News:

Due to a technical issue, some recently uploaded pictures have been lost. We are investigating why this happened but the issue has been resolved so that future uploads should be safe.  You can also Modify your post (MORE...) and re-upload the pictures in your post.

Main Menu

Spark plug condition ? breather cap cleaning? and fuel filter bowl removal?

Started by Glaswegian, August 02, 2019, 09:44:09 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Glaswegian

I just got delivery of a load of service items from Rock Auto this week, some of which to change myself and some for my mechanics to use when I get it over there. I hope maybe 10 days and I'll have it on the road with plates  ::) engine is the 390 in a 62

So, I removed the spark plugs, the one under the generator is a pain to get out ! :-X and they look ok to me, just old? You guys can probably tell, I guess, just by looking if the engine is burning fuel ok? Any thoughts? Fitted new platinum bosch plugs.

I also had a look inside the breather cap with the mesh inside, eek, full of crud, oil mixed with dust ! Don't think its been cleaned for a very long time and no sure what I should use to clean it out?  manual does not say what exactly what you should use, just to put some engine oil in afterwards. White spirit, Methalated spirit, soapy water ? any trusted methods?

Air filter container was dirty too, cleaned it all out, gave it a prime then new paint inside and out. New filter ready to go !

I got a few fuel filters to change the old looking one inside the glass bowl. It was not visible through the glass untill I cleaned it, but the nut underneath is solid and a little rusty. I have sprayed a bit of WD40 on it to help it loosen, but will not be coming off with fingers, what can I use to turn it, so awkward to get at and my finger grip is very poor. When I do eventually get it off and hve put the new filter inside, should I put fuel back in the bowl before reattaching it ?

Mechanics will do the oil change, flush the radiator etc and fill with new anti freeze, plus check everything over after cleaning it up underneath. Guessing front end kit will be next big purchase.

Thank you for any replies  ;)


Dan LeBlanc

I would continue to run the spark plugs you have.  They look fine.  I tried Bosch platinum in my first 62 and it wasn't happy.  I went back to a copper plug and it ran fine afterwards.

As far as the oil breather cap goes, soak it in kerosene and blow it out gently with some compressed air and re-oil afterwards.
Dan LeBlanc
1977 Lincoln Continental Town Car

marty55cdv

  Agree with Dan , don't put in Platinum of any brand especially Bosch, their copper plugs are fine, but the ones you took out appear to be fine.
Marty Smith
  CLC #22760
41 60 Special http://bit.ly/1Wm0GvT
55 CDV http://bit.ly/1G933IY
56 Fleetwood
1958 Extended Deck http://bit.ly/1NPYhGC
1959 Fleetwood  http://bit.ly/1OFsrOE
1960 Series 62 Coupe
1960 Sedan DeVille  4 window Flattop
63 Fleetwood http://bit.ly/1iSz17J
1964 Eldorado http://bit.ly/1Wm17GA  (Living in California now)
1988 EBC http://bit.ly/1iSACKz

Daryl Chesterman

Your AC Delco spark plugs look like brand new and they are the factory recommended spark plug for your engine!  There is absolutely no reason to change them.  Check the electrode gap for .035" and reinstall them.  In a properly tuned engine, the ceramic insulator will have a light tan color to it.  If the insulator is black, and the black is soft, such that you can easily rub it off, that means the fuel mixture is running rich, or you are doing a lot of short trip driving and not allowing the engine enough time to burn off the rich fuel mixture.  If you have an engine that is burning oil, the deposits on the ceramic will be black and hard.

On your fuel filter, you might have to use a pair of pliers to loosen the bail nut.  When you get the bowl off, check the condition of the rubber sealing ring that the glass seals against.  It should be pliable.  If it is hard, replace it, as it will not seal tight without over-tightening the bail nut.  If you use a pliers to tighten the bail nut, I caution you to not over-tighten it, because you may warp the housing that the bail attaches to.  It is not necessary to prefill the glass bowl when installing the new fuel filter.   If you have recently had the engine running, the float bowl of the carburetor will have enough gas in it to run long enough to refill the glass filter bowl.  If you need a new rubber bowl gasket, these gaskets (and filter assemblies) were used on older farm tractors, and you can probably find one at a farm implement dealer.  NAPA, in the USA, is where I got a new one for my 1959 Cadillac, and yours is the same.  If you need a NAPA part number, I can get it for you.

I use gasoline to clean the breather cap.  Gasoline is not recommended in the service manual due to its flammability, but it is a good solvent that will readily dissolve the dirty, oily residue that is on the mesh, and does not leave an oily residue on the outside that will attract dust and look bad.  Kerosene, or parts washing solvent, is probably the recommended liquid to use to clean the breather.

Daryl Chesterman

Glaswegian

Thank you guys for the replies and Daryl for the detailed info on the bowl.

I'm in Scotland so I can't get anything local. Makes me a bit worried to take the bowl off now as I expect that seal to be required. Everything else that is rubber seems to have been replaced or still needs replacing, the new fuel filters say to throw away the one on the pole inside.

Re the cap, you could not even see the mesh inside for the dirt, it was that clogged, but will clean it properly now I have a method.

I may just clean up those plugs and reinstall them then ! I had already fitted the new ones thinking I was doing the right thing replacing them. I've not done any work on a car for about 35 years so taking a bit of getting used to  ::)

Glaswegian

Had a look at napa site, shows 2 filter types, I already got a couple of the one which shows no rubber gasket, says it's for AC cars, which mine is.

How does having AC affect that ? is the bowl bigger ?

Think I may have a rubber washer from all the plumbing fixtures I've accumulated over the years which might fit if the old one is goosed.


fishnjim

I prefer "kerosene" for soaking dirty oily engine parts.   Not flammable(combustible) and cheap.  Won't eat the paint.   Plus you can burn waste in a pan or heater when it's over and not have a huge fire/health hazard.   Caution; black smoke open burning.   
If crankcase vapors caused the breather to clog, it may need compression test/rings.   I suspect it's just accumulated due to age, wash oil had gummed.   But could indicate the condition of the inside of the motor - sludge accumulation.   Some of the early oils had a loads of parafins, and they made tons of sludge.   I'd pull a valve cover and inspect.
Agree plugs OK, nearly unused.   They can be tested.   A lot will depend on the fuel you use if you need to modify the plugs.   Usually the factory spec'ed is best.   I prefer to change the wires when I replug first time.   That way you know how many hours on them.
PS: one of the old tricks-O-trade is to replace the spark plugs before you sell it, that way no easy way to tell condition of motor.   Not saying the case, just something to be wary of/verify the story.
The filter bailwire, screw and glass should be available, if damaged.   Won't find exact but will fit.   Sounds like may want to check/clean the rest of fuel system and carb.   
Typical, stuff for old cars.

Glaswegian

This car lived and or stored off a dirt road somewhere, so much dusty dirt everywhere ! It stuck to everything oily and managed to get inside too. It has all wiped off but built up on anything sticky, hence the clogged mesh methinks. Air filter was clean "ish" but old, so replaced.

Got the bowl nut freed after a lot of hard work this morning, the rubber gasket was soft but torn so could not reuse. I searched for a replacement but only found a plastic washer the correct size which I have temp put in place until I can pop into a plumbers merchants and pick a rubber one up. The size fits plastic waste pipes we use here, expect I will get one free ! just did not have one in correct diameter to hand.

The old filter had a round rusty metal dome with a similar style but paper filter must be inside dome. Some dirt was in the bottom, but now see through and the fuel I put back in the bowl ( I wanted to see if it evaporated ) still seems at the same level after about 4 hrs.

I just cleaned up the plugs and refitted them, will keep the bosch ones as spares and when I know the car is running well may change them to see what difference it makes.

Crossing my fingers the new registration arrives this week after an inspection was carried out on Thursday to check the info I supplied on the paperwork. Inspector could not find the engine number and I was not going to show him where to look  >:D

Very frustrating seeing it sitting outside without being able to drive it...

Daryl Chesterman

I would be reluctant to use a rubber gasket that is normally used in plumbing, because it might not be resistant to gasoline and might become really soft and leak gas and possibly cause a fire--something you do not want to have happen!!!  You may be in Scotland, but surely you have some agriculture implement dealers that would have a source for that gasket??  Something called a "sediment bowl" was used on many tractors, combines, or other motorized equipment in the 1930's to 1960"s, that had the glass bowl with a fine brass screen and the appropriate bowl gasket.

The difference in A/C fuel filter and no A/C was that the A/C filter housing had the top outlet that was a return for the excess fuel to return to the fuel tank, helping to keep the fuel cooler to help stop vapor lock.  I haven't explored the internal plumbing of the A/C filter housing to see why the filters need to be different, but it has to do with the fuel return to the tank.  Why a bowl gasket is supplied with the non A/C filter and not the A/C filter, I don't know.

The NAPA number for the bowl gasket is S65544.

Daryl Chesterman

The Tassie Devil(le)

I am with Daryl,

Use Neoprene instead of Rubber.

Sheets of it is available anywhere, and simply cutting out a ring from the sheet will work wonders, and cheap.

Bruce. >:D   
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

Glaswegian

Had a little google for sediment bowl filters, tractor folk do stock them but seem to be made of cork !

I will get something proper, Viton it seems is the correct material not neoprene but that's another story  ;)

The link for the napa site says not right seal for 1962 car and cost was more than wrong filter including right seal  ::) Will look at rock auto when I can get on the site to see what they supply. Delivery and tax even on small items is expensive so expect will source something here.

I am going to visit USA at some point soon so will bring back front end kit to save the shipping costs which is same as a flight there and back  :-X Will ask anyone I know who is visiting to pick up bits and pieces for me too over time.

Thanks guys  ;)

INTMD8

When I've tried using the rubber fuel filter washers on my 59 they would spray fuel all over the place no matter how tight I made it.

I've been using the cork gasket that was on the car when I found it for years now with no issues. 

Daryl Chesterman

Jim, you may have one of the housings that someone over-tightened the bail nut and warped the housing.  The cork gasket will compress more easily than the "rubber" one and gives you a good seal in spite of the warp.

Daryl Chesterman

Glaswegian

Got a couple of the cork gaskets, fitted one today and hope there will be no evaporation. Only tightened with my fingers as per instructed, no pliers  ;)