1932 Cadillac V16 scale model

[Roger Zimmermann]

The rear of the tire is almost finished. As you can see, the shape was done with a cold chisel. When I did the picture, the lathe was not running because  both hands are needed to work correctly with that tool. I'm using the slowest RPMs; with the correct angle and position, the quantity of metal which can be removed is impressive.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The tire pattern main element is ready. Most probably, by looking at the attached picture, you will not understand why the front of the tire has this strange shape. This is my way to add the large white wall: it will be a separate element pushed into the black rubber. I did the same with the Mark II's tires with one major exception: the tire's name will be on the white wall. For the Mark II, I did a negative mold and I could directly do the white elements. As I cannot engrave the tire's name into the brass, I will to make a positive form; with that done, a negative mold can be created. It's just one step more...
For the moment, the next step is to add the profile on the thread.

[Roger Zimmermann]

To do the thread, I choose to fit 7 bands, even if the Firestone has 8. Why? Because I have to split my tire in the middle; the separation line will be on top of the middle band, which is easier to clean.
I cut 7 bands a bit longer than the circumference to be on the safe side. I did 3 assemblies by soft soldering twice two bands and one assembly with 3 band. This will shorten the machining a lot.
By looking at the original tire's thread, I saw that the zig-zag is not at 90°, but approximately at 120°. The milling tool on the picture as an angle of about 110°, good enough for my purpose.
As the head stock from the lathe was in the way, I had to remove it. Of course, I can only machine the brass which is secured with the jaws. After about 45mm, I have to position anew the assembly, taking care that the pitch is still correct.

[Roger Zimmermann]

When I began the planning for the "mother" tire, I felt that the zig-zag thread was a good idea. Now, I hate it! The pitch was small: 1 mm. The tire without thread was not flat, but convex. At first, I soft soldered the middle band. As the brass piece is rather heavy, it took a long time to heat the brass to solder the band.  Once soldered, I had to remove the excess solder which was into the zig-zag, which took a long time. Then came the positioning of the next band. Ideally, the spikes should face the recess from the first band. As the milling was not creating a 100% exact pitch, I began to get in trouble, plus the fact that the next band is slightly shorter due to the shape of the tire. The first two bands positioned at each side from the first one were not too problematic but the next two were that bad that I did 3 pieces for each trying to have the correct figure. Finally, both at the outside of the tire have been soldered without looking too much at the other ones, except for the spacing.
The picture is showing the master tire after the last soldering operation; the plier on the right was used to rotate the tire during the soldering. I will now have to clean the assembly and trim the sides, with the hope that the thin bands will stay soldered.
In conclusion, not my best tire pattern.

[Ralph Messina CLC 4937]

Hi Roger,

Looking at the male zig-zag ribs, I don't notice the miss alignment. Given the tread design selected, I can't see how anyone could get the pitch in perfect alignment. Bending the straight zig-zag strips was sure to distort them and alter the pitch along the outer circumference. Can you rig up a test to mold part of the tire and assess the tread as a finished, molded part?

By the way, what you've  done with the tread so far  is amazing.

Ralph

[Roger Zimmermann]

Well, Ralph, it's hard to notice the misalignment on a picture, even by looking at the tread without a magnifying glass! As the process to make a mold part is long, I will not do that, just continue the process.

Finally, the tread is not too bad. As for most every bias-ply tires, there are ribs on the side. When looking at the Firestone picture, the side ribs are in phase with the zig-zag from the tread. I decided that it would be foolish to attempt it; I'm just doing about 160 indentations without trying to match the zig-zag; there are about 215 at the outer circumference.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The main job of the brass tire is over. As I wrote earlier, the manufacturer's name will be on the white part of the tire. I'm happy with the Good Year tires I have on my models, negligible wear, not noisy, no cracks and still supple after all those years. I will however change the manufacturer by using the Firestone name.
I had the foolish idea to make separate letters in brass; some would be easy (i, t, n); e, s would be more difficult. I began with the "F" just to see that the crisp angles are something I cannot do with the tools I have. An engraver could probably do them all, but it's a profession for itself with very specific tools I don't have.
I will therefore come back to the old method I used with success: paint.
I'll need now material to continue with the tires: silicone and some brass to do the mold for the white wall. I will not bother suppliers before the end of the year; I'll look next year for that missing material.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Sometimes it's better to put something on side and continue with it later. It's now happening with the tires, I will resume this adventure later.
As there are still plenty things to do, I'm not "jobless"! I'm continuing with the distributor. There will be plenty to do...I began with the support. I wondered first why this support was so long; after a while I understood that a shorter support would interfere with the fan support. Fortunately, my dimension estimates/calculated are not too far away, there is just enough space between both supports.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The ignition system from those engines were a bit different than the ones from the fifties-seventies. The distributor houses indeed two ignition systems, one for each bank; two ignition coils are also used. Once the ground setting was done with the pointer at the flywheel, it was also possible to advance or retard the timing in degrees thanks to a scale attached to the distributor support. A pointer, integrated to the distributor itself allowed to get the desired setting as shown on the first picture.
With 16 ignition wires, it was certainly easy to have a cable mess. To avoid it, an organizer was integrated at the base of the distributor. From there, the wires went into a tube and emerged from it at the desired location.
The organizer and the lower plate locking the distributor were chromed and assembled with screws or rivets. To avoid the proliferation of small parts, those items on the model are soft soldered to the main body; this assembly will be chromed and what originally was not chromed will be painted.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The last tiny parts to the distributor were added yesterday, just at time for the year's end. It was however too late to make the update, but today is an appropriate day for that: it let time to evaporate the alcohol absorbed the evening before!
The distributor cap is attached to the body with two strong springs. My rendering of that is rather crude from very near, but by looking at a distance the illusion is almost perfect.
Like all distributor caps, the central plot is from the ignition coil's secondary circuit. On V-12 and V-16, there is a second plot for the other coil. Under the cap, there is a ring to conduct the voltage at the appropriate spark wire via a specific rotor.
On the real distributor, there is an oiling provision on the side for the cam. This is also replicated on "my" distributor, as well as both contacts on the side going to the primary circuit of the coils.

[Roger Zimmermann]

At the end of the year, I did both ignition coils and their support. Those rather easy parts were finished when I began to look at restored cars. Something catch my eye: the ignition coils are not behind the fan, they are located at the the radiator!
The coils were wrongly installed on the fan support when the frame and engine came to the Netherland to be restored. As Johan did pictures from all the elements before he began the work, I was fooled by those pictures!
Those coil's supports will be removed and, in due time, the coils added to the radiator.

[Roger Zimmermann]

When I don't know how to do a part or no envy about it, I do continue with something else until either I don't know with what to continue or the desire to have an element finished is haunting me!
The brushes covering bands for the generator and starter motor is a perfect example. It seems easy to do, but indeed I pushed back their fabrication. It took me a while to do the first one because I was not at all motivated. Finally, the task was not so bad: a band of brass 0.01mm thick, with one rolled end, then a small attaching latch soft soldered at the right place and voilà! At first, I intended to rivet the latch like the original parts but opted for the soldering. Less chance for a disaster doing so!
The second band came not so well as the first one, but still usable. Those parts will be chromed.
By pulling at the latch, the band can be removed like the original one.

[Philou]

Hy Roger

I'm here to follow this exciting construction...
We are entering 2022, which means that your V 16 is approaching 90 years old!
Be careful when you connect the ignition coils, it can shake a little...
Same for generator...

Friendships,

Philippe

[Roger Zimmermann]

Hi Philippe
No problem, I'm wearing thick gloves!
It's time for the apéro, santé!

[Roger Zimmermann]

When the band for the generator was installed and the gen again on the engine, I realized that it was time to do the air intake duct. Therefore the generator was removed again, which requires the removal of the intake/exhaust manifolds and the water pump. As I still don't have water in the engine, there is no mess with the cooling fluid.
The original set up has provision to remove the water pump actuating shaft; my reproduction shaft does not have it.
That rather small part was not easy to do because nothing is flat to squeeze it in a vice; the fingers acted like a vice; some are still sore! The screen at the air intake is too coarse; I'm not sure if a finer mesh is available, I doubt it.
To really finish the generator and accessories, I milled the exhaust tube to shape the hexagon at the small end.

[dadscad]

Hello Roger! Fantastic detail on the motor. You didn't mention what mesh you were considering for the intake screen except that it was too coarse. Would the brass or stainless screen in a coffee filter, be too coarse? I really enjoy watching the parts come together!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks for the comments, David! About the mesh: from another forum, I got a link to buy very fine mesh in stainless steel. I have no idea what for screen is in a coffee machine...The wife has one which is still functioning, I cannot begin to take it apart, she could be angry!

[dadscad]

LOL! Yes, I bet she would be angry if you were to steal the filter from her coffee maker! I was thinking about a replacement #4 cone filter that was made with brass or stainless screen that you could cut pieces from. Steering clear from the one in your kitchen! My Cuisinart coffeemaker came with one.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The coarse screen issue will be solved thanks to a member from the AACA forum. He ordered a sample (that company is not shipping to Switzerland) and will send it to me. The pitch is 200 wires/inch and the material is stainless steel.
Thanks also to Bruce and to Johan who offered a bit from the screen they have, but too coarse.

There are still element to be done to the engine. This time, I did the vacuum pump and the fitting for the oil lines. One is going to the oil filter and the other line to the oil pressure indicator.
The fake screws to the vacuum pump will be "installed" during the final assembly. The pump will be black, the crews will be painted silver. Indeed they should be chromed; I'm sure silver paint will be OK.
The studs at the fitting have not the same length on the picture. This will also be corrected during the final assembly.
Next step: the oil filter.

[Roger Zimmermann]

As stated in my previous post, I intended to do the oil filter. Fine, but it is attached at the intermediate engine support! Due to the tight space between the calculated diameter of the filter and the frame, I have to do the engine supports first. As usual, it's a casting element and not in line with the hole into the frame...