1967 Convertible - ticking noise

[67caddychi]

I recently purchased a 1967 Deville convertible.  It had a slight ticking noise before the winter season and during the winter I had the leaking heater core and subsequently, the radiator replaced. An oil change was also performed. 

Now that I picked up the car from storage for the summer season, I noticed that the ticking noise is (much) louder and that the acceleration is sluggish/thick.  The car was very "peppy" before the repairs...

As I am a new owner with not much experience I was hoping some of you have some suggestions...From things I've read, I was thinking an exhaust manifold leak? or low oil pressure? but just not sure.   THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ANY ADVICE!

[D.Smith]

Those repairs should have made a difference for the worse.   Providing they put enough oil in.  As always, check your fluids often in any old car.

[67caddychi]

Those repairs should have made a difference for the worse.   Providing they put enough oil in.  As always, check your fluids often in any old car.

I too thought for sure the repairs were going to have it running even better. I checked the fluid levels, (it did need power steering fluid), but every other was fine.

[TJ Hopland]

Wondering if the sluggishness is maybe old gas?   If you didn't seek out non ethanol and or add some storage additives a few months is plenty of time for modern gas to go bad. 

A manifold leak will often change between a hot and cold engine as things expand and contract so that could be a clue.

Does a 67 have a 'heat riser'?  Perhaps its now stuck closed which would increase temps and back pressure which could cause a leak and would also kill performance.     

[67caddychi]

  I too thought for sure the repairs were going to have it running even better. I checked the fluid levels, (it did need power steering fluid), but every other was fine.

Thank you.  I believe it does have a heat riser.  I did not put in an additive for winter, but the gas was used up during repairs (not sure how long it sat before they started the work). I put new gas in upon pick up and drove it about 200 miles this past weekend.  The temperature held steady...My other thought is that they "messed" with the timing or distributor during repairs.

[TJ Hopland]

Did they replace the heater core?   Do you know on that car is that done from inside the cab or is it under the hood?   Either way maybe have a look around for loose or pinched wires and hoses.    67 was when things started to get more complex as far as wires and hoses running all over the place.  Nothing like the 80's but still one wire or hose could cause the performance issues you describe. 

What is the condition of the hoses?   Do they seem fairly soft and flexible still?

Anyone know that the choke setup is on these?  Maybe the 'heater stove' just happened to rot out and its now causing the exhaust leak and the choke not to be working correctly?   Later it was a well plug in the intake with the coil sitting in the well and a rod to the carb.   I know other GM's in that era had a tube that looped down in the exhaust crossover.  These it was common to have them rot out with age. 

[67caddychi]

Did they replace the heater core?   Do you know on that car is that done from inside the cab or is it under the hood?   Either way maybe have a look around for loose or pinched wires and hoses.    67 was when things started to get more complex as far as wires and hoses running all over the place.  Nothing like the 80's but still one wire or hose could cause the performance issues you describe. 

What is the condition of the hoses?   Do they seem fairly soft and flexible still?

Anyone know that the choke setup is on these?  Maybe the 'heater stove' just happened to rot out and its now causing the exhaust leak and the choke not to be working correctly?   Later it was a well plug in the intake with the coil sitting in the well and a rod to the carb.   I know other GM's in that era had a tube that looped down in the exhaust crossover.  These it was common to have them rot out with age.

They did replace the heater core as it was leaking at the end of the season.  They found they needed to replace the radiator in conjunction. The heater core was accessed through the interior (dash removal).  The hoses are decent and I believe they did replace some...my plan is to address the rest. 

The good news is that the car does not run hot, it starts easily and it does not hesitate or backfire...just sluggish compared to pre-repairs (and of course the louder tick).

[MikeLawson]

I am in a similar circumstance as you. A few months back I bought a 1967 DeVille convertible and I've been working on it continually since then. My car is a really nice all original example with 45,000 miles but it still has many "opportunities" for maintenance and repairs.

Your car definitely has a heat riser valve and it is probably stuck in one position unless you are really lucky. Mine was rusted fast and in order to access it, I had to take off the exhaust crossover pipe. The heat riser valve broke into 5 pieces when I tried to remove it so I replaced it with a non-functional spacer plate purchased from a CLC member.

You may want to check to see if the vacuum line from your carburetor to the distributor vacuum advance is connected.  That could be a possible cause of your sluggish acceleration.

To find the source of your ticking sound, you may want to use a mechanics stethoscope or even a hollow metal tube placed around the engine. You be amazed how well the sound can be transmitted up through a simple tube.

The previous owner of my car had the heater core replaced so I was fortunate in that respect but there is a great number of vacuum lines in that area if you have the automatic climate control system in your car. Make sure it is all properly reconnected or you will have vacuum leaks.

Be sure to get yourself a shop manual for your '67, it will soon become your best friend whenever you need to work on the car.

[TJ Hopland]

Here is a great tool to have for all sorts of automotive stuff including checking and testing vacuum lines and devices.   They are cheap now days.   This one happens to be harbor freight for around $25 but most parts stores have them. 


https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-63391.html

[67caddychi]

I am in a similar circumstance as you. A few months back I bought a 1967 DeVille convertible and I've been working on it continually since then. My car is a really nice all original example with 45,000 miles but it still has many "opportunities" for maintenance and repairs.

Your car definitely has a heat riser valve and it is probably stuck in one position unless you are really lucky. Mine was rusted fast and in order to access it, I had to take off the exhaust crossover pipe. The heat riser valve broke into 5 pieces when I tried to remove it so I replaced it with a non-functional spacer plate purchased from a CLC member.

You may want to check to see if the vacuum line from your carburetor to the distributor vacuum advance is connected.  That could be a possible cause of your sluggish acceleration.

To find the source of your ticking sound, you may want to use a mechanics stethoscope or even a hollow metal tube placed around the engine. You be amazed how well the sound can be transmitted up through a simple tube.

The previous owner of my car had the heater core replaced so I was fortunate in that respect but there is a great number of vacuum lines in that area if you have the automatic climate control system in your car. Make sure it is all properly reconnected or you will have vacuum leaks.

Be sure to get yourself a shop manual for your '67, it will soon become your best friend whenever you need to work on the car.

THANK YOU!  I will try this next weekend. And have them check the heat riser valve.

[Bobby B]

  It had a slight ticking noise before the winter season. An oil change was also performed.  I noticed that the ticking noise is (much) louder.....

Hopefully the previous owner didn't have an additive in there to thicken it up (or super heavy weight oil ), to mask a known problem. Just out of curiosity, did he have a legitimate reason for selling the car? I've seen this scenario too many times with rears and transmissions also. Hopefully something minor..
                                                                Bobby

[67caddychi]

Hopefully, the previous owner didn't have an additive in there to thicken it up (or super heavyweight oil ), to mask a known problem. Just out of curiosity, did he have a legitimate reason for selling the car? I've seen this scenario too many times with rears and transmissions also. Hopefully something minor...
                                                                Bobby

Seller was a widow and the car seems to have been sitting for a while.  I did think about the new oil - I don't know how old the oil was before my change out...it could have been years and thickened up.  Hopefully, she was not the proverbial little old lady driving it to church on Sundays ;0) 

[caddydaddy1960]

Hello,

Congrats on your new Caddy!  I have a 1966 Sedan deVille and also had a ticking noise.  It turned out to be the fuel pump. The pump eventually failed and once it was replaced, the ticking noise was gone. You might want to check yours out.

Good luck,

Michael Heinz, Director
West Michigan CLC

[67caddychi]

Hello,

Congrats on your new Caddy!  I have a 1966 Sedan deVille and also had a ticking noise.  It turned out to be the fuel pump. The pump eventually failed and once it was replaced, the ticking noise was gone. You might want to check yours out.

Good luck,

Michael Heinz, Director
West Michigan CLC

Thank you Michael.  I will take a look at the fuel pump.

[67caddychi]

Here is a great tool to have for all sorts of automotive stuff including checking and testing vacuum lines and devices.   They are cheap now days.   This one happens to be harbor freight for around $25 but most parts stores have them. 


https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-63391.html

Thank you for this information.

[Delo427]

Did they put a zinc additive in when they did the oil change? You could have a lifter going away. Could also just be an exhaust leak.

[67caddychi]

Did they put a zinc additive in when they did the oil change? You could have a lifter going away. Could also just be an exhaust leak.

They did not say that the put in the zinc additive and I did not ask as I was not aware that it may be necessary.

[Scot Minesinger]

Probably a good idea to remove the valve covers and take a look. 

My 1970 Cadillac suffered a ticking noise and it was a bad rocker arm on cylinder #7 intake valve.  Had to remove the head to make the repair.  Took it to a machine shop and the entire cost parts, machine shop and gaskets was about $200.  My labor was of course free to me.  Also completed a few might as wells too.

Don't drive it too much until you get to the root of the problem.

[67caddychi]

Probably a good idea to remove the valve covers and take a look. 

My 1970 Cadillac suffered a ticking noise and it was a bad rocker arm on cylinder #7 intake valve.  Had to remove the head to make the repair.  Took it to a machine shop and the entire cost parts, machine shop and gaskets was about $200.  My labor was of course free to me.  Also completed a few might as wells too.

Don't drive it too much until you get to the root of the problem.

Thank you Scot.  I am concerned about driving it until the issue is resolved...especially since it seems to have gotten worse over the winter.

[Tom Forsberg]

One other crazy thing I have experienced.   Run the car at night and look for a bad plug wire grounding out on something.  I had a plug wire once that had been rubbing on the rocker cover and it was ticking...I was also having bad performance because of the shorting out of the plug wire.  It’s easy to see at night or just follow each wire and make sure it’s not bad.   Good luck!