric shafts.  If the linkage was not re-assembled correctly, you may not get reliable engagement of the manual valve.

I know diagnosing trouble like this can be frustrating, but it is important to establish (or re-establish) a base-line, and then investigate one variable at a time.

Respectfully submitted,

Christopher Winter
Christopher Winter
1967 Sedan DeVille hardtop

Dave Shepherd


novetti

Check transmission linkage at the Trans input.

Check yoke/union joints (just in case).

54' Iris Blue (Preservation)
54' Cabot Gray (Restoration)
58' Lincoln Continental Convertible (Restoration)
58' Ford Skyliner (Preservation)

Roger Zimmermann

Quote from: savemy67 on March 17, 2019, 01:52:38 PM
The difficulty in diagnosing your trouble is that there is not enough information with which to formulate a hypothesis.
This is why I did not wrote something: I don't have enough info.
I have the impression that, at cold, if the transmission is overfilled, the car would go forwards and back. When warm, the excess fluid would foam compromising the function..
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

Daryl Chesterman

Mr. Schwarz,

"When we started first 3 weeks before, the linkages were not completely correct and I had to readjust them to make the display at the lever show the correct gear."

In reference to the quote above, I suspicion that your problem is that the shift linkage is not properly adjusted.
The shift linkage is the first thing that should be adjusted, then the gear selector indicator, inside the car, is the last thing to be adjusted to be sure that it coincides with the gear selection that has been made with the transmission shift linkage.  Please follow the linkage adjustment instructions in the order given in the shop manual, and I believe you will cure your problem.

Daryl Chesterman